...Now I've worked my way up to full custom.
I'm building a non-kit bike from the bare frame up, including building my own wheels.
And this isn't a bike that will be sold, it's just for me.
In fact this bike I'm building is my dream bike.
Outstanding!
Especially building your own wheels...
That is one thing I simply don't have the patience and skill to do right, don't really care to learn, and wouldn't like doing kind of like under sink plumbing these days.
'Dream Builds' for me have almost always been worth the money to me.
My problem is the dream keeps changing ;-}
Yes, KC is a highly skilled and qualified builder.
But we all could be if we tried harder.
Forums like this make everyone a better builder, they have sure helped me, I return the favor when I can.
A competent shop helper is how I manage.
Some things simply need 2 people to do right the first time in short order anyway, but even then we don't build and release a bike in one day.
I always laugh at the MB kit promos of '2 hours and simple hand tools and your are done!'.
Pffttt.
We typically spend that much time just on the handlebars, brakes and cable matching.
Pull cables are a mystery to many, and like with me spoking a wheel, don't want to know how or do it.
Understandable, but to me handlebar layout and cable/wire management are the 2 easiest ways to bring home both a comfortable and safe rider experience, and either make or break a bikes visual appeal.
The only pull cable you can't easily cut to fit is the throttle cable, it has nubs on each end.
*yes there are ways to make your own nubs and custom cables but usually not needed for a nice clean look.
I run the throttle cable best I can for a minimal protrusion in the front, then length match everything else to it.
You really need a good cable cutter to make this easy, I paid like $45 for mine and after hundreds of cuts it still does the job.
It's hard to explain in words how to size a cable and I don't have pics, but what you are sizing is the outer housing.
This is what allows a pull cable to maintain a solid connection between cable ends.
I put the handlebar lever on, run the cable where and how I want it to go, then mark where the excess cable is at the brake/shifter/etc.
Then pull the sheath away from the lever a good 5" with the inner cable still attached and cut your marked end off, inner cable and sheath together.
You may need to nip the end, or maybe use a stick pin for a clean round end of the sheath, but then just push the inner cable back in where it belongs, put and end cap on and you have a perfectly sized cable.
CAUTION!
The inner cable needs to protrude past the end of the cable sheath to attach!
If you cut both cables in place you won't have anything to connect, that is why you slide the sheath down from the lever, to leave you the extra out the end.
That is just one thing to up your game.
Ignition wiring is another.
Handle those two things right and it don't look like a bike with kit slammed on it, it looks and functions like it was to be there.
Like ButterBean said, it's not rocket science, it is just taking the time to detail for the big picture as you go.
Time consuming yes, worth it?
Well, all I can say is it's worth it to me to do the best I can every time.