I've thought of going tensionerless on my next in-frame build but that would mean getting a different sprocket size to help get the proper chain slack level. My first 2 stroke bike I had a couple years ago had the kit tensioner & it slipped off destroying a few of the spokes in my rear wheel. Really wish they made these kits so they won't need a tensioner out of the box. To me, it's just another part that could cause problems down the road.
Sprocket Size and Removal of Chain Tensioner
- Thread starter bakaneko
- Start date
The_Aleman
Well-Known Member
I spose I was lucky when I ran chinagirls, I never had a problem with the kit idlers. Perhaps because I never treated them as a chain tensioner.
bakaneko
Well-Known Member
Guys, I got the new 36T sprocket on from the stock 44T sprocket and wanted to report the performance differences and my thoughts. I know a lot of this would be old news for many but hopefully it will help newer folks decide.
Rider: light rider
Terrain: 50% flat, 40% low to moderate hills, 10% difficult hills (suburbs Wisconsin)
Bike: 26" standard mountain bike at a slightly below average build quality
44T cruise: 18 to 20
44T acceleration to cruise: 1-2 sec
44T max speed: 24 (at much as I want to push the RPMs)
44T low-moderate hill: 1 mph speed reduction
44T difficult hill: 2-3 mph reduction
36T cruise: 24 to 28
36T acceleration to cruise: 2-3 sec
36T max speed: 30+
36T low-moderate hill: 2-3 mph reduction
36T difficult hill: 5-7 mph reduction and I pedaled (but this is an insane hill)
Overall, I think the 36T sprocket is definitely worth the sacrifice to hill performance. The acceleration to cruising speed is just a paltry ~1 second longer, and unless the hill is insane I am fine with the speed reduction or helping the motor along a little with pedaling. The other benefit is that the sprocket I ordered seem to be pure steel and did not bend in the rubber mounts unlike the stock sprocket which is slightly bend due to quality. There was some difficult adjusting my tensioner and engine setting to fit the 36T sprocket but its probably more my low mechanical skill than a difficulty per say. The sprocket cost me $15 off of eBay. Here is a picture of the size comparison; sorry for the blurriness. :helmet:
Rider: light rider
Terrain: 50% flat, 40% low to moderate hills, 10% difficult hills (suburbs Wisconsin)
Bike: 26" standard mountain bike at a slightly below average build quality
44T cruise: 18 to 20
44T acceleration to cruise: 1-2 sec
44T max speed: 24 (at much as I want to push the RPMs)
44T low-moderate hill: 1 mph speed reduction
44T difficult hill: 2-3 mph reduction
36T cruise: 24 to 28
36T acceleration to cruise: 2-3 sec
36T max speed: 30+
36T low-moderate hill: 2-3 mph reduction
36T difficult hill: 5-7 mph reduction and I pedaled (but this is an insane hill)
Overall, I think the 36T sprocket is definitely worth the sacrifice to hill performance. The acceleration to cruising speed is just a paltry ~1 second longer, and unless the hill is insane I am fine with the speed reduction or helping the motor along a little with pedaling. The other benefit is that the sprocket I ordered seem to be pure steel and did not bend in the rubber mounts unlike the stock sprocket which is slightly bend due to quality. There was some difficult adjusting my tensioner and engine setting to fit the 36T sprocket but its probably more my low mechanical skill than a difficulty per say. The sprocket cost me $15 off of eBay. Here is a picture of the size comparison; sorry for the blurriness. :helmet:
Nice sprocket setup. If you have gears on your bike hills aren't too much of an issue I got gears on my friction drive mountain bike so when I encounter a steep enough incline I just ease off the throttle & pedal up it on a lower gear.
aquielisunari
Active Member
I'm having trouble with this. I am fairly new to MBs so I need help understanding how a smaller sprocket size would mean no chain tensioner. I didn't like stock tensioner so I went with an engine mounted tensioner as you can see https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UqDusg8VNgM . I'm a bigger rider so I went the other way with a 48 tooth sprocket.
bakaneko
Well-Known Member
Sorry, let me clarify, originally I intended to remove the chain tensioner with the 36T sprocket but was unable to do so with the tools and materials available. I have the tensioner on there now. I read a guy do it in another thread who reduce the size of his sprocket. I think the idea is just the smaller sprocket will allow for chain clearance from the engine since the diameter of the smaller sprocket is less. I guess something like the below crude drawing. I just read it once so I guess it wasn't that reliable.
Nice bike btw. I want to do a fat tire build in the spring with a big engine.
aquielisunari
Active Member
Thank you. Nice graphic illustration. It does make sense. I'll take some more slack out of my chain after I get a master-link for my bicycle's drive chain.
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