Kill switch wiring question

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Oh no, I wasn't suggesting I change the throttle to the left side..... Just send the kill switch wires to the horn and the horn wires to the coil. If I hadn't done such a good job of shrink wrapping the kill switch, connections, I would just try it, but I hate to mess with it now, so I probably will just keep the kill switch on the right side. More than anything, I have wondered .... why all of the electronics, in the kill switch?? (That made me question the idea of switching them)

I checked out your bike. That's tough looking bike! They are getting harder to find; Really good you could find one! I look forward to seeing it when finished.

Jim

Thanks. Can't wait to get it running. I'm waiting on a crank axle that allows me to use the original chain ring & bearings because the kit 3 piece axle & chain ring didn't fit well on my bike. Hope to get that part next week. Also getting a fuel filter before its first start up.

I wish someone would make a little 12 volt stator genorator (like the ones used on motorcycles) so we can run lights & other 12 volt stuff through the 4 stroke motor. I was thinking of a way to rig something up to my motor at some point so I can draw electrical power while the motor is on.

Phantombikes.com has a little genorator that can hook up to these 4 stroke motors but it's limited to a head light at best and they are a bit pricy.
 
Fired up my motor today for the first time. Everything from the throttle to the trannny works fine but the kill switch failed to turn off the motor. Looks like I'll need to re-think my wiring set up. Might need to splice the green wire a different way instead of using the plug.

What would be the best place to bolt the ground? I don't have a way to test the metal to see if its compatible with the ground wire material. I was able to shut down the motor by unbolting the ground from where I had it.
 
I have my kill switch mounted on the handlebars and the ground for it is bolted directly to the engine. It's always worked for me.
 

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I have my kill switch mounted on the handlebars and the ground for it is bolted directly to the engine. It's always worked for me.

I guess it was because of where I bolted my ground. I'll move it to where you have yours & give it another try.

Also whats a good way to connect the green positive wires together? I don't think the plug I had it hoked up to was connecting them together very well. I think that's why my kill switch failed to operate correctly.

Hope my kill switch isn't defective.
 
The 142F's with the long wire and connector are the easiest, it's the ones with the red kill switch that get harder.

Just run your handlebar kill button wire down with the throttle cable to the gas tank, and the engines kill wire up with the throttle cable or gas line to the gas tank and connect the pair there.

4SkillButton.jpg


Color don't matter.
Just whack both pair off where you want them to meet with ~1.5" overlap.
Then slide 2.5" piece of shrink wrap on one of the wire pairs first, then stagger cut the 2 pairs.

A 'stagger cut' means you leave one wire longer on each pair so when you strip and solder them together the splices are a good 1" apart so you don't need to tape them to isolate them, just slide the shrink wrap over them and heat it up.

Note: There are no electronics in the throttles kill button.
It's just a momentary switch and wire color does not matter.
 
I had a leaking fuel valve so I'm waiting on a replacement before I try another start up.

Also quick question, if my kill switch doesn't work again is it OK to pull the spark plug out to turn the engine off? I wanna know if its OK or not so I don't ruin my engine or something. What I did last time was I just turned off my fuel valve & let the carburetor run out of fuel.
 
All you need to do to shut the engine off is to ground the coil wire. I don't recommend pulling the spark plug boot to do so.
 
Also quick question, if my kill switch doesn't work again is it OK to pull the spark plug out to turn the engine off?
Sure.
Had to do it several times.
Depending on what you are wearing and standing in (barefoot in water) it can be shocking experience, but it won't hurt your engine any.
 
Oh no, I wasn't suggesting I change the throttle to the left side..... Just send the kill switch wires to the horn and the horn wires to the coil. If I hadn't done such a good job of shrink wrapping the kill switch, connections, I would just try it, but I hate to mess with it now, so I probably will just keep the kill switch on the right side. More than anything, I have wondered .... why all of the electronics, in the kill switch?? (That made me question the idea of switching them)

I checked out your bike. That's tough looking bike! They are getting harder to find; Really good you could find one! I look forward to seeing it when finished.

Jim

It doesn't really matter about the circuits wired into the kill switch, the horn and kit kill switch are two different types of switches. The kit kill switch is normally closed, meaning until you press the button, the circuit is closed, and pushing the button interrupts the circuit. The horn button is normally open, meaning until you press it the circuit is open, and pushing it closes the circuit. So hooking the kill switch wires to the horn would actually mean the bike wouldn't run without the button being pushed.
 
The kit kill switch is normally closed, meaning until you press the button, the circuit is closed .
I don't know what kind of kit you are using, but throttle kill buttons are normally open and close when pushed to simply ground the coil wire to kill the engine.

It won't hurt to use the throttle button for your horn and a different NO button for the kill.
Just make sure it's easy to get to get to so you can kill your engine in the event of a problem like a stuck throttle or you fall over and get pinned.

If your gas petcock is not bad you can stop a leak by wrapping the threads with Teflon tape and screwing it back in.
 
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