Hot Rodding a WC1.

MVC-900F.jpgMVC-898F.jpgMVC-896F.jpgHi,


I too was shocked to learn the motors are designed to run between 300 and 400 degrees. Since they are air cooled boiling water at 212 isn't an important fact to consider. Also note the cylinder & head reach the higher temps, not the oil in the crankcase. The crankcase normally runs about 160 to 180 degrees.

After being told about the correct operating temps on an air cool motor, I tested the temps with my digital heat sensor on several motors, and found the best running versions were running over 300 degrees.


I have modified over 300 WC-1 cylinders with the set screws, and so far all are still working. The set screws are installed at a 90 degree spacing and two per seat. I normally drill the holes deep enough to touch the edge of the seat to allow the pressure from the set screws to hold the seat firmly.

DUH! of course the valve seats being held in place doesn't have any effect on the operating temp.


I have had a bunch of camshafts ground for the new motor [and the vintage version also].

Here are the choices:
Early NE camshaft [.186" lift]
Late NE camshaft [much weaker than early]
Version one Weber regrind [.193" lift]
Version two Weber regrind [.178" lift]
Raceway Welded [.198" lift]
Precision regrind [.212" lift]

All require GOOD mushroom lifters [not soft Taiwan trash]. Lifter needs to be precision, light weight, and HARDENED. American made version are within .0002" of specs.

I am including a picture of the set screws installed, as many have had local machine shops upgrade the cylinders. Please note the seats will most likely need to be re-cut after installing the set screws.


Have fun,
 
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Quit the degrading. It puts you in the same seat,it isn't necessary.
Oil hanging,that hangs longer doesn't cool. It does the opposite,what happens with higher rpms.
Sell your hardwares,Stop degrading Whizzer.
Besides.....recess is over!

Ray


I hate reporting bad things to the Whizzer Magis !!!
 
Hi Mason_man,
Not sure what your problem is, however I think telling the truth to everyone is very important and helps them avoid spending money for junk and being "ripped off".

I normally rebuild at least 6 new edition and 2 vintage motors every week. Therefore I am able to pass along a lot of important information about the process to many and help them keep their Whizzers on the road.

Here are a few important details you might find interesting!

None of the current motors or bikes [Cruzzer] sold from Joe in Taiwan are LEGAL in the USA.

None of them are EPA, CARB, or DOT approved, and violate many of our laws. As an example the 16 MM carburetor now being used has never been through the EPA process. None of the crankcase vent systems have been checked for air pollution. Many of the motors & parts are left over from the last bikes made for Whizzer USA [Ambassador II and NE-r models], and Whizzer USA owns the necessary paperwork to sell them in the US, not a vendor in Taiwan.

Of course Joe in Taiwan doesn't care if a vendor in the USA goes to jail or is fined for violating the law, he won't.

Sorry if I think it wrong to cheat hard working Americans by dishonest actions from anyone.

Have fun,
 
View attachment 52535View attachment 52536View attachment 52537Hi,


I too was shocked to learn the motors are designed to run between 300 and 400 degrees. Since they are air cooled boiling water at 212 isn't an important fact to consider. Also note the cylinder & head reach the higher temps, not the oil in the crankcase. The crankcase normally runs about 160 to 180 degrees.

After being told about the correct operating temps on an air cool motor, I tested the temps with my digital heat sensor on several motors, and found the best running versions were running over 300 degrees.


I have modified over 300 WC-1 cylinders with the set screws, and so far all are still working. The set screws are installed at a 90 degree spacing and two per seat. I normally drill the holes deep enough to touch the edge of the seat to allow the pressure from the set screws to hold the seat firmly.

DUH! of course the valve seats being held in place doesn't have any effect on the operating temp.


I have had a bunch of camshafts ground for the new motor [and the vintage version also].

Here are the choices:
Early NE camshaft [.186" lift]
Late NE camshaft [much weaker than early]
Version one Weber regrind [.193" lift]
Version two Weber regrind [.178" lift]
Raceway Welded [.198" lift]
Precision regrind [.212" lift]

All require GOOD mushroom lifters [not soft Taiwan trash]. Lifter needs to be precision, light weight, and HARDENED. American made version are within .0002" of specs.

I am including a picture of the set screws installed, as many have had local machine shops upgrade the cylinders. Please note the seats will most likely need to be re-cut after installing the set screws.


Have fun,

Thanks for those pics and additional info. Now I see what you mean! I think I'm going to hold on to my WC1 cylinder and head after all as back up (incase the new cylinder I got gives me any trouble).
If you still offer this service I'll PM you for pricing..
 
Quit the degrading. It puts you in the same seat,it isn't necessary.
Oil hanging,that hangs longer doesn't cool. It does the opposite,what happens with higher rpms.
Sell your hardwares,Stop degrading Whizzer.
Besides.....recess is over!

Ray


I hate reporting bad things to the Whizzer Magis !!!


Ray,
Not trying to pick a argument, but sometimes the truth is hard to sugar coat. It's better that some consumers know the possible issues with the bikes and as constructive criticism for Whizzer to hopefully continue improving on their products.

That said,I appreciate everybody's experienced knowledge on this thread so far and do hope there is no more negativity between fellow Motoredbike members.
 
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