66cc Flying Horse Tear Down

[Fast Shag]

I despise the idea of an unproporly calibrated speedo!

I have been sold on the idea of Jag's CDI already, just waiting on some funds...I guess that when I ever see anything with the Ducati name on it I get all fuzzy in the brain! With 3 projects on my table now (Cranbrook bike, girlfriend's bike, and the non running Vespa Piaggio), snow coming soon, and winter money stowed away, I have to juggle my project funds a little. The CDI might just have to wait till spring.

 

[Fabian]

Riding your bike down a steep hill with a GoPro camera (or similar) pointing towards the front wheel so you can't see the horizon (fooling people into thinking that the hill is flat ground) is another way to get 40+ MPH speeds.

Another effective way is to video a GPS speed reading, that's being taken on a motorbike and splice that video into the motorised bicycle video, showing that they are going 40, 50 and in some cases, trying to fool people that they are going 60+ MPH on their motorised bicycle.

Lots of sneaky ways that people try and cheat the system.

 

[KCvale]

That chain tensioner set me back about $4 at ace hardware!
Thanks for the tip on the clutch housing.
When I cold start it sometimes the rear wheel will lock up on me.

The YD engines (flying horse and Skyhawk) were originally designed for 410 chain and they put a 415 chain sprocket on them.
The issue is the chain hitting the front (straight part) of rear left cover plate.
With 41 chain this will even be worse.

Just pull that cover at look, you'll see the scaring.
You can dremmel it but I just cut a 2" wide chunk out of the plate.

Why the heck did you put a spring loaded tensioner on it?
Did you not get your rear sprocket true and your chain gets loose and tight, loose and tight?
Poor fix, the proper fix is to get the sprocket true on both the vertical and horizontal planes.

Have you put an NGK 5944 (BPR7HIX) Iridium plug in yet?
http://www.ngk.com/product.aspx?zpid=9496
That my friend is something you will actually feel.

AS for the 'clean' look inside that why YD is all I use for 2-strokes, they build a nice engine.
Try the front page kit on the front page of gasbike.net sometime, it comes with the cylinder and piston in a different box so you don't have to take it apart to see the quality.

 

[Fast Shag]

I'll work on the housing today... My alignment is perfect from both sprockets and fits perfect on the outer hub. No wobble side to side or front to back. The spring tensioner kills a lot of vibration, makes the chain run more smoothly, and makes adjusting a snap! Why do some people pay up to $100 for a spring loaded tensioner? I also believe that a smooth running chain will prevent any loosening of the tensioner into the wheel, even though my tensioner is more solidly mounted than most by engraving the frame and clamp sides plus the use of red lock tight and double nutting (giggitty). Unlike making it a job and money maker for me, this is a hobby. Working on them, improving on design and handling gives me pleasure. Some things work, others don't; that's the fun in these! If I can improve design for $4, so be it. I made it, it works awesome, and someone else might benefit from it. You should see what I did with the scrap iron left over......

I will try the double prong spark plug...I know that when I switched out the stock plug wire to a bosch it worked better.

 

[Fast Shag]

I added a 3rd motor mount using the bottle holder and chain guard screws. It now prevents the motor shifting over little by little by cold starts. (No matter how tight my mounts are) And I know motor mount screws never snap and knowing it's not a pain to heli coil motor mounts, It adds an extra safe guard mount if anything like that would ever happen on a long distance ride. Plus, the decrease in overall vibration was HUGE. Cost....Free. Time....30 min. Killing two birds with one stone....Priceless.

 

[Fast Shag]

So I was able to get in there and see the scaring... I dremeled out where the gouges were and smoothed them out on the cover and inside housing. Couldn't remove sprocket after taking nut off, so I carefully worked around it and got everything ground down, nice and smooth. Thanks for the tips guys!

 

[KCvale]

So I was able to get in there and see the scaring... I dremeled out where the gouges were and smoothed them out on the cover and inside housing. Couldn't remove sprocket after taking nut off, so I carefully worked around it and got everything ground down, nice and smooth. Thanks for the tips guys!

You are welcome ;-}

 

[Purple Haze]

Purple, Explain " clearance the inside". I don't have a full gallon run through my 66 flying horse yet,so break in is still in process, but I hear all kinds of noices . As this is my first bike, i'm not sure what is normal ( in the typical sound perimeters ) for them. I understand that they may have some piston lateral movement sound, and the normal chain noise, so if I can eliminate any noices, that would be nice. Also if I could isolate "outside the engine" sounds, I could hear whats going on inside a bit better. Thanks for your input .

OK, they say a pic is worth a thousand words:

http://www.motoredbikes.com/attachm...attachmentid=54828&d=1415642597&thumb=1&stc=1

 

[crassius]

if you have no dremel, you can use a hacksaw to make a cut just above and just below the scored area, then grab the place in the middle with your pliers and just snap it off

leaves a nice, square gap for chain clearance

 

[Purple Haze]

Oops! I got the pics in the wrong order; but you get the idea.