Noob with a frame candidtae question

[bikejock]

Thanks- I will just be headed towards a 2 cycle HT motor. So no frame cutting. It is a "generic" bike - The wheels say "Motiv, " the name on the bike is "The Realm" -

Wide enough at the dropouts, fenders, at least a comfy seat, front suspension. I am sure there will be lost on the recommendations check list I have seen that will need to happen.

Add front brake ( maybe an extra rear one too)
Zippy the spokes- re-grease the bearings
Re-Paint the frame
Re-work the fenders for some left side clearance
Lay back the to of the seat post
a rear rack
maybe sweep the handle bars a bit
Upgrade tires, add thicker liners, slime or PP tubes
Like to add F& R lighting ( I am in a "bike" town and being seen more is how I want to roll)
Maybe even figure out a brake light??
Twin leg stand
Then all the engine stuff.......and that alone is a list. Lots to study and learn about

Slowly but surely

I gotta do those things with my bike to. I gotta bend my rear fender a little to aid in chain clearance so the 415 chain isn't banging against my rear fender. My bike has a 24X3 rear tire and the fender is made to match up with that tire size which could cause chain clearance problems. My rear fender is at least 3 inches or slightly over 3 inches.

I found a turn signal set up I might get for a little over $30 on amazon. For a break light, you could attach one to a break lever so the circuit to the break light is closed when ever you pull on the break lever activating the break light. I've thought about doing this for my bike. I believe some companies make break levers for break lights used on motorcycles that often could fit on bicycles to.

I'm also trying to find a way to make a disk break compatible for the front. For that I would need an 18 hole front disk break hub (still trying to find one) and a fork that can support the clappers for the disk break. I might try drilling 2 holes in the fork to make them disk break compatible so I can mount the clapper. Front breaks (preferably disk breaks) are important when it comes to motorized bikes.

 

[mogogear]

Thanks!! You might want to rethink drilling the front forks.
GAIN= mounting place for disk set up
LOSE= fork strength

You might just try to find a compatible used fork that can do what you want it to. I am a noob and I may not be the best person to give you advice though.

Stopping is critical- so are unbending forks...

Your suggestion just makes my spidey sense tingle

Good luck

 

[bikejock]

Thanks!! You might want to rethink drilling the front forks.
GAIN= mounting place for disk set up
LOSE= fork strength

You might just try to find a compatible used fork that can do what you want it to. I am a noob and I may not be the best person to give you advice though.

Stopping is critical- so are unbending forks...

Your suggestion just makes my spidey sense tingle

Good luck

My front fork is pretty sturdy. Two holes for the break clapper shouldn't come to any strength loss. It's a triple tree fork and they are usually built pretty well. It's also a Taiwan made bike from a local bike shop so it's pretty good quality over all. I'm using a red GT Dyno Deuce for my build. Bought it from Craigslist a few weeks ago. Always wanted one when I was growing up so I'm glad I found one. Payed $250 for it. They used to sell for $400 new ten or so years ago.

 

[bikejock]

I recently got an M Wave adjustable universal rear rack for my Dyno Deuce. It has no holes for the stays in the frame so I needed one that attaches to the frame without drilling into anything. Got it on amazon last week for around $30. It looks good on cruisers and fits damn near anything. Also fits just about any type of bike bags or saddle bags that have Velcro straps. It's also got a bracket in the rear I'm going to try modifying to fit a scooter turn signal, break light, license plate set up. Here's what it looks like: