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The_ALEman wrote in part
First, your motormount should _not_ be set up like that! It won't be stable! You need to flip the whole u-bolt around! Make sure the rears are right, too!
I do understand how the front mount is supposed to install, but I anticipated the need for more room to make chain adjustments, ...any how.....I now see that I can flip it around, rears are good to go, Thanks.
Your ratio numbers seem off, too. This is what I get from (10T+35T+10T+48T) and your 30T crank to 7-speed set:
Oh these are not my calculations I use the TZI ratio calculator, I dont have enough sense to figger ratios thru a cassette.
The initial intent is to replicate the output reduction found on the 2 stroke (5:1??)...right?
Basically a flimsy illegal underpowered motorcycle that won't really be pedal-able with the engine running. It might work until your derailleur grenades or it all eats a gear.
Sorry I just dont understand....why do I want to pedal with a running engine???
I dunno how you think you can get engine PTO to SBP input with only 2 gears, either. It's gonna stick out a lot.
Well thats why I'm here asking questions, like... whats going to stick out a lot?????
I recommend a PMR jackshft, run your 35T #35 on that with the 10T clutch.
I'm liking the idea of the PMR setup....Would this work:
10t off the clutch to my 35t on the PMR should get me 3.5:1
10t off the PMR to 17t on SBP jackshaft should get me 1.7:1 for a total of 5.95:1
From here a 10t off the SBP jackshaft to:
1) the 48t at the crank and 30t back to the cassette.
Or
2) a 44t at the rear wheel, my sprockets wont allow the passage of the 2 piece hub clamp, so a 44t rear sprocket will need to be mounted to the disk brake hub. Im guessing a 44t...base on the above info should I go higher or lower???
I'd like to keep the shifting abilities, but perhaps I cant.
Do you have a measurement on the PMR from front hole center to center of rear shaft? Anybody???
This is a good suggestion, thanks a bunch ALEman, I appreciate it. Ron
Also keep in mind that derailleur chains run at angles in certain gears. With your motor, this means some gears may not be usable.
Check your chain angle in each gear so that you know which gears are safe before gearing.
Yes...I am aware that all gears might not be usable, Thanks again... ALEman
KCvale wrote in part
You need a 4 to 5:1 gear reduction between the engine output and the jackshaft input.
Your clutch doesn't even fuelly engage until ~3500 rpm.
I think as suggested above that I could get 5.95:1 using the PMR and SBP set up
Not many transfer case choices for a Pred, Q-matic has one, ~$300, and it's big.
It's just wide and too long to use with a SBP JS kit directly.
Without ever handling one, I came to the same conclusion, not being able to readily connect from the Q-matic to the SBP, and the cost .
The thing is, you don't really need gears with a 79cc, especially not 7-speed carousel gears.
Just running a 79 direct drive to to 44T will get you going in a hurry and top 40 mph.
I dont understand......Can I just run off the clutch 10t to a rear 44t with an idler to keep things tight?
But, I suppose if you could fit a ~55T sprocket on the left side of the jackshaft you might be able to pull it off without a transfer case.
See above...I'm looking at a 35t and a 17t running off the PMR setup....
Otherwise you are looking at either going direct drive and wasting the shift kit, or just changing engines to the smaller 4-stroker and transfer case the shift kit is deigned for.
Can you explain 'direct drive'
Again KCvale, Thanks for the suggestions, I appreciate it all. Ron
Other Notes:
You don't need a dual pull brake lever, you have no clutch, it's better to make them independent.
As brute mentioned, you have your front muffler clamp on backwards, the U in the u-bolt goes around the frame tube in front, the flat metal of the base attaches between the flat clamp piece and it's nuts.
Best make sure the 2 back ones are right as well.
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