Carby My C Clip does not agree with me

Waxxumus

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Well, when receiving the bike the C Clip was in the position of 2nd most lean (2nd from the top) and when warming up and riding, I often get white smoke, plumes of it. Once warmed up and the choke opened I get much less white smoke, but the engine endlessly 4 strokes.
Bear in mind here that I am on my 3rd tank after running a gallon of 16:1 through it at this richness. Lots and lots of white smoke.
It is apparent that the spark plug has been fouled and is covered in black.

I attempted to see if any performance gain could be made or if the engine would run better if I placed the C-Clip at the highest notch (Leanest)
The engine Idles much much better, ended up having to turn the idle screw down because of this.
And it warms up quickly. Almost too quickly. It has me worried.
When riding in the 2nd notch from the top, even under heavy load, i can normally touch my engine without getting 3rd degree burns.
When riding with choke all the way open and leanest mix @ 6oz oil per gallon. roughly 1:20/22, the engine gets quite hot, hot enough to burn you if you touch it momentarily.
But there is no white smoke.

I suppose a plug chop or 2 is in order. But the plug is already fowled.... not sure if this will affect results.
In your experience what is a good operating temperature for these motors? F or C i dont care.

I have a laser measure for heat, and can take the temp of the engine quite quickly and accurately.

Or is there a way to judge the heat by hand? Or should the engine be hot enough to give you char marks across your leg if you graze it? XD
It sure picks up a hell of alot faster. and i can actually get it to 2 stroke for awhile.:geek::geek:

Also, would you advise me running the engine richer for awhile longer?
I am only on my 3rd tank of gas.

Its a Stinger SD kit, with NT carb. I could imagine the limited air flow of the stock air filter causing some enriching of the mixture or causing 4 stroking, but it 4 strokes with the choke about half way up, and rides exactly the same at half choke as if the bike were on the 2nd notch at fully opened choke. The idle also shot up dramatically after reseating the carb, pretty sure there was a small air leak, plus the securing screw was vibrated loose to the point you could move the carb around. (I dont believe my carb came with a gasket to properly seal it, have used rubber o ring to great effect.)

Since Im still slightly in the break in period, and have been reluctant to go full throttle too often, would you reccomend running oily until i have leaned out the gas to see if its just the rich mixture causing my 4 stroking and loss of power and plumes of white smoke? Or should i ride it with the choke half on, and warm it up at 10% open?
 
I'd go to 32:1 (4oz/gal) and run it like it is, but be sure to check plug every tank or so to be sure it doesn't get a lot leaner as the rings seat better.
 
It is apparent that the spark plug has been fouled and is covered in black.
Spark plugs have a Heat Rating in the middle of their number.
They vary by maker, for NGK plugs the higher the number in the middle the more heat it dissipates out of the engine.

Look at the size difference in the white insulator length where the plug threads are.

chartheatratingflowpath-2.gif


The more white you have in contact where the threads are, the more heat is transferred to the cooling fins, and the pink is just providing an air gap to keep heat in.

* If the engine is to be operated at high RPM, under a heavy load, or at high temperatures for long periods a colder heat range may be needed.
* Conversely, if the engine is to be operated at low speeds or at low temperatures for long periods, a hotter heat range might be needed to prevent fouling.

What you want is a plug cold enough to dissipate all you can, but not foul the plug.
Your engine is not getting hot enough for the plug to self-clean from the heat so drop the middle number to make it hotter.

I didn't catch where you live but this is the **** plug if you live in the heat like I do, this is the plug I use to replace all 2-stoke engine stock spark plugs.
NGK 5944 (BPR7HIX) Iridium.
http://www.sickbikeparts.com/catalo...ucts_id=141&osCsid=q1o612ltvu6cn5j74rd9ofvnf6

You may need the colder 6 if you are fouling out...
http://www.sickbikeparts.com/catalo...ucts_id=111&osCsid=q1o612ltvu6cn5j74rd9ofvnf6

Heck, get both and see, regardless you will see an instant improvement in efficiency and they are idiot proof, they come pre-gapped and not to be re-gapped!
 
I have a BPR7HIX in the mail :D
All is good
Will get a 6 ordered from local parts store later.
 
What do you mean crassius?
Toward the lean notch, or where it originally was one down from the top?
 
For instance, I have to start it @ 40% choke with the 2nd notch down to keep it idling before it bogs down and quits. (It has been running like this since the beginning)
At the Top notch, it idles no problemo @ 15% choke open, never loses power or dies when going from complete stop (Which happens on the 2nd notch down), but the heat of the motor is just concerning.
Its as if I just started it the first time and the seals were fresh and full of friction, and the motor is hot enough to cook meat on.
On the 2nd notch, the engine eventually worked itself to the point where at 100% open choke the engine can be touched for a few seconds without burning yourself. Is this too cold?
 
Well, after giving the plug a good scrape with a bristle brush, and removing the gunk, I did a Plug Chop.

At mid to high rpms, its just where it needs to be. That milky brown color. Not black, not white and burnt.

Hopefully this NGK sparkplug makes more improvement. It already pulls drastically harder off the line.

My 4 stroking could be due to the fact that my spark plug is gapped at .038

Think i should shorten that?
 
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You don't gap that Iridium you bought, it even comes with a protective cardboard sleeve over the threads to insure it doesn't get altered in shipment.

It takes a larger plug wrench than stock so get yourself a 13/16th long socket.
 
:D

You don't gap that Iridium you bought, it even comes with a protective cardboard sleeve over the threads to insure it doesn't get altered in shipment.

It takes a larger plug wrench than stock so get yourself a 13/16th long socket.

I have heard this many times.
Im assuming because of the ease of breaking the little arm.
But rest assured I shouldn't be touching the gap on the iridium, Im using stock at the moment, and Ill try bringing the gap down in the mean time.
Luckily enough, I have a box of assorted tools to pull from and a couple sets of metric and non sockets.
Life is easier with the right tools :D
 
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