from 4 stroke to 2 stroke,and more issues to come .clutch

[Zackiriyah]

ive been stuck on clutch adjustment,when ive tried inserting the chain even with clutch lever pulled in,sometimes the clutch sprocket wouldnt budge. ,so i took off the clutch plate and the flower nut just popped right off,ok i wasnt much worrid as long as i could install the chain..so installed the chain,and flower nut ,and tested to see if if my wheel would turn..still stuck,

 

[KCvale]

Your chain is binding on the back clutch cover, the one with the arm.

Take it off, you'll see the marks on the inside front flat part.
Just grind it down or cut it out there.
You don't see it because of the magneto cover, and its not a sealed area.

 

[Zackiriyah]

thank you kc,looks like ill be stuck then,im unable to take off the clutch sprocket cover at the moment,do to a stripped screw head ,but will update later if problem has been fixed.should i grind the teeth down or just cut out a part of the back of the cover?

 

[KCvale]

Just cut or grind the cover, it only hits by 1 or 2mm but that's all it takes.
I have a picture of the problem somewhere, just can't remember where ;-}

 

[Zackiriyah]

so i finally got the cover off,by just using a bigger flat head,i sawed off a part of the cover ,now the chain is moving freely,and now yet another problem is revealed and im rather confused cause searching up,many people are saying different things.
The cdi wire connection to the magneto,and the kill switch wires.
My kill switch wires are red,and black. the magneto: dark blue,white,and black and the cdi :light blue and black.
from the magneto to the cdi I have the dark blue connected to the light blue ,and the black connected to the black.from the kill switch to the cdi,i have the red to the light blue ,and the black to black.
to test it. I unscrewed the spark plug and attached it to the cdi boot<what ever you call it> and placed it to the cylinder .with the clutch out i turned the pedal crank.no spark
I detached the killswitch wires.and tried it.still no spark
I have the frame grounded out .battery neg to frame..
Would that interfere?

 

[KCvale]

I detached the killswitch wires.and tried it.still no spark
I have the frame grounded out .battery neg to frame..
Would that interfere?

No.
Check your plug gap, .32 is good.
Did you remove the nub on the plug end?

Got an Ohm meter?
Harbor Freight has multi-meters for $8.

My troubleshooting procedure is simple these days.

Disconnect everything.

Ohm the black magneto wire to a head bolt, it should read a dead short.
If not, check the ground tab on the magneto.
Note:
The new skyhawk CDI's have no white wire, ground is the lower connector but it has a wire from it to ground.

Old style mags with a white wire have a tab out of the mag that solders directly to the mag base and they can come loose, just hold it down and re-solder.

Ohm the magneto from the black and blue wire, 320-380 ohms is ideal, an open or dead short means a bad magneto if the wires are connected.

Ohm the CDI in the 10K-20K scale.
Red+ meter probe to CDI black wire.
Black- meter probe to the spark plug cap.
You should get about 6.9K ohms.

If not it could be a bad wire or cap.
Unscrew the plug wire at the cdi, use pliers or even cut it off and dig the junk out if need be and do the same test above again to the cable screw on the CDI.
If that works get a new wire and plug cap, if not you have a bad CDI.

If all of that is good there is only one thing left, the magnet.

That was indeed the problem with this repair on a new build with a 2014 gasbike.net front page engine kit.

When you pull the 4 bolts out of the magneto mount it should slam itself against the magnet, I mean to the point where it is hard to even get your first bolt in.
A weak magnet that lets you move the mag around pretty easily is not strong enough to create a spark which is what this repair had.

Magnet replaced, problem solved and my repair is done.

 

[Zackiriyah]

I think ive ,possibly fried the magneto,and also the cdi is bad,tried a different wire,still no spark.I dont have a multimeter at the moment.
so most likely ill be replacing both the mag and the cdi ,and im getting a ngk spark plug with it,next time ill take extra precaution.

 

[Waxxumus]

Gap Plug anywhere inbetween .20 and .32
This is not reliable information.
gap it until it runs correctly would be the correct answer. but cant get a straight one.

 

[Zackiriyah]

what do you meant by gap it?

 

[KCvale]

I think ive ,possibly fried the magneto
I dont have a multimeter at the moment.
so most likely ill be replacing both the mag and the cdi.

So you are just going to throw $30+ at parts guessing opposed to just buying an $8 tool to find out where the problem is?
http://www.harborfreight.com/7-function-multimeter-98025.html

A Multi-meter is tool you will wish you had long ago once you understand how it works.

Is this fuse bad?
Is there power to this outlet?
Is this battery dead?
Are these two points connected?
Is there 12V here?

Granted I have an electronics degree but you don't need one to use a meter.
The instructions are above.

You need a tool for gaping the spark plug too.
Though you can always use a set of feeler strips, you can usually find a gapping disc sitting on the counter of your local auto parts stroke.
Heck, they are made to even be a keychain flob.

It short it's just a disc with a tapered edge and numbers for the side at any given point.
You just slide the edge in the gap in your plug and bend the plug end to close at the desired gap.

You want as big as you get and keep spark.
No spark?
Make the gap a little smaller.

Note that does not apply to Iridium spark plugs, they come pre-gapped.