Mods for reliability
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Fabian
Well-Known Member
Keep the rpm's below 4,000, and carry a spare magneto + spare CDI + spare coil + spare spark plug.
D
Deleted member 12676
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lots of Loctite if you haven't replaces the weak nuts and bolts and if you haven't balanced the engine
Fabian
Well-Known Member
Loctite 222 and 243 and 263 are your best friend when involved in this hobby/transport.
dchevygod
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Buy any Zenoah " G23LH, G23-29RC, G43L & G62 " and fit it with a GEBE belt drive.
Always pedal from a start, don't WOT " wide open throttle " for over 15-20 seconds and always use good oil at the right ratio. For performance zenoah and Chinese zenoah clone engines have more available upgrades than any other that I know of. I suggest either a Walbro wt-257 or a hda-48 carb because of the single fuel feed but the stock carb will very from year and model the newer version comes with a wt-668 "wt and hda carbs have H/L adjustments" and the older ones had a Walbro wyk barrel carb " some wyk carbs have a low fuel adjustment but most don't, they have knock offs with H/L adjustments similar to the biggest and best barrel carb the wyk-58.
Oh yeah and loc-tit is your friend, never hurts to check and or upgrade the bolts even when new.
If you want a reliable torquey engine go with the G43L they are really almost bullet proof if left mostly stock and taken care of.
Always pedal from a start, don't WOT " wide open throttle " for over 15-20 seconds and always use good oil at the right ratio. For performance zenoah and Chinese zenoah clone engines have more available upgrades than any other that I know of. I suggest either a Walbro wt-257 or a hda-48 carb because of the single fuel feed but the stock carb will very from year and model the newer version comes with a wt-668 "wt and hda carbs have H/L adjustments" and the older ones had a Walbro wyk barrel carb " some wyk carbs have a low fuel adjustment but most don't, they have knock offs with H/L adjustments similar to the biggest and best barrel carb the wyk-58.
Oh yeah and loc-tit is your friend, never hurts to check and or upgrade the bolts even when new.
If you want a reliable torquey engine go with the G43L they are really almost bullet proof if left mostly stock and taken care of.
wheelbender6
Well-Known Member
We all have different have different definitions of long distance. At one time, I did 50 mile round trip commutes about once a week.
For trips longer than that, I would likely get a four stroke like the Huashang. Mixing gas and oil is a little inconvenient on long trips.
You could also add an engine oil cooler to a four stroke engine that would provide a bit more oil capacity.
For trips longer than that, I would likely get a four stroke like the Huashang. Mixing gas and oil is a little inconvenient on long trips.
You could also add an engine oil cooler to a four stroke engine that would provide a bit more oil capacity.
So it has been said that I am very wrong about the shift kits reliability. I say the kit decreases reliability greatly. there are many benifits, as well as down sides to the kit. as there are with the single gear. but for the long haul rides 100+ miles I would much rather have the left side drive.
fury asks, I would like to hear what problem's I have run into?
here are a few. most have been chain issues, before the shift kit I had so many problems with the idler pulley. it worked its way down over time. any got more slack as the engine settled and chain stretched. and at one point flipped around and ripped my spokes out of the rim. I had to re spoke the rim with washers. my possible solutions for the issue would be to either take a grinding wheel and score the grip on the idler pulley, Or to flip the idler pulley to the opposite side of the frame so that it would be upside down. therefore giving it no chance to flip around. as for the wheel working its way down I would like to hear what any of you folks have come up with.
The shift kit I have had more problems with. the chain that runs from the 9-11 tooth sprocket to the 44-48 tooth freewheel often breaks loose. yes I do have them PERFECTLY alighned. I am a carpenter and have pleanty of lasers and straight edges. the majority of the problems are chain stretching and engine settling. but there is a very fine line between too much tension and not enough. the chain tensioner would help greatly but I would like to fabricate my own as I would like a heavier spring.
also with the shift kit there is a chain stay for the drive chain that goes to the rear derailer. it is a must! do not attemp to run without it. but even with it the chain will often fly off inbetween the freewheel and the drive wheel. I would like to see a boxed in chain stay to hold the chain's place in all directions.
Another negative to the shift kits reliability, you are relying on the bikes main drive and if you should blow a one way bearing or snap a chain you are stuck walking. on many occasion the bike gave me a run for my money. you loose power through the shift kit. which was quite noticeable when I first installed it. did no better up the hills but could go faster. which could have been acheived by reducing my gear ration on the rear wheel and peddled up the steepest hills of N.Y. we do have the worst roads in the country. although san fran has the steepest we are close. but if you are looking to peddle with your bike and have speed then no shift kit. seriosly. you will get 20+ mph with the regular stock drive and pull up hills quite fast with a little peddling. with the shift kit you cannot peddle and loose speed up hills. powerband is less noticable.
In the end I beleive it depends on how much money you are willing to spend. me, I do not need the biggest musalium in the cemetary.
fury asks, I would like to hear what problem's I have run into?
here are a few. most have been chain issues, before the shift kit I had so many problems with the idler pulley. it worked its way down over time. any got more slack as the engine settled and chain stretched. and at one point flipped around and ripped my spokes out of the rim. I had to re spoke the rim with washers. my possible solutions for the issue would be to either take a grinding wheel and score the grip on the idler pulley, Or to flip the idler pulley to the opposite side of the frame so that it would be upside down. therefore giving it no chance to flip around. as for the wheel working its way down I would like to hear what any of you folks have come up with.
The shift kit I have had more problems with. the chain that runs from the 9-11 tooth sprocket to the 44-48 tooth freewheel often breaks loose. yes I do have them PERFECTLY alighned. I am a carpenter and have pleanty of lasers and straight edges. the majority of the problems are chain stretching and engine settling. but there is a very fine line between too much tension and not enough. the chain tensioner would help greatly but I would like to fabricate my own as I would like a heavier spring.
also with the shift kit there is a chain stay for the drive chain that goes to the rear derailer. it is a must! do not attemp to run without it. but even with it the chain will often fly off inbetween the freewheel and the drive wheel. I would like to see a boxed in chain stay to hold the chain's place in all directions.
Another negative to the shift kits reliability, you are relying on the bikes main drive and if you should blow a one way bearing or snap a chain you are stuck walking. on many occasion the bike gave me a run for my money. you loose power through the shift kit. which was quite noticeable when I first installed it. did no better up the hills but could go faster. which could have been acheived by reducing my gear ration on the rear wheel and peddled up the steepest hills of N.Y. we do have the worst roads in the country. although san fran has the steepest we are close. but if you are looking to peddle with your bike and have speed then no shift kit. seriosly. you will get 20+ mph with the regular stock drive and pull up hills quite fast with a little peddling. with the shift kit you cannot peddle and loose speed up hills. powerband is less noticable.
In the end I beleive it depends on how much money you are willing to spend. me, I do not need the biggest musalium in the cemetary.
Fabian
Well-Known Member
Surely you can't say that with the sound of complete sincerity in your voice.
OMFG, i can't comprehend such a ludicrous concept.
and you are saying the shift kit is a worse solution. I am seeing logic so regressed that it's beyond the comprehension of a monkey with a learning disability.I agree. and have suffered the "same" issues with my shift kit, even though my jackshaft chain is perfectly aligned. The solution is now provided by the SickBikeParts Right Hand Side Chain Tensioner, which solves this problem completely.
I agree. which is why the "Right Hand Side Chain Tensioner is essential to the reliability of the Shift Kit
The engineer of the shift kit has heard my annoying voice in his ear for the last two years to provide a viable solution to this problem, even though he refuses to accept that it "was" a problem; with many people complaining about it to me in PM's, as they wanted me to manufacture and sell my chain tensioner solution.
Fortunately SickBikeParts has provided a much better solution, and i can say that it most definitely does work to perfection.
The solution is to run a "Dual Ratio" on the bottom bracket crank, operated using a conventional front derailleur. This effectively boxes in the chain so it can't jump off the sprockets.
The side benefit is that it gives you low range hill climbing gears and/or low speed crawling ability when negotiating difficult terrain.
I can accept this argument, and you have a valid point because it has happened to me, "but" only because i didn't listen to my own advise and change the bearing in the freewheel system when the internal bearing tolerance was out of spec i.e. you could wobble the final drive chainwheel more than 1/8 of an inch.
Having said that, it took 6,000 kilometers for the bearing to wear to the point where it was about to fail. It's the reason why i am so in favour of the White Industries Heavy Duty Freewheel Bearing because it can be rebuilt well before the freewheel bearing fails.
Another thing to note is that the internal pawl mechanism of the White Industries Freewheel is completely bullet proof, in comparison to the cheaper options which have been known to fail in this area.
Have you lost your mind? Such a comment makes me think so!
Crikey, it appears that you really have lost your mind.
Last edited:
D
Deleted member 12676
Guest
Wouldn't a really good quality heavy duty bicycle chain be part of the solution?
Of course it would.
check out this informative site on chains: http://chain-guide.com/applications/index.html
Of course it would.
check out this informative site on chains: http://chain-guide.com/applications/index.html
