SBP jacksaft length, do I need extra?

U should use the 10inch shaft then cut it down after u get the right length the standard 5 inch shaft will be too short to run in the left side bearing
 
Anytime I wish I would have been more tech savvy when I started my builds I'm not really into smart phones and computers
 
I advise not cutting the shaft, if it's too long it don't matter unless it's soo long you get past the keyway, cut it however and getting the sprocket and washers on will just add to the frustration.
 
I advise not cutting the shaft, if it's too long it don't matter unless it's soo long you get past the keyway, cut it however and getting the sprocket and washers on will just add to the frustration.

Oh, so the keyway doesn't run the full length of the shaft? I have looked at the product picture on the SBP website and it shows a jackshaft with a keyway running the full length.
I don't mind cutting and rounding the end. Although it will be tricky to get the cut straight with a hacksaw.

Is there _any_ of the standard kit jackshaft still protruding from the ends of the sprocket (or LHS bearing) when the LHS tensioner is fitted?

Also, related question: is the chainguard (small sprocket cover thingy on RHS) made of a flexible or hard material?
I need to be able to remove the RHS chain without tools, by just pulling it off the RHS tensioner and peeling it away from the chainring then lifting it off. If the chainguard is flexible enough to fanangle the chain out then I can use it, and having the small sprocket 5mm overhanging (as long as it still definitelyyy works) would be okay -ish.
If I can't get the chain out that way then I will have to drill, tap and make a disc a-la-fabien to give some protection. I suppose it won't matter if I have a stack of washers in there but I was hoping it could be a bit tidier..

Long distance theoretical engineering o_O:rolleyes::rolleyes::confused::D hahaha
 
Oh, so the keyway doesn't run the full length of the shaft?
Actually yes, the SBP keyway goes the whole length, I was thinking about my 10G shafts.

Also, related question: is the chainguard (small sprocket cover thingy on RHS) made of a flexible or hard material?
I need to be able to remove the RHS chain without tools, by just pulling it off the RHS tensioner and peeling it away from the chainring then lifting it off.
The SBP chainguard is ridged plastic in 2 parts.
You glue one part to the cover, and other piece with the guard screws onto that.

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I don't use them much, either a disc wider that the sprocket on the end or a custom cover.

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The only time you really need to worry about that chain guard is if you wreck and get trapped under the bike with long pants that get caught in it.

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It's not the least bit friendly.

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Not not friendly at all.

The full topic about that is here.
It's gruesome.
http://kcsbikes.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=163
 
I've read it, it's quite eye wateringly gruesome. :(
Thanks for the info re the type of plastic. I'll hopefully be able to get a disc, then. I thought I would have to. Wish the shafts came drilled right through and tapped at one end..
I finally found exactly where it was I got the idea about the sprockets hanging off the shaft.. It's the yellow and black GT LTS (3?) 21 speed built by gasbikesproject some years ago. My LTS 5 should be here within the week, hopefully I can make it better having seen a lot of examples of what can be done. :)
 
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I've read it, it's quite eye wateringly gruesome. :(
Thanks for the info re the type of plastic. I'll hopefully be able to get a disc, then. I thought I would have to.
Wish the shafts came drilled right through and tapped at one end..
My 10G 4-stroke long shaft transfer cases shaft comes drilled and tapped.
Heck, even the stock 4G's come that way for the left side drive.

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I just cut a disc out of the flat plastic plate the shift kit uses bigger than the sprocket and screw it to end to keep long pant legs for getting caught in it the same way the chain guard does on the lower sprockets.

Heck, I seldom wear long pants at all (hitting 100F already here) but safety first, especially considering what CAN happen in a fluke wreck.
 
Yes indeed, safety first!
I won't be able to use a chainguard on the outer chainring because of the planned method to make it pedal powered/ legal on public roads. But
I will make sure to wear goggles to drill the hole for the guard disc. :cool:
 
Yes indeed, safety first!
I won't be able to use a chainguard on the outer chainring because of the planned method to make it pedal powered/ legal on public roads. But
I will make sure to wear goggles to drill the hole for the guard disc. :cool:
Hehehe, I must have 1/2 a dozen pairs of safety glasses all around my shop, everywhere there is equipment, even hand tools.
 
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