Combo Brake and Clutch Lever internal modification for removal of gear 2

[dotcom]

Bike Berry website says some customers have found the distance traveled by the clutch arm between gear 1 and 2 to be lacking. The gear actuator can be modified internally to exclude the use of gear 2 and therefore the transition would be from gear 1 to 3, thus allowing for an additional length of pull on the clutch arm.

Does anyone know exactly how this gets done? I am in need of someone that can help me with excluding gear 2 because I see it lacking. I took the 3 screws out to reveal the internal components but I still don't see how I do this.

 

[Fabian]

Whatever happened to the idea of using a proper clutch lever.

The device shown in the photo came with my kit and it went straight in the rubbish bin.

The right hand side brake lever was converted into a dual-pull system; operating both the front and rear brake simultaneously, and the front disk rotor was changed to a 9" diameter with the rear rotor staying standard diameter of 6", to give good front/rear brake bias.

 

[dotcom]

allow me to explain..... I haven't used it yet but I bought it because I found it essential for those with poor hand brakes.. Living in a city and having to stop quite frequently, I often find myself without access of pulling the clutch and instead having to squeeze on both hand brakes vigorously needing to make that emergency stop maneuver, while at the same time the clutch is still open and once the speed drops below a certain speed with the clutch still open, it stalls and gives a nice **** and stalls out completely and somewhat violently. Im really hoping and thinking this device does the trick im looking for. If I had coaster brakes, I could understand that POV but I don't. Since this is my first build without proper knowledge of the subject, I didn't think when I bought the bike it would come to this. Weighing 265 plus the weight of the bike and engine kit doing 20mph and having to stop in those situations, I think this is what I need for that smoother transition. My next build will be better thought out. I think coaster brakes are essential in some cases. I've been through 2 sets of brake pads in quite a short period. My odometer/speedometer is about to the pass the 500 mile break in period and im happy to say its been without any major engine issues. Just a flat tire here and small easy stuff. I really enjoy it though.

Whatever happened to the idea of using a proper clutch lever.

The device shown in the photo came with my kit and it went straight in the rubbish bin.

The right hand side brake lever was converted into a dual-pull system; operating both the front and rear brake simultaneously, and the front disk rotor was changed to a 9" diameter with the rear rotor staying standard diameter of 6", to give good front/rear brake bias.

 

[battery]

this looks like a terrible idea. you press the thumb shifter to depress the clutch the pull a trigger to DUMP the clutch. a bad idea IMO.

 

[Fabian]

this looks like a terrible idea. you press the thumb shifter to depress the clutch the pull a trigger to DUMP the clutch. a bad idea IMO.

I agree.

 

[Fabian]

Weighing 265 plus the weight of the bike and engine kit doing 20mph and having to stop in those situations. I've been through 2 sets of brake pads in quite a short period.

That's why it is even more imperative that your bike is fitted with disk brakes; using the largest front disk brake rotor and quality mechanical disk brake caliper on the market.

Just a flat tire here and small easy stuff

Throw a set of slime filled, thorn proof tubes on your bike to eliminate punctures.