Jim's 1937 Columbia replica, with 66cc Flying Horse engine

Today, I returned home and for the first time, mounted my Flying Horse 66cc engine and I am very disappointed with how un-level the carb. is. The rear mount is solidly mounted and the engine is as low in the rear as possible (very near the chain guard) so, I'm not sure how to correct the tilting problem??

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Add to that, the carb. is too close, and even under the horizontal tube, a full 1/2".. making the high performance air filter impossible to use.


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I'm happy with everything else. I'm just not sure how to correct the tilted carb?

I wonder if I'm just overlooking something?

Any solutions would be greatly appreciated... :cry:

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The one I built is the same way...but the engine seems to run fine like that so I'm leaving it alone even tho I don't like it.
 
Re-weld

The one I built is the same way...but the engine seems to run fine like that so I'm leaving it alone even tho I don't like it.

Well, my neighbor was over tonight, and he knows a good welder who can weld aluminum, so I think, we're going to modify two of the angles. After contemplating it for quite a while, welding is the only practical solution I can think of. I've seen a couple different models of the offset manifold; one that is just build on a 45* angle from Custom Motorized Bicycles (being able to use on L or R side) and the kind I bought from Piston Bikes, which is a compound or rising angle, as well as the 45*)

I will have to try and return this Sick filter as it's like trying to fit a round peg in a triangular hole, even after modifying the intake tubing. I might even have to make my own filter. But, once I get the carb. level, I should be in good shape.....

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are those aluminum? I feel like I've used ac stick on one before. maybe my memory is hazy, I haven't looked at a commercially available intake for one of these in months
 
Well, I have a drawer full of intakes and they are not labeled, the one I used needed no mods.

That is a good air cleaner but the low profiles work well too and fit, I'm sure SBP will swap, good guys over there.

Tough to tell if your engine is at a 90 to the seat post though without a front mount.
Get the engine and drive train in and working first, everything else is just 'make to fit' if need be.

I built mine up to running before I even dinked with the gas tank.

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Everything played nice after that, and even that was not hard, the carb had that air cleaner on it and I didn't need to even 'reamedy' the exhaust pipe mount holes to twist it to fit nice.

Sorry I can't steer you to a BUY link for the perfect Z intake, but most can take some 'reamey' elongation on the mount holes to tweak it's angel a bit.

The simple little tricks are the best ;-}
 
Aluminum

Great to hear from you KC.

I've had a very busy day! I did take my intake manifold to a welder/friend of my neighbor and he was very accommodating, though I have to clean up quite a mess of metal inside BUT..... my carb. is now on the straight and level! Now, I will work on a good air filter choice.... hopefully, I can just exchange it. It was funny though; The welder was expecting aluminum but when I handed it to him, he said this is silver painted steel!:rolleyes: (I guess, everything silver...... ain't aluminum) :rolleyes:

After getting the carb. altered, I got to work on my gas tank. I had already worked very hard, getting the wooden forms just right. That took A LOT of time and thought. (good thing, I love problem-solving) This process might be interesting to some of you. I just finished the foam form a few minutes ago..... so, I'll post some photos. Soon, I'll epoxy it (I just found out that regular fiberglass resin eats this foam) I have the forum guys to thank in an old thread, for setting me straight on that early.

Here, you see 5, one inch-thick foam boards stacked up in the wooden form ready to be sanded. (not hot wired..... I've spent a fortune on this project already!!!! Sanding will have to do.... (and it did)

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So far, so good....

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Now, for the horizontal shape....

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This is the form for my epoxy/glass fabric tank which will sit inside the mock tank metal, after sealing with the Caswell tank sealer.... Thanks for that great idea KC!!

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Just be SURE that foam slides easily in and out of the frame.
Once you build it up with fiberglass you'll be screwed if it won't slide in.

There are two mount bungs on the frame, the ones for the fake tanks mounts.
I just ground mine off but they are pretty close to where you will want to make mountings to keep the tank in, and don't forget the one on top between the bars near the back.

Looking good bud ;-}
 
Just be SURE that foam slides easily in and out of the frame.

There are two mount bungs on the frame, the ones for the fake tanks mounts.

I built the wooden forms a full 1/2" smaller in height. Mostly, because I want to route the throttle cable up and over the tank, but yes, I can't go too thick on the glass. I'm trying to get a handle on whether I should go with the thicker (sturdier) mat, or regular glass cloth?? The mat is much easier when making the tight radius curves. I'm a bit afraid of those curves because the cloth doesn't like to turn sharply and in two different directions..... leaving pockets of air. Nothing more maddening than seeing bubbles of air in your glass, as a result of the cloth, not laying down properly!

Yes, I intend to file off the factory mounting bung on the horizontal tubing. (It can't help me) but I'm thinking the upper "tab" might be useful in holding my tank from lateral movement. I'm anxious to show you my mounting method.... it is a very basic idea..... but I think, very solid! :devilish:

Jim
 
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