Builder From West Virginia.

[Paul E.]

Hi, I'm new too, and I was lurking here listening in and wondering about this:

"Welding them solid is your best option, You should do a test ride before you weld them,"

how do you secure a part pre-weld, to test drive? I took a metal shop class in HS, but this one has me stumped.

 

[fattirejack]

Hi, I'm new too, and I was lurking here listening in and wondering about this:

"Welding them solid is your best option, You should do a test ride before you weld them,"

how do you secure a part pre-weld, to test drive? I took a metal shop class in HS, but this one has me stumped.

Chain tensioner in kit is bolted on, You can test ride with the bolted on bracket. Then weld it after your sure you don't need to move it.

 

[Paul E.]

ok that makes sense, I was thinking that crap metal that the tensioner bracket was made of would have had to be replaced with some flat stock. thanks

 

[fattirejack]

Josh, I was looking at your photos and saw another possible problem. You have about an inch between your rear motor mount and your block, the way these little 2-strokes vibrate you will either pull the threads out of your block or break those studs off. I would put the aluminum spacer on those studs, if you can't move the mount tight to the block.

 

[304-Pedal-Cycles]

Right! Good looking out man. Idk why I didn't think of that lol. Or I just forgot about it lol. With the spacer and welding the mount to the frame I shouldn't have problems. Let's hope anyway