Quanah
Member
I've heard it said to Loctite the jet...that just has "WRONG" written all over it. 10% ethanol is normal around here.
NT Carb One Piece Main Jet Blues
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Fabian
Well-Known Member
There is no need to use any kind of thread lock on the jet or the tube. They should both be a firm fit into their respective screw threads. In all of the hours of use my bike has had with the NT carburettor/s, i have never had a jet or tube come loose - NEVER.
Whenever the jets no longer fit firmly into the tube, i simply purchase a new tube - problem solved and reliability is guaranteed.
If you can't get ethanol free fuel, you will have to jet the carburettor accordingly; ensuring an optimal air/fuel ratio.
Whenever the jets no longer fit firmly into the tube, i simply purchase a new tube - problem solved and reliability is guaranteed.
If you can't get ethanol free fuel, you will have to jet the carburettor accordingly; ensuring an optimal air/fuel ratio.
HeadSmess
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drill press? huh?
anyways. fractional drills are different to number drills which are yet again different to metric incremental drills.
the jet numbers are usually stated as so many tenths of a mm...ie, a 65 is 0.65mm. so do NOT order number drills unless you know what size that number actually refers to!
http://www.smithbearing.com/pdf/ENG-FractionalChart.pdf
note the numbers get LOWER as the drills get BIGGER!
just buy a micro drill set, 20 dollars or so on ebay, and a pin vice chuck. metric micro drills. the fractionals are only really worth having on super high performance engines.
usually, each manufacturer has their own standard, and let it be known now...mikuni jets (not all of them...i believe this system starts at 70 and over) have no relevance to diameter of hole, but to the amount they flow...two different sized holes, at the same pressure, can still flow the same amount of fuel, due to the surface finish, and the length of hole. and mikuni is the best! reamed and polished holes! but manufacturing tolerances decrees that no two jets are EVER exactly the same.
anyways, i usually use a .55-.60
ive had one that loved a .45!
never gone larger than stock, which is usually around .75. they come rich as standard so they will always run... albeit rather badly.
octane ratings are a joke, i just use plain old 91 ethanol...strange that BP has their ethanol as a 91, the low stuff, whilst others rate their ethanol mix as 95, or the standard stuff. in au, we get 91, 95 and 98 on tap... yes, our RON is not the same as the US RON.
honda proved conclusively that they could reduce the octane to 70 or so, simply by letting their engines rev out to 16000rpm or so.... detonation is due to a combination of low speed, high loads, and high compressions.
getting detonation? drop a gear, increase the rpm, reduce the load. simple.
cant do any of these cus you already at redline? change fuel to higher octane.
i run my engines fast, i dont need hi octanes. simple.
hi octane fuel doesnt make more bang...it simply burns slower, and is LESS LIKELY to go bang! you will make more power with a low octane fuel.
dont believe me? go do the research yourself and prove me wrong
then also explain to me the difference between octane, iso octane, and the other variants of the octane molecule
anyways. fractional drills are different to number drills which are yet again different to metric incremental drills.
the jet numbers are usually stated as so many tenths of a mm...ie, a 65 is 0.65mm. so do NOT order number drills unless you know what size that number actually refers to!
http://www.smithbearing.com/pdf/ENG-FractionalChart.pdf
note the numbers get LOWER as the drills get BIGGER!
just buy a micro drill set, 20 dollars or so on ebay, and a pin vice chuck. metric micro drills. the fractionals are only really worth having on super high performance engines.
usually, each manufacturer has their own standard, and let it be known now...mikuni jets (not all of them...i believe this system starts at 70 and over) have no relevance to diameter of hole, but to the amount they flow...two different sized holes, at the same pressure, can still flow the same amount of fuel, due to the surface finish, and the length of hole. and mikuni is the best! reamed and polished holes! but manufacturing tolerances decrees that no two jets are EVER exactly the same.
anyways, i usually use a .55-.60
ive had one that loved a .45!
never gone larger than stock, which is usually around .75. they come rich as standard so they will always run... albeit rather badly.
octane ratings are a joke, i just use plain old 91 ethanol...strange that BP has their ethanol as a 91, the low stuff, whilst others rate their ethanol mix as 95, or the standard stuff. in au, we get 91, 95 and 98 on tap... yes, our RON is not the same as the US RON.
honda proved conclusively that they could reduce the octane to 70 or so, simply by letting their engines rev out to 16000rpm or so.... detonation is due to a combination of low speed, high loads, and high compressions.
getting detonation? drop a gear, increase the rpm, reduce the load. simple.
cant do any of these cus you already at redline? change fuel to higher octane.
i run my engines fast, i dont need hi octanes. simple.
hi octane fuel doesnt make more bang...it simply burns slower, and is LESS LIKELY to go bang! you will make more power with a low octane fuel.
dont believe me? go do the research yourself and prove me wrong
then also explain to me the difference between octane, iso octane, and the other variants of the octane molecule
Fabian
Well-Known Member
or you simply use the highest octane (non ethanol pump fuel) you can get if wishing to run at (engine preserving) reduced rpm; staying somewhere near the maximum torque band with the same load and the same compression ratio. To heck with any worry - just run the highest octane number and be done with it. Who gives a damn if it doesn't increase power for the low level of fuel consumption and low fuel cost of the extra octane number when paying at the cashier.
Only if the compression ratio and port timing is altered to allow the bejesus to be revved out of the engine.
Not everyone wants to rev the life out their engine - some people actually prefer reliability and prefer to ride sensibly than to just rip up and down the street; making a complete nuisance of themselves in the neighbourhood.
HeadSmess
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ahem.... please quote the next line next time
and at 1L every 50km or so...even my old v8 sandman was better on the gas... mind you, that wasnt run WOT 99% of the time.
remember fabian, youre the one that destroys con rod bearings, has spent countless frustrated hours and dollars searching for answers...
not me
my role is simply as an advisor, always has been.Fabian
Well-Known Member
You only need to do a 3 second search and you'll find a city full of people who have had connecting rod bearing issues, though a reasonable number is caused by excessive rpm and the rest by the crappy stock CDI.
My bike just keeps on ticking (sometimes audibly) but for a good period of time, it's been giving me perfect reliability.
I don't carry tow ropes with me for my own needs but to haul other people's arses out of trouble with waves of low rpm torque.
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