My first build! Designed to look as much like a moped as possible

The bike was $140 at Walmart, a Schwinn beach cruiser with a built-in, very strong rear rack. The motor kit is a Dax 80cc. The electrical system was built using parts ordered off ebay; the total cost was about $125, including the scooter-style rear trunk. The tail/brake light, headlight, and turn signals are all LED. The battery and wiring are contained in the trunk, with plenty of space left over for storage. I bought a 6-fuse auto fuse box instead of using inline fuses, so the headlight, tail/brake light, and turn signals have their own fuses. I don't know if that's necessary, but I did it anyway because...well, why not? I have a 12 volt, 1.5 amp horn but haven't wired it yet, and haven't mounted the front turn signals yet. All of the parts were made to run directly off the 12 volt battery and did not require any inline resistors to prevent them from blowing, simplifying the wiring enormously. The handlebar-mounted control switch was for a GY6 scooter, purchased off ebay for less than $7. Generic motorcycle rear-view mirrors were $9 for the set. This build was meant to look as much as possible like a real moped to attract as little attention from the police as possible.

Oh, yeah, the trunk has a backrest, which is kind of nice! The reason for the inverted grip shifter on the left handlebar is that the bike has a 7-speed rear derailer, but I didn't want to use a thumb shifter, so I got a twist shifter and simply installed it upside down on the left side instead of the right.

Comments, suggestions, and potential improvements are welcome!

 

[johnsteve]

awesome build. where did you get the backrest/luggage rack?

 

[rjriggs]

The luggage rack is part of the bicycle frame. The bike is a cheap Schwinn beach cruiser I got from Walmart's web site. They have a lot of models with frames that include very sturdy, integrated luggage racks. The trunk was purchased off of Ebay for $20 and attached to the luggage rack with ties.

 

[butre]

those welded on racks are notorious for cracking. keep an eye on it

 

[bailsafe]

Nice build! Pretty curious as to how you did the brake lights/turn signals/horn/whatever. Are they from a motorcycle?

 

[rjriggs]

The headlight, turn signals, brake light, and horn are all designed to run off 12 volts and require no inline resistors. I did get a little fuse box off of ebay so I could protect them with fuses, though. I still have to do finish the brake light. I'm thinking of using a reed switch and a magnet, placing the reed switch on the handlebar and the magnet on the brake lever. When you pull the brake lever, the magnet comes in proximity to the reed switch and should activate the brake light. I'll let you know how it works out as soon as my limited budget allows.

 

[aquielisunari]

Potential improvement? Have you researched the engine mounted chain tensioner? Maybe removing a link or three with a 415(I purchased mine for $13 off of ebay) chain breaker. I did that and it quieted my bike down as I'm going down the road. My chain is pretty much straight without the tensioner there. I loosened my rear drop-out bolts and pulled my wheel forward just a bit to connect the masterlink and then pulled it(the wheel) back as much as possible, keeping tension on it as I tightened the bolts. Did you use Loctite on any bolts that may work themselves loose? I've now disassembled that bike because the parts are getting a new home on a Raw Black Soul Stomper.

Have you considered a hub mounted sprocket adapter? As the bike sits, most of the force used in propelling the wheel forward is a one sided deal. The hub adapter connects to the hub and spokes instead of just the spokes.

 

[rjriggs]

Thanks for the advice! I will try removing some links when I get a 415 chain breaker. As for the Lo to ctite, I've learned the value of thread locker the hard way, like having to hold the gas tank in place with my knees because the bolts rattled loose while I was riding. As far as a hub mounted sprocket adapter goes, I'm planning to get a shift kit for this bike, so it won't be necessary. In the meantime, I've had no problems with the rear wheel or sprocket; however, if I planned to use a regular sprocket drive for an indefinite period of time, I would definitely get a hub mounted adapter.

Potential improvement? Have you researched the engine mounted chain tensioner? Maybe removing a link or three with a 415(I purchased mine for $13 off of ebay) chain breaker. I did that and it quieted my bike down as I'm going down the road. My chain is pretty much straight without the tensioner there. I loosened my rear drop-out bolts and pulled my wheel forward just a bit to connect the masterlink and then pulled it(the wheel) back as much as possible, keeping tension on it as I tightened the bolts. Did you use Loctite on any bolts that may work themselves loose? I've now disassembled that bike because the parts are getting a new home on a Raw Black Soul Stomper.

Have you considered a hub mounted sprocket adapter? As the bike sits, most of the force used in propelling the wheel forward is a one sided deal. The hub adapter connects to the hub and spokes instead of just the spokes.

 

[scrollerguy]

If you search you will find some saddlebags on ebay for $40 dollars or so. I put some on mine, and they fit good. You'll have to fabricate, and they are wired for 194 lights. They would go good with your topbox.

Good Luck.