Question about sealing carburetor to the intake

A couple of o-ring's solves all of the potential air leak issues between the NT carburettor and intake tube.
A cursory check of the clamping system revealed an o-ring to be the solution - cheap, simple and effective.

How many threads have been rehashed and remade over idle problems and transition problems with the NT carburettor - hmmm, maybe air leaks might be playing a good part - i wonder why; could those 4 slots have something to do with it...
 
HeadSmess,Thanks for your input.The common sense approach to things is the key.I'll try to run without o-ring first ,before I get auto grade.
Sometimes these forums & the "World Wide Web"surfing tends to flood our R&D ideas with too much info.
I installed o-ring,hardware store grade,in my carb from the start to prevent any leak issues,the typical "if it's not broken dont fix it syndrome,now it seems like it was all just a waste of time and money,I dont have much of either.In the long run,you really cant put a price tag on learning.I'm sure I'll find a use for those o-rings in the future.Hey, I'll be back in a sec...

*pedals down to the freaking clamp store>>>>>>>>>>>>>>zoom
 
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There is a very simple lesson to be learned here, and I've already said it but I will say it again. To save yourself time and money, never make a repair until you know it's necessary. Most repairs are free to test if you know how, and there is lots of good info here on how to test for just about any repair. Use the search function.
 
How many threads have been rehashed and remade over idle problems and transition problems with the NT carburettor - hmmm, maybe air leaks might be playing a good part - i wonder why; could those 4 slots have something to do with it...

yeah, my casual inspection of the setup showed that one has to really push those carbs on, PAST the slots. then they seem to, or at least, all of mine have, seal effectively without...anything.


and i will admit that the very first time i put one on... i thought it was on good and proper, until i had a really good look because the next morning i also noticed how the clamp was hitting that weld, and the morning sun just happened to glimmer through the base of the slots at the same time.

assumptions versus cold logic. which ones correct more often than not?

they ARE deceptive, to people that either arent familiar with working on engines or "sliding" interference fits.
the amount of force required can sometimes have the layman concerned that something is going to break...read....99% of people on forum boards. everyone came here looking for answers in the first place, about something or other... me myself included. never really got an answer either!
the internet abounds with plenty of DIS-information unfortunately.

.
 
I shortened my intake Manifold and just used some Loctite high heat exhaust silicon to seal up any of the imperfections that I may have caused. left it to cure for 24 hours and no issues.
Just make sure you don't put it on the inside of the carb, rather put the layer around the manifold.
Also being silicon if a little get sucked into the motor it should not cause too much harm, I hope.
 
High heat silicone isn't fuel proof. Seal-all is. Do you actually know if your carb is leaking, or did you just assume it was going to?
 
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