fuel in bottom of engine leaking into magnito

[Fabian]

should go almost 70kms/hr on flat ground

To quote Siegfried from "Get Smart"

Huotalicus, i find that hard to believe.

 

[HeadSmess]

mmmm, wishful thinking can perform miracles.

i still say i got a genuine 85km/h... with no mods. this was down hill. and it didnt make it back up the hill

while id like to think having to brake behind a car is a sign of my superior speed, unfortunately its usually due to the traffic lights, some idiot in lycra, or a kellogs corn flakes type license...



note...while KM rules, unfortunately you cant escape this being a predominantly american site, with all the awkward american units of measurement.

look, i hate fractions but sometimes its really good...like, whats 5/8 doubled? 10/8, 5/4, 1 1/4...easy ditto on the halving. seriously, i call 3/4 a 12/16. then its OBVIOUSLY bigger than 11/16. etc

its the converting that gets painful... whats 0.275 in MM? (i can say its about 7mm off the bat but need the calculator to get any closer...)

i even was arguing with some old bat (mum) that a mile couldnt POSSIBLY be 167* or so odd feet... yards yes, feet, no. i think its around 5200 feet or so? i didnt grow up in england! i was born metric, always taught metric.. but can use furlongs, feet and thou... now...whats a gill? or a peck? sheeeeeeshush!


i digress...back to the thread at hand and points raised there within!


erm... i agree...do you break in a lawnmower? but!

my personal theory of gentle start up, warm up, followed by fully loaded full throttle blasts has been confirmed from an alternate source. two in fact.

my friend works on generator plants. big generator plants, multi megawatts.

i was discussing this break in procedure, taking it easy for the first few hours versus gentle warm up followed by full throttle with load, with my friend (yers, i still have a friend or two )


well, i was thinking, that most generators, being steady running engines, should be fairly immune to things like thrown rods etc. this is true.

i was also thinking that...they would be fairly prone to glazed bores, leaking rings, all the symptoms of bad break in procedures... as the standard "household" generator is pulled from the box, started, is instantly running at 3600rpm or whatever its governed to revolve at, and wont ever vary that speed unless the governor fails! or run out fuel. what comes first is inversely proportional to the initial outlay on said generator...

well, guess what? after rebuilding a 5000 HP diesel, they have a break in procedure. start them, generator disconnected, let them warm up. meanwhile, send the apprentice around to plug in about 50 or so 2400W heaters. then turn on the generator, WHILST LOADED. bypass governor. rev em up. let em idle. send apprentice around again to make sure all the heaters are still working. they burn out when pumped up to 400 volts...

and then...they DONT glaze bores.... and run literally forever.

once again, despite it being hijacking (merely the point was raised) i solemnly and blatantly declare...all this "gentle during break-in" is a load of of the sloppiest kind

same token...a lot of lawnmowers have bad rings simply due to the fact that noone follows a "break in" procedure. started up, ran full speed (most of them do these days, or near enough. i always tweak mine to do an extra 1000 rpm or so. more power, more grasshackability!) with no load, and possibly forget that they have oil in the crankcase forever after...

 

[Fabian]

i solemnly and blatantly declare...all this "gentle during break-in" is a load of of the sloppiest kind

I agree.

From what i understand, the motorcycle factories put completed bikes on a rolling road, hit the starter button and take the engine to redline in every gear to seat the piston rings. It's ironic that the owners manual tells you to take it easy and be "oh so gentle" running in the engine, when the factory revs the snot out of the engine from first tick-over.

In a modern engine, there is nothing that requires mating surfaces to "wear-in", because they are machined to such fine tolerances.
Every engine that has gone through my hands has "never" been treated gently during the so called "run-in" period, although i don't rev the engine past the point where it makes maximum power, and typically run in the maximum torque zone.

 

[butterbean]

I've gutted a stock pipe before, back when I used to mess with 2 strokes. If you weld the cap back on, it's not much louder than it is with the baffles in it, and it does make decent power.

 

[Fabian]

I've gutted a stock pipe before, back when I used to mess with 2 strokes. If you weld the cap back on, it's not much louder than it is with the baffles in it,

maybe your hearing is really, really shot, because i have reasonably bad industrial hearing loss and have also experimented with gutting the internals of a stock pipe.
I was barely able to ride the bike for more than a 1/4 of a mile before my ears couldn't take the noise any more, and that's not taking the rest of the neighbourhood into consideration, who most likely have significantly better hearing than i do, and want to keep it that way.

 

[butterbean]

Maybe it has to do with how I did it. I cut the muffler in half, had to drill through the honeycomb because it was actually welded in pretty strong, couldn't cut or break it loose. I didn't weld the half I cut off back on. Instead I took a section of galvanized steel pipe and ground the coating off and my buddy welded that to what was left of the stock pipe. He then welded the original cap to that (again grinding the galvanized coating off before welding). Perhaps the thickness of the galvanized pipe muffled more of the sound? Also, the cap does provide some back pressure, also somewhat silencing the sound. I also had a pocketbike x-chamber, which had no baffling, the silencer was merely a smaller diameter pipe which had the same effect, muffling the sound. I wonder if you read the part of my previous post where I mentioned welding the cap back on after gutting the pipe. No cap would make it an open pipe, causing it to be very loud as you described. But a cap would silence it enough to operate at a reasonable level. I said it wasn't much louder than a pipe with baffles, but it was a bit louder, not so loud in my recollection as to cause any sort of nuisance. You're good at making people sound stupid or like they don't know what they're talking about, i'll give you that. But I'm simply relaying my own experience. Making me look stupid won't accomplish anything except to make you feel smarter, and it won't change my perception of my own experience. I'm a stubborn American, i'll give you that as well. And while my hearing isn't the greatest, it's not completely shot either. A pipe without a cap is considerably louder than a pipe with a cap, baffles or no baffles. In fact, I've had a pipe with baffles and no cap, and it was louder than a pipe with a cap and no baffles. Both were louder than stock, but the pipe with no cap was considerably louder than either of the other two. Now if you wanna sit there and try to tell me a cap has no effect on loudness, i'll not waste the time or energy to argue. You have your experience, I have mine. I'll agree to disagree, nothing more, nothing less.