Very impressive, have you used a reed valve in the past?
No it will be my first time though. I have been studying it a long time. Of course it would be better to have a reed feeding directly into the carters. But in reality even if you do this, there is very little room to make a third port coming up due to the limited mating surface area of the cylinder to the carters. I have been able to greatly widen the transfer volume/width and window length. This will help me get alot of charge through the two side ports, but I have outer transfer walls of about 1 mm in thickness before the fins start. It takes a steady hand and eagle eye. If you go to far, you will have a hole in the cylinder. Since I was going to lathe off 5 mm from the bottom, I just sliced off the bottom fins and welded some extra aluminum to the transfer outer wall area and then lathed it down to have a wider mating surface. I widened the transfers flow area after doing that. My transfer walls on my carters have had extra aluminum welded to them a long time already. I just added a little layer of jbweld inside here and there so they would match up exactly to the transfers on the cylinder.
The best final solution would be to cast your own cylinder with good flow area ports/transfers and cut an insertable hardened instrumental steel cylinder (with thin little bridges for your wider/longer ports and transfer windows) and press it into the new custom cast cylinder. In that case it would be important to realize that grinding or dremeling such a super hard steel will be nearly impossible unless you use diamond bits. So you should get it designed right the first time. Little bridges may need some little walls that start off sharp like a knife and divide the flow before reaching the bridge. This will make it gradual and prevent the charge flow from hitting a flat and sudden inside of the bridge wall. This will need to be desigined into your cast though, and by all means it needs to be in perfect alignment with the bridges on the hardened speed steel cylinder. Such a cylinder would be worth the work though. Maximum flow area and a good size flow area in the third port and a steel cylinder that will never wear out. Welding a reed box mount(in two halves) onto the two halves of the carter will require some patience and good judgement in design and execution. I try to enjoy such things, then I begin to get good results ;-)
I use some of these too. They make an engine perform alot better. More power, more peace of mind, more miles of racing it like a madman.
http://www.techlinecoatings.com/hi-performance/bs-internal-engine-coatings.html
I use the DFL-1 dry lubricant coating on the pins and piston skirts and the CBC1 thermal barrier for inside of the head and on the piston crown. It looks as though CBC1 is now replaced by CBC2, but it is also now available to the genreal public. Parts have to be sandblasted with a specific abrasive grit size, preferably using aluminum oxide as the abrasive. 20 psi for aluminum and 40 psi for steel. Then wash with acetone and do not touch with bare fingers or anything but a really clean cloth before applying coatings. The skirts have to be taped off before applying the ceramic thermal barrier to the crown and after that application, the crown needs to be taped off so the skirts can be sprayed with a single thin layer too. So use surgical gloves when handling so to not screw it up. When it is good and dry, it then goes into an oven for an hour at 350 F. The oven or grill should not be used for food again after that though.