BigBlue
Active Member
I have a 72cc Zenoah 2 stroke leaf blower engine that I'd like to use on my project. The engine is brand new and is rated at 4.6hp. I added the 54mm air filter. The intake tubing was rotated 90 degrees.
Here's the engine:
I need to mount a clutch to the flywheel and make an adapter plate, so I can mount the engine to my Staton gearbox. This is similar to what I'd like to do. I found this 72cc project from GoPed Nation. I am not going to use the gearbox or relocate the ignition coil, as posted in the 2nd picture. The GoPed nation poster also removed the bottom half of the engine mount which I don't plan on doing.
If possible, I'd like to keep the factory ignition, so I don't have to have a battery powered ignition and/or alternator to charge the batteries.
What I propose doing is making a spacer to add onto the face of the existing flywheel. I'd machine the lip off the face of the original flywheel, so that the adapter and flywheel have maximal surface contact. On the spacer, I'd drill and tap 4 holes that would line up with the existing holes on the original flywheel. I am just not sure how many threads would be left after machining the lip. I would then segment the flywheel circumference into 3rds. I'd then have the spacer tack welded onto the original flywheel with a Tig welder. The length and place to weld the spacer and flywheel would be marked for the welder.
The reason to divide the circumference into 3rds would be to alleviate any balance issues and minimize contact with the flywheel magnets. My concern is that the welding may damage the magnets. Welding a continuous weld around the circumference would be preferred. If the magnets aren't damaged by the heat and only need to be re-epoxied, I may follow that route.
By the way, does anyone know the width of the flywheel magnets and a source to purchase?
If not feasible, I'll machine a new flywheel with the proper depth and use an electronic ignition with dual pickups. I found CDI unit from D&B Engines that uses less power and has a built in voltage regulator: http://www.dandbengines.com/ignitions.html
Chris
AKA: BigBlue
Here's the engine:
I need to mount a clutch to the flywheel and make an adapter plate, so I can mount the engine to my Staton gearbox. This is similar to what I'd like to do. I found this 72cc project from GoPed Nation. I am not going to use the gearbox or relocate the ignition coil, as posted in the 2nd picture. The GoPed nation poster also removed the bottom half of the engine mount which I don't plan on doing.
If possible, I'd like to keep the factory ignition, so I don't have to have a battery powered ignition and/or alternator to charge the batteries.
What I propose doing is making a spacer to add onto the face of the existing flywheel. I'd machine the lip off the face of the original flywheel, so that the adapter and flywheel have maximal surface contact. On the spacer, I'd drill and tap 4 holes that would line up with the existing holes on the original flywheel. I am just not sure how many threads would be left after machining the lip. I would then segment the flywheel circumference into 3rds. I'd then have the spacer tack welded onto the original flywheel with a Tig welder. The length and place to weld the spacer and flywheel would be marked for the welder.
The reason to divide the circumference into 3rds would be to alleviate any balance issues and minimize contact with the flywheel magnets. My concern is that the welding may damage the magnets. Welding a continuous weld around the circumference would be preferred. If the magnets aren't damaged by the heat and only need to be re-epoxied, I may follow that route.
By the way, does anyone know the width of the flywheel magnets and a source to purchase?
If not feasible, I'll machine a new flywheel with the proper depth and use an electronic ignition with dual pickups. I found CDI unit from D&B Engines that uses less power and has a built in voltage regulator: http://www.dandbengines.com/ignitions.html
Chris
AKA: BigBlue