New to Motorized Bike Community, have a slight problem

I still think u should loosen the pivot bolt and slide the tensioner up the slot untill u achieve proper tension. And then re tighten the pivot bolt. That is assuming u can tighten the pivot bolt and it will still pivot of course!


yeah give it more leverage so it can twist into the wheel... it is nothing more then a stock tensioner with a added bolt and spring and a chunk of barstock. It is WELL know that the mount can and has twisted into the wheel and destroyed it
 
I still think u should loosen the pivot bolt and slide the tensioner up the slot untill u achieve proper tension. And then re tighten the pivot bolt. That is assuming u can tighten the pivot bolt and it will still pivot of course!

Problem is , you cant tighten the pivot bolt and have it pivot, and I will try the zip ties and get back on here. thanks again
 
Darn, they should have included a shoulder on that bolt like there is on the stock pulley.

You can move up the pivot arm and hand tighten and it will stay, but once you move the bike, it falls down. I wish there was a way to make like slots instead of a whole infinite adjustments. If I could forge my own steel I would
 
Picture worth thousand words

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Hope this helps you with your problem. Use a nyloc nut on your pivot bolt so it won't unscrew and fall off when you ride.
 
Hello all, I recently purchased a 66cc kit from bikeberry.com, I have mounted it, and did the standard replacement of nuts and bolts. I bought a spring loaded chain tensioner off of Ebay, and it mounts on the "swingarm" ( I dont know the proper name, the horizontal bar that comes from the "dropout area"). Only problem is that when I pedal and then attempt to start the engine, the chain gets stuck inside the clutch cover, due to it having too much slack. I tried the tensioner that came with the kit, but I ended breaking two spokes so I said screw it. View attachment 50884View attachment 50885View attachment 50886


You could try my tensioner out! I have sent a few to Fort Myers, you may have already bought one, lolIMG_0416.jpg
 
This is very simple. Loosen the bolts that hold the tensioner in place on the frame, as well as the bolt that holds the strap for the spring. Slide the tensioner closer to the rear wheel as close as it can go without having to push too hard. Tighten the bolts back up. Check the slack in the chain by moving the top part of your chain up and down with your finger. If you can see the plastic idler wheel moving up and down when you do this, then the spring is picking up the slack in the chain and you're good to go. Tighten all the bolts back down securely and you're done.
 
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