Hello from Southen California

Walmart bike.jpg

Today, I changed my mind and bought a cheap, but cool looking bike.

Wally World's vintage-replica of the 1937 Columbia. I'm sure, it's a very cheaply made bike, but, when I saw that mock gas tank, I couldn't resist the temptation of building my own fiberglass tank inside. I hope the bike holds up. It had a scratch for 10% off and I opened a Walmart credit card for another $25 off. Heck, you can't buy a used, beat-up bike on Craigslist for that price! It might be a good bike on which to get my motorbike feet wet.....

I plan to simply screw a wooden floor to the top of the bottom bar, put my form-fitted fiberglass tank on it and build the sides around it all. If I pull open one side to fill the tank, I don't need to mount a gas cap ON the outside of the bike, and I can use the space at the front and back of the tank to store oil and tools. But, the "devil is in the details" and I've got a lot of fine details to work out.

Any design ideas are very welcome. :unsure:

Jim
 
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Today, I changed my mind and bought a cheap, but cool looking bike.

Wally World's vintage-replica of the 1937 Columbia. I'm sure, it's a very cheaply made bike, but, when I saw that mock gas tank, I couldn't resist the temptation of building my own fiberglass tank inside. I hope the bike holds up. It had a scratch for 10% off and I opened a Walmart credit card for another $25 off. Heck, you can't buy a used, beat-up bike on Craigslist for that price! It might be a good bike on which to get my motorbike feet wet.....

I plan to simply screw a wooden floor to the top of the bottom bar, put my form-fitted fiberglass tank on it and build the sides around it all. If I pull open one side to fill the tank, I don't need to mount a gas cap ON the outside of the bike, and I can use the space at the front and back of the tank to store oil and tools. But, the "devil is in the details" and I've got a lot of fine details to work out.

Any design ideas are very welcome. :unsure:

Jim
greetings, a grocery getter,yeah me too. Nice bike! Shift kit parts are bout 70.00 if you weld your own. Maybe your next one.! You know you can't stop with just one...there'll be build 2 next...lol
 
Is the bike good enough?

greetings, a grocery getter,yeah me too. Nice bike! Shift kit parts are bout 70.00 if you weld your own. Maybe your next one.! You know you can't stop with just one...there'll be build 2 next...lol

I was contacted earlier today and told that not only are the 66cc kits are garbage with non-stop problems, but this Walmart Columbia bike will never stay in one piece. The opinion about the bike was that it was made to go 5 MPH.... not 25 MPH, and that the road and engine will tear it apart.

Well, that was discouraging because I know the bike is not a high quality bike..... But, is it really any worse than most other bikes being built? Just because it is sold at Walmart for $150, is it any worse than a $400 basic "no name" bike at a bicycle shop?

When I was a kid...... okay....... 50 years ago, we kids would ride our "no name" bikes so hard.... to the onlooker, it must have looked like we were trying to tear them apart instead of just ride them. We would jump over this brick wall and over that dirt hill and bash into a curb here and there..... and on and on............... So, would a 61 year old guy who treats the bike like a jewel, just riding it down smooth hard surfaced streets really going to tear them apart??? I know the 2 cycle vibration is a different dynamic than my childhood bike had to deal with but I'm interested to get a reality check on my friend's opinion on the Walmart Columbia ........... and a recommendation of where to buy a 66cc for about $160.....

Jim
 
wally bike..

Your bike has bigger tubing than my Kent. I remember 50 yrs ago too.lol. I'm first time builder also.. But like you say..take care of it. Don't drive 50 miles at top rpm vib'n every weld..shoot get up and build your bike. I've got a 4stroke so I don't need but bottom end torque.
 
That is a nice looking bike, red and white would be cool too. Grease those bearings from the gitgo, they only dab a finger gob at the factory to grease them.
 
Hold on, not so fast!

The rear final drive 'rag joint' sprocket adapter that sandwiches the spokes should be tossed in the trash; engineering wise, its a terrible design but one that is widely used because it fits nearly every bike.

For my money, this should be the first upgrade for any mb simply because it lines up the driveline perfectly, and eliminates to a large degree, the non-concentricity of the rag joint adapter. This makes a much smoother driveline, and relieves the irregular stressors on all bearings and clutch.

As far as clutchs go, for simplicity sake, the cent clutch is twist and go, perfect for giving test rides, but the two-stroke clutch design I like also, because it simulates a motorcycle; IE, popping the clutch etc.

I'm having trouble finding a good replacement for the OEM clutch thats included with the HS142 5/8 keyed straight shaft; its a bad design that doesn't look like it will outlive the motor.

I agree with the previous poster who liked buying a bike with V brakes already on the bike. cheers, have fun!
 
Paul,

I really appreciate that advise! You know, I'm a rookie... and know very little..... so, I have to depend on the kindness of strangers.... but not on a street car...... a motored bicycle! I have been wondering about the "rag joint" drive. It's a done deal then............ I'll spend a few more sheckles, and spare my spokes! I believe, the sprocket adapter is $55. A happy bike, is a happy rider. (I don't need to add any needless vibration)

And, I also liked what you had to say about the cent. clutch. So, are you saying, with the cent. clutch, you can't lift the rear tire and push down on the pedal to start the engine? This, I would like to do. So, I believe I'm correct, that with the cent. clutch, you must install the pull starter. Hell, I'm not building a lawn mower!

I'm really quite dedicated in sticking with the 66cc 2 stroker though. Do you have a good tip as to where I should buy it. I would like to stay in the $160 range. BikeBerry has about three silver kits from $160-$190. I will discard a few pieces of the kit (like the rag drive and gas tank) But, the exhaust alone almost pays for the kit. I want to beef up the chain tensioner. I thought about combining a larger spring loaded lever like the one below and replace that small fiber wheel with the large, grooved BikeBerry wheel. With the sprocket adapter and the large tensioner wheel, It should make for a smooth running drive train.

I'm redesigning my gas tank now.... expanding it's size, in readiness for an internal fiberglass tank. As for a vented gas cap.... are we just talking about a 1mm hole in the cap?

Jim

$(KGrHqVHJFYFHmfkHjpoBR6bjvf),w~~60_57.jpg tensioner wheel.png
 
Jim, I chose the smallest drill I had in a regular Dewalt drill set; it seems to be fine so long as I keep the gas below the filler neck.

As for tensioners, my experienced bike-building buddy swears that the CNC sprocket adapter cures 90% of driveline issues, so he uses the stock tensioner.

Yeah, once you get the cent clutch, the only way to start is pullstart; its fine with me, no issues. Before you get your adapter, be sure to ponder this:

Do you want to use the stock wheel/rear hub permanently? My next main upgrade will be a rear wheel laced with heavy duty spokes and coaster brake..this is a different hub diameter that my smaller free-wheeling hub, so a sprocket adapter at this point makes no sense for me.

By the way, I'm almost as new as you are at this, so take everything I say with a grain of salt, and double check my findings. Cheers!
 
Forgot the 2stroke purchase question: I don't know where the best quality/cheapest price nexus is; some others here will know for sure.

Some here will try to steer you to an aftermarket machinist who massages these motors for balance and power, but those motors cost hundreds more than what you are willing to spend at this point; not that they aren't worth it.

cheers!
 
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