1999 Whizzer rear belt

whizzer

My 99 Whizzer has an automatic clutch. It originally came with the manual & I always had to rev it a little when the clutch was disengaged to keep it running.

Yep, thats where I'm at now. I keep tweaking the rear belt and the idle speed. Finally I have gotten it to the point I can at least ride it. Working on and off this has taken me nearly all summer. I must get smarter or faster somehow.
 
If all else fails you can use the belt tensioner kit, or do as many have and convert to the automatic clutch.

The tension kit makes the system work better but shortens front belt life.

Have fun,
 
I did end up using the tensioner and after some very minute tweaking with it and the rear axle I am very close. As I stated above at least now I can ride the bike. I never would have guessed it would be this hard to get things right. I was ready to list the bike back on craigslist but thanks to this forum I'm riding once again.
Thanks to you and all for the help.
Jim
 
Fantastic!

Thrilled you almost have it working 100%. Because of supply & demand, I am considering making a working version of the automatic clutch. I hope to use the hub, shoes, spring, shoe mounting plate from Max Torque and have the pulleys, hubs, and mounting hardware made in the USA. This way it will work and parts would be easily available if ever needed.

Have fun,
 
One year and a few months later and I'm still fighting this @#$%& belt adjustment. I came real close once but it still slipped while under power and barely stayed running when stopped. I'm making one last attempt and if I can't get it its going to get sold. I have went thru Guenther's procedure over and over. Don't see what I'm missing. Now I have the front belt where I think it should be but the rear belt is way loose. Wheel is pulled back as far as it will go. Its a "AX 62" belt. Looks to be to long. Somebody out there must have an answer for this. I also have a 1948 Whizzer - clutch works perfect.
Thanks now for any help.
Jim
 
One year and a few months later and I'm still fighting this @#$%& belt adjustment. I came real close once but it still slipped while under power and barely stayed running when stopped. I'm making one last attempt and if I can't get it its going to get sold. I have went thru Guenther's procedure over and over. Don't see what I'm missing. Now I have the front belt where I think it should be but the rear belt is way loose. Wheel is pulled back as far as it will go. Its a "AX 62" belt. Looks to be to long. Somebody out there must have an answer for this. I also have a 1948 Whizzer - clutch works perfect.
Thanks now for any help.
Jim

An auto clutch will end your problems but will cost quite a bit. Quenton designed one & is selling it now. Here's the link: http://www.motoredbikes.com/showthread.php?42315-New-Whizzer-Clutches-Coming&p=374384#post374384
 
continued belt adjustment

An auto clutch will end your problems but will cost quite a bit. Quenton designed one & is selling it now. Here's the link: http://www.motoredbikes.com/showthread.php?42315-New-Whizzer-Clutches-Coming&p=374384#post374384

I know thats a great idea but I don't want to put any more money into this bike. Its kind of a rat bike as it is. I bought it as a bare bones bike on craigslist. Somebody stripped everything but the headlight and speedo off. There's no battery, ignition switch, horn, reflectors, tail light nothing. Plus they cut all the wiring out. so its not a bike to put money into but still would be fun to ride if I can SOLVE THIS CLUTCH PROBLEM!! Sorry could help myself.

Jim
 
The reason your vintage version works so well is because of design. When they copied it for the new edition motors, they didn't maintain the same distance and angle. The vintage motor used an AX26 whereas the new edition motors used a cheap 4L290 FHP belt but is 1" longer than the original and changes over to an AX27. Even replacing the 4L290 with the AX27 often won't work, because the clutch lever doesn't have enough PULL!!!!!. The vintage clutch handle has a lot of PULL and moves the clutch arm enough to engage and dis-engage the primary belt.

Although I can adjust the clutch to make them work OK, never can I achieve the same level as the vintage version. Remember the vintage Whizzer clutch handle had a lot more PULL, and could loosen and tighten the front belt completely, whereas it is impossible to do the same with the new edition motors.

The reason the automatic clutch is so popular is mainly because the manual in next to impossible to adjust correctly.


You could replace the rear belt with a 1" smaller version, and that would cure the loose rear belt, but still won't fix the short range of the front belt tension. If you get the front adjusted to allow you to stop without killing the motor, then it will slip at high speeds. If you make it tight enough to connect at high speeds, you won't be able to stop without killing the motor [not enough clutch lever PULL!!!!].

If you have the time, and are convinced to make it work, then try using a 15 series belt. The 15 series belt is thinner and will release easier at the stop sign ,and can still pull at high speeds. The smaller 15 series will help compensate for the short clutch handle pull.

I would suggest trying a 15280 [15/32" X 28"], however belt companies vary greatly and it may need a shorter version #15275 [15/32" X 27.5"]. The thinner belt will need to be shorter than the original because it sits lower in the pulleys. Your best chance of making it work well enough to ride is by trying the thinner series belt or buy an automatic clutch.

Have fun,
 
Thanks for the response. I have re-set all the belts again and finally got both belts tight with clutch released. Could not get enough lever pull to release so I am now making modifications to the lever itself to get a longer stroke from it. I think it can be done and will work. When I get results I'll try to post it.

Thanks again for all the help
Jim
 
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