Kick Starting NE5 w/o Battery

OK, a thorough carb cleaning 'almost' did the trick. I removed the main and idle jets, gently ran oxy-acetylene tip cleaners through the very small holes, cleaned everything with gumout and reinstalled. The bike fired up with the first kick start and ran well until the bowl emptied. Apparently the float was sticking shut or the orifice clogged. I removed the bowl and re-inspected the movement of the float... Looked ok. Opened gas line and flow through the float valve looked good. Reinstalled and the bike ran fine until the bowl once again ran dry.

Then it got too dark to work further.

I have small clear bulb fuel filter inline that appears good. Maybe the small section of fuel line between the filter and carb is disintegrating and clogging the float orifice? I'll run some fuel into a glass and check for contamination. Else the float is binding.

If that fails, then it appears time for a carb rebuild. These any good?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Carb-Repair...Parts_Accessories&hash=item461ee07a3e&vxp=mtr
 
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I have a suggestion for getting through the winter (should probably take my own advice). After your last ride of the season, mix some fuel stabilizer into your gas and start the bike again, rev the engine a little to make sure the fuel stabilizer gets into the carb. After that, start it a couple times a week and rev it up a little. This should keep the carb from getting clogged, and keep the plug from going bad.
 
I have a suggestion for getting through the winter (should probably take my own advice). After your last ride of the season, mix some fuel stabilizer into your gas and start the bike again, rev the engine a little to make sure the fuel stabilizer gets into the carb. After that, start it a couple times a week and rev it up a little. This should keep the carb from getting clogged, and keep the plug from going bad.

I get around the winterizing problem by riding in the winter.
I like both of these suggestions but I usually put my bike away in an area that gets 'boxed in' with other stuff.

I'm thinking I'll just remove the carb, disassemble it, clean it and store it in a plastic bag until the Spring. I often seem to have carb problems beginning the new riding year...
 
Fuel stabilizer is a good idea...its cheap and saves all the time spent fixing a prob. These days,fuel isn't always made the same either..summer blends etc....that usually means they sold you some alcohol or other junk.
 
Bad thing as that I did add stabilizer last Fall. Something else, corrosion, contamination... created this particular 'no start' problem...

Is a sticky float, open or closed, a somewhat common problem with the stock Whizzer 22mm carb?
 
I have small clear bulb fuel filter inline that appears good. Maybe the small section of fuel line between the filter and carb is disintegrating and clogging the float orifice? I'll run some fuel into a glass and check for contamination.
My fuel line between the filter and carb was disintegrating internally! I ran some gas into a clear wine glass off the filter and the bottom was filled with very fine small black pieces of rubber.

I replaced the line, filled the wine glass and the bottom was clear. Hooked up the line, started her up and she idled fine for 15 minutes. Now I'll need to ride her at load and return to fine tune the carb.

Looks like this problem is solved... for now...
 
Looks like this problem is solved... for now...
Well... not so fast. Under load the engine begins running strong then progressively bogs... then misfires under moderate load... then won't idle. A quick check shows an empty carb bowl.

A closer examination revealed that the float needle was slightly sticking in its bore. The weight of the float was insufficient to pull the needle down allowing gas to flow. The float itself rotates smoothly on its pin.

Another cleaning had no effect.

Letting the bike sit for a few minutes allowed the bowl to refill but stopping and starting every mile obviously doesn't work.

---

Can a new float needle be purchased separately at a local Ace Hardware or small engine repair shop or do I need to order an Ebay carb rebuild kit?

Or???
 
You're just not having any luck, are ya! :(

Here's a few guesses.....

The needle valve is usually pretty loose in it's bore, so it would have to be really gunked up to make it stick.
Is the little wire clip on the needle positioned around the tab on the float, or underneath it? The wire clip should be over the tab, with the tab on the float resting on the little spring loaded plunger on the end of the needle valve.
Is that little plunger on the end of the needle sticking?

Also, what you are describing also sounds like the float bowl could be boiling dry.
Which motor is in your bike?
The earlier NE-5 motors that came without the aluminum spacer between the carb and cylinder were known to boil the float bowl dry when the motor got hot.

And, the final guess...... some of the gas caps will not vent properly, causing the tank to build up a vacuum and starving the carb. Try riding with the gas cap loose and see if that helps.
If it does, you will need to drill a small hole in the gas cap vent.

Keep at it. Don't let that bike beat you!!!
 
Is the little wire clip on the needle positioned around the tab on the float, or underneath it? The wire clip should be over the tab, with the tab on the float resting on the little spring loaded plunger on the end of the needle valve.
Is that little plunger on the end of the needle sticking?
No boil over; symptoms occur with a barely warm engine. Cap has already been modified to prevent the vacuum lock.

My float needle is held with a small wire that loops under a small brass tab on the float. If I have a spring loaded plunger integral with this 22mm carb needle, then it is stuck as the needle appears to be solid with a rubber tip. I have an aftermarket 26mm carb and that float needle has the plunger you describe.

Do all 22mm needles have a plunger?

Even if my stock 22mm carb had a plunger, that would only make the problem worse as the plunger would tend to shut off the fuel flow early rather than 'promote' it.

I can remove, disassemble and reinstall the damn carb in less than 2 minutes now! I'll check the bore of the float needle passage use a magnifying glass to make certain that there is not an embedded object that is causing the needle binding...

I'd like to pick up a new 22mm stock carb from anyone should you have a spare.

Again, thanks to all for the help!
 
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