The first thing I install is the rear sprocket. Now before I install the sprocket, I take the time to remove the rear hub assembly, remove the grease that's in there and pack the bearings with disk brake grease for cars. The reason for this is that we are going to be going faster than this grease was designed to used for. I do the front bearings also. When installing the gear once you get all the nuts snugged down. I use a piece of chalk to hold against the sprocket lightly and spin the wheel. This will tell you where you need to tighten the bolts more to get the sprocket straight and true. This will take some time, but it's worth doing it right. Don't forget to use lock tite on the bolt threads. The thing I install is the pedal crank assembly. You will have to buy new pedals as the new crank has to have 9/16 inch threaded pedals, the old ones are 1/2 inch. Now this bike has two different size of tubes. The front one being bigger than the rear. Also you will see in the motor mount picture that I have no bolts holding the mount together. That's because once I had the mount to size, I welded the two pieces together from the bottom. Also I used a socket to form the correct size on the front of the mount. This also was re welded to make it strong. Now before mounting the engine mount to the frame. Take the time to put the engine on the mount to make sure that the holes line up. Every mount I've used from these kits..the holes don't line up. Alot easier to fix this before the mount is on the bike. Also, I do take time to use grade 5 or 8 bolts from the hardware store in place of the junky ones that come in the kit. Don't forget in the final assembly..everything gets lock tite at that time. It's better to take your time to pre assemble everything and make it right now. Make sure it right..then do the final assembly. Almost forgot. I do use bike inner tube around the frame for the motor mount..keeps from damaging the frame and gives a bit of vibration relief.
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