Questions about weight
- Thread starter Xayne90
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crassius
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got customers that size & they do OK - a bit less top speed & a bit more struggles uphills - I'd recommend a bike with gears for helping it up really steep hills, and good brakes for getting stopped at bottom of those hills
bluegoatwoods
Well-Known Member
Yes. It would push you around. At 270, you won't be breaking any speed records, of course. But that engine will have enough guts to get you around locally at a moderate speed.
There are a few other issues that you'll have to deal with. The good news is that it's not all that hard. And here's a motivator: life is really, really good when you're riding one of these bikes.
Do you already have a bicycle? I actually hope you don't. Because it's likely that, whatever you might have, it's not quite up to this task. If, for instance, it has 14 gauge spokes then your rear wheels days might already be numbered.
I'd suggest a single-speed beach cruiser with 12 gauge spokes. The Huffy Cranbrook is a good example. (To be honest, there are knowledgeable folks here who feel that this model is a no-go. But there are a number of us who feel that it's a very good bike.)
I'd urge you to get a 22 tooth rear sprocket and a 28 tooth front sprocket. I think this is important for you because if you don't gear your pedal drive quite low, then starting up from a dead stop is going to be pretty awkward. You can get these items at a fine price at www.niagaracycle.com
(I sure do hope that none of the sponsors here carry these items. If so, then I'd rather have given them that plug. But I don't think they do.)
I'm a 180 lb-er with a lot of bicycle experience. A lot. I ride smart. I'm able to baby my wheels on a pedal bike. On a motored bike, my rear wheel takes a beating. The reason is that our roads are simply not all that good. It's likely that you've got the same trouble wherever you live.
This means that you will need to be the shock absorber for your bike. It can be done and it's worth your while. I just don't know if I can explain properly, in words, just how it's done.
Have you ever noticed the difference between a good canoeist and a bad one? Or a good skier and a bad one? In a nutshell, the good ones keep their center-of-gravity moving in as nearly straight a line as possible regardless of the zigging and zagging that the canoe, or the skis, might be doing. They use the rest of their body to keep contact with the canoe and hold it to their center of gravity.
All bicyclists actually need to do the same thing. Whether they realize it or not. A heavy cyclist, on a motorized bike especially, needs to be particularly cognizant of this need.
Imagine you're approaching a seam in the pavement, for instance. This is one of those seams that has buckled into a five inch hump. You'll want to lift your butt up off of that seat. When you ride over it, allow your front end and handlebars to rise right along with the hump in the road. Then allow your rear wheel to do the same. Your bike just went through a see-saw type motion while your center of gravity proceeded along in a nice straight line. That's how you do it.
If you're riding a shoulder (to avoid traffic) you'll likely run into spots where your bike needs to do this teeter-totter thing over and over and over. If you can get the hang of this, then you'll probably succeed. If you can't, then you'll taco your rear wheel. Maybe it won't quite be a taco. But it'll get bent out of shape.
So, boiling it down, get wheels with at least 12 gauge spokes. Gear your pedal side nice and low. You'd better get some good pedals, too. Perhaps bear traps with a good axle. You can get those at Niagara or Husky Bicycle. And just maybe some of our sponsors carry these. If they do, then I'd beg you to buy them from those guys. They deserve our support.
Then just take in nice and easy while you get to know your bike and how to ride it.
With that, I can see no reason that you can't succeed.
There's probably other advice that'll be useful that I'm just not remembering right now. But don't worry. Others'll come along and they'll have ideas for you too.
Best of luck.
There are a few other issues that you'll have to deal with. The good news is that it's not all that hard. And here's a motivator: life is really, really good when you're riding one of these bikes.
Do you already have a bicycle? I actually hope you don't. Because it's likely that, whatever you might have, it's not quite up to this task. If, for instance, it has 14 gauge spokes then your rear wheels days might already be numbered.
I'd suggest a single-speed beach cruiser with 12 gauge spokes. The Huffy Cranbrook is a good example. (To be honest, there are knowledgeable folks here who feel that this model is a no-go. But there are a number of us who feel that it's a very good bike.)
I'd urge you to get a 22 tooth rear sprocket and a 28 tooth front sprocket. I think this is important for you because if you don't gear your pedal drive quite low, then starting up from a dead stop is going to be pretty awkward. You can get these items at a fine price at www.niagaracycle.com
(I sure do hope that none of the sponsors here carry these items. If so, then I'd rather have given them that plug. But I don't think they do.)
I'm a 180 lb-er with a lot of bicycle experience. A lot. I ride smart. I'm able to baby my wheels on a pedal bike. On a motored bike, my rear wheel takes a beating. The reason is that our roads are simply not all that good. It's likely that you've got the same trouble wherever you live.
This means that you will need to be the shock absorber for your bike. It can be done and it's worth your while. I just don't know if I can explain properly, in words, just how it's done.
Have you ever noticed the difference between a good canoeist and a bad one? Or a good skier and a bad one? In a nutshell, the good ones keep their center-of-gravity moving in as nearly straight a line as possible regardless of the zigging and zagging that the canoe, or the skis, might be doing. They use the rest of their body to keep contact with the canoe and hold it to their center of gravity.
All bicyclists actually need to do the same thing. Whether they realize it or not. A heavy cyclist, on a motorized bike especially, needs to be particularly cognizant of this need.
Imagine you're approaching a seam in the pavement, for instance. This is one of those seams that has buckled into a five inch hump. You'll want to lift your butt up off of that seat. When you ride over it, allow your front end and handlebars to rise right along with the hump in the road. Then allow your rear wheel to do the same. Your bike just went through a see-saw type motion while your center of gravity proceeded along in a nice straight line. That's how you do it.
If you're riding a shoulder (to avoid traffic) you'll likely run into spots where your bike needs to do this teeter-totter thing over and over and over. If you can get the hang of this, then you'll probably succeed. If you can't, then you'll taco your rear wheel. Maybe it won't quite be a taco. But it'll get bent out of shape.
So, boiling it down, get wheels with at least 12 gauge spokes. Gear your pedal side nice and low. You'd better get some good pedals, too. Perhaps bear traps with a good axle. You can get those at Niagara or Husky Bicycle. And just maybe some of our sponsors carry these. If they do, then I'd beg you to buy them from those guys. They deserve our support.
Then just take in nice and easy while you get to know your bike and how to ride it.
With that, I can see no reason that you can't succeed.
There's probably other advice that'll be useful that I'm just not remembering right now. But don't worry. Others'll come along and they'll have ideas for you too.
Best of luck.
butterbean
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I weigh 270 also, and I've got to be honest, the 2 stroke kits do not perform well for guys our size, at least not anywhere but on flat land. I never tried a shift kit, that might make a difference, but the larger displacement 4 strokes seem to be where its really at for us bigger guys. If you want to start out with something basic to cut your teeth on, nothing wrong with the 2 stroke kits, but you'll eventually want more. You can either spend a lot of time and money installing performance parts and upgrades to the 2 stroke kit, a waste of time imho, or you can go custom. but if you go custom, make sure you do it right and pick an engine that makes good power out of the box. the 79cc predator is a good option once the governor is disconnected, I am working on a build that will eventually be powered by one but I have not yet ridden one. But I hear they make great power, and they rev pretty high so you can gear them low for great torque advantage. Mine will be geared for about 32mph. Others have geared theirs to do close to 50 with no complaints about power issues.
mcliquidators
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I am about the same weight as you and have had good success with the HT80cc for the money. You won't be setting any high speed records but you can cruise just fine. I am running a 48t rear sprocket so my top speed is definitely not the greatest but I can tell you that I have no issues going up any hills where I did previously with the 40t one. It is a night and day difference. Only on the steepest of hills do I have to pedal a little bit towards the top.
I am also running a centrifugal clutch though too which may help a little bit but not sure. Either way I would suggest getting one of those too. The only performance mods I have done were an inexpensive billet head and cheap voodoo expansion pipe.
So in short, the answer to your question is yes it will work fine and it is alot of fun
I am also running a centrifugal clutch though too which may help a little bit but not sure. Either way I would suggest getting one of those too. The only performance mods I have done were an inexpensive billet head and cheap voodoo expansion pipe.
So in short, the answer to your question is yes it will work fine and it is alot of fun
Mountainman
Active Member
Yes, if you give it a good pedal at the start. You should also have a bike with strong spokes and wheels.
MM
bluegoatwoods
Well-Known Member
Mountainman!
It's been a while. Good to see you.
It's been a while. Good to see you.
Mountainman
Active Member
Thank you and I'm still riding my motorized bicycle. Have a good ride. MM
