You have to leave the primary drive chain a little loose for proper engagement. Too tight and it puts sideways pressure on the clutch bell and the clutch overheats and fades. If the chain is loose enough, then when you twist the throttle and the shoes fly out, the weight actually balances the bell on the shaft, if that makes any sense. This puts much less wear and tear on the bushing. Yes, it is still a cheap design but the qmatic which costs twice as much as the agk drive, still uses a maxtorque centrifugal clutch. I know the qmatic is very good and reliable, but other than some issues with the clutch due to lack of knowledge of tuning, gearing and maintenance, I've not had any problems with my agk drive either. It's not always true that the most expensive is the best, and while there may be better options, there are ways to get what you can afford to work for you. You're a professional builder, and the bikes you build are either paid for by customers or with play money you made selling a couple extra bikes. I seriously doubt that you know what it's like to have to build a bike using whatever parts you can afford. The bike I'm working on has already taken me a year, and its got about a grand worth of parts in it. I built my own wheels, and I made modifications to the agk mounting plate to be able to mount my predator engine vertically. I'm using hydraulic motorcycle forks because despite the weight, you can't beat the comfort level and they are tuneable by the amount of oil you add. So I'm not cheaping out, I'm building what I can afford and I'm doing the best job I can. It really gets under my skin when people just assume that if its cheap it sucks. Maybe the clutch ain't that great, but there is a really good clutch called the draggin skin, also made by max torque but of much better quality and more tuneable than the ss clutch, it also costs 150 so if the mods I've made to this clutch don't make it perform how I want, there's also that clutch whenever I can afford it.
