SickBikeParts Ultra Heavy Duty Freewheel Bearing

[Fabian]

I have had delivered to my door, the prototype SickBikeParts "Ultra Heavy Duty Freewheel Bearing", and it looks like a very nice piece of engineering.

In the next coming days, i will be making a video; showing the internal components (and how they differ from the already proven heavy duty freewheel bearing), as well as the disassembly and reassembly process of the Ultra Heavy Duty version.

Typically, when you live in Australia, you are made well aware that you're living at the ** a.r.s.e ** end of the world, because trying to get tools (in a local bicycle shop or even a specialist tool supplier) to service this bearing is proving impossible; at least at the local level, even though the tools are readily available in any store in America and Europe.

As a reference, the "Heavy Duty (White Industries) Freewheel Bearing System, uses an anodised blue locking ring, whereas the "Ultra Heavy Duty freewheel bearing system uses a wider non anodised locking ring on both sides of the Freewheel, which eliminates the rubber dust seal, that i have deliberately removed (exposing the ratcheting mechanism) so you can see the difference between the two systems.

From what i can see, the "Ultra Heavy Duty" version appears to use a double set of bearings in back to back alignment. If that's the case, then it massively beefs up an already durable freewheel bearing system, by doubling the load capacity of the bearing, and significantly improving the resistance to angular loading when (through an operational front derailleur) running a double or triple sprocket stack; hanging off the back of the outer most jackshaft drive sprocket.

The extra inboard width of the Ultra Heavy Duty Freewheel, may also allow the smallest (24T) sprocket to sit on the bearing hub, rather than being carried by only the bolts holding the sprocket stack together, not that it has proved to be a problem in the past.

Considering i was reliably getting (with a self appointed replacement period) 1,500 miles out of the 67082RS bearing, and approx 3,500 miles if letting the bearing reach it's catastrophic failure point, the new Ultra heavy Duty Freewheel Bearing System should be a significant improvement, not just for extended levels of long term reliability, but to improve the sprocket stack stability (and chain alignment) as the bearing/s (over time) lose their mechanical tolerance.

 

[SunkyWorks]

Thanks for the info Fabian.

I had just finished this discussion on the weakness of the White Industries ENO Freewheel:

Destroyed! A warning to those using freewheel cranks....
http://www.endless-sphere.com/forum...&sid=bc79c05518177c520a27979deb18decd#p363280

"I need a freewheel with dual row support bearings to take the angular loading applied by offset mounted chainrings. The Better quality freewheels like the sickbikeparts/ENO use a single row cartridge bearing and therefore are unusable in my setup as a single bearing offers negligible angular force support.

I think freewheels just aren't designed for the levels of torque applied at the crank which are usually 2>5 times greater than at the rear wheel where they are supposed to be mounted."

 

[Fabian]

I have found that even when using a triple (derailleur operated) chainwheel stack (attached to the jackshaft drive sprocket, sitting on the small width flange of the white industries freewheel bearing) it proved to be surprisingly durable and resistant to angular loading when operating the final drive "chain" on the 24 tooth front chainwheel, though you did have to be mindful of changing the 67082RS bearing every 1500 miles, otherwise at some point, the pedals and chainwheel would separate from the crank, leaving you without the ability to pedal the bike home.

The reason for this situation is simply that the bearing would fail and destroy the large circlip and locking ring, allowing the freewheel to fall apart. Having said that, the freewheel is easily rebuildable, with the installation of a new bearing, new circilp, new locking ring and a new dust seal, which works out to less than $20

The new Ultra Heavy Duty freewheel Bearing looks like it will take a much higher level of angular loading as well as taking much higher levels of power input, if using a modified engine with increased horsepower.

I am going to delay the disassembly and reassembly process, because i want to install the freewheel on my bike to test it out, but i will make a 'youtube' video detailing the assembly of the sprocket stack onto the new freewheel system.

 

[darwin]

WB Fabian, we thought maybe one of those roos snatched ya up or sumptin.

 

[Fabian]

I'm still kicking around the traps, but have been doing a lot of riding on my (human powered) road racing bicycle, dripping with carbon fibre and Shimano Ultegra from front to back, and let me say that it goes fast, and i'm holding my own in a group of fast guys, admittedly in the middle of the peloton; taking full advantage of the slipstream.

 

[Sidewinder Jerry]

In the Staton Inc shift kit a double freewheel system is used. This allows the crank to be completely independent of the the engine drive sprocket. You can also attach 3 chain rings to drive the rear wheel. However you must use a pull start engine.

What I have in my shift kit is the green White Industries Trails freewheels. They have 72 points of engagements. They also use 6 pawls instead of 3. 3 are short ones and 3 are long ones. This way there's always 3 in contact with the ramps. Makes for an extremely strong freewheel.

How many pawls are in the one in the SBK freewheel?

 

[Fabian]

The SBP freewheel has 3 reasonably wide pawls, as shown at 9:55 on the video: https://youtu.be/nkpv1WkbYrw and has proven to be unbelievably durable. My original White Industries Heavy Duty freewheel bearing has done over 38,000 miles and the pawls and ratcheting mechanism are still like new. The pawls have never been replaced, because they have never failed in operation.

I cannot accept a design that uses a pull-start as the sole method of engine starting, for if the pull-start fails (and they do) you are screwed, especially if you are riding in a remote area without any cell phone coverage.

I have a dual-start system, whereby the pull-start is only installed as a backup device, should the pedal start system fail, of which the pedal start system has "NEVER" failed in operation, yet when testing the pull-start mechanism, in replication of it being the sole method of engine starting, the starting rope has failed, but this was fixed by impregnating the rope with teflon grease.

 

[KCvale]

Nice new addition to the SBP freewheel selection.
That will be handy for really high power engines though I have yet to break a regular HD despite some pretty good efforts.

Personally I don't like any derailleur system on a powered drive train.
Chain is meant to run in a straight line from sprocket to sprocket and stay there.

I also find more than 5 gear jumps for an overall ratio of ~150 difference to be a complete waste for everything but pedaling along and should be avoided if you really don't want to pedal at all if possible.

 

[Fabian]

I tend to agree with you on the gearing and specifically about 2 points: number of gears and a derailleur system.

The derailleur system is vulnerable to damage in an off-road environment, so care must be taken when negotiating obstacles, and a lot of effort needs to be spent to make the chain drive derailleur system truly reliable over a wide variety of riding surfaces, but reliability can be achieved, if sufficient effort is given to overcoming the shortcomings of a derailleur system.
The big advantage of a derailleur system over other drive-train systems, is the ease of repair, should a mechanical failure occur. I carry a spare derailleur, spare shift cable, spare cassette and spare chains in my bicycle trailer tool kit.
If a hub-gear planetary destroys itself, you are going nowhere, and it's likely to stay that way until you're rescued if riding in a remote location, miles away from any help.
For that reason, i have persisted with a chain driven; derailleur operated shift method.

As far as the number of gears, i also agree with your assessment, for the majority of riding can be covered with a 6 speed gearing system.
That said, i have changed my bike from 9 speed trigger system to an 8 speed grip shift (twister shift) system, as it has proven to be far more reliable when using 9 speed chain on 8 speed cassette spacing.
Due to my large gearing spread which is currently a custom cassette made of the following sprockets in the sprocket stack 11 - 12 - 13 - 16 - 21 - 26 - 32 - 38, i need an 8 speed system, and that will be even more critical when i attach a modified derailleur hanger so i can swap out the 38 tooth sprocket for a 42 tooth largest cassette sprocket.
The front derailleur operates a 2 speed chainring system comprising a low range 24 tooth sprocket, and a high range 40 tooth sprocket. to give me acceptable road speed and excellent hill climbing and heavy haulage towing capacity.

 

[2old2learn]

I i'm holding my own in a group of fast guys, admittedly in the middle of the peloton; taking full advantage of the slipstream.

It will only get harder as you age. 38-42 is about the limit these days for the Tour de France. In local riding you'll not commonly ride with riders that intense Thank God! I told my local riding group that I'll bring my MAB to ride with them on some of their hundred milers and be their Domestique for them. A lot safer than having those cars drive up and try to hand them food and drinks among the peloton. I'll just be another bike in the group handing out refreshments! These guys cruise about 28-32mph when I've been riding with them. Way more than I like to ride at on my road bike.