Back wheel won't free wheel (clutch wont disengage)

If the wheel still turns the engine all the time: Search "flower' in the search function at the top of the page and read read read until it all becomes semi clear. Be careful removing the little brass screw as it strips easily.
Let us know what you did and how it went. :)
 
If the wheel still turns the engine all the time: Search "flower' in the search function at the top of the page and read read read until it all becomes semi clear. Be careful removing the little brass screw as it strips easily.
Let us know what you did and how it went. :)

OK I'll keep you guys updated, my only problem now is that my chain is close to hitting one of the engine mounts, do you guys think I have my engine mounted incorrectly? (See pic for example )
 

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No it looks normal and your chain is out to the left of that, I'm sure that's fine. I'm waiting to hear about your missing spring or something. I think that is the "pressing" issue. See what I did there? I'm a punny guy..
I think it's time for a new clutch cable, and wth happened to your pedals? :eek:
Anyway.. Clutch adjustment with flower nut. Supposed to be a spring under the plate. Carefullll with the brass screw. You tried tapping it with a plastic mallet like Timbone said?
 
No it looks normal and your chain is out to the left of that, I'm sure that's fine. I'm waiting to hear about your missing spring or something. I think that is the "pressing" issue. See what I did there? I'm a punny guy..
I think it's time for a new clutch cable, and wth happened to your pedals? :eek:
Anyway.. Clutch adjustment with flower nut. Supposed to be a spring under the plate. Carefullll with the brass screw. You tried tapping it with a plastic mallet like Timbone said?

Yeah the pedals were cheap and one just completely broke off, but anyway the clutch side is what I'm supposed to be hitting with a rubber hammer? (See picture) is that going to loosen up anything? Oh and I checked under the clutch plate, there was a spring in there so I'm good there.
 

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Oh well, as long as youre not riding it like that, lol. If I had a penny for all the times I've had a pedal or a stunt peg hit my head/back a moment after crashing a bike, lol.
I dont know what the mallet does, I never needed it! Sorry. Can't hurt though? The engine sat on a shelf/truck/ship/warehouse/shelf for months/years before you got it so things like pads and plate might have stuck together? I guess.
Yeah you can feel that light spring when you press on the clutch plate with your hand while it is held open by the locked lever, while you were taking out the little tiny screw and messing with the flower nut, unscrewing it up the thread on the clutch mandrel to the very top to try to get more seperation. But you've had the plate right the way off? The flower nut can be right on the very top of the mandrel. Well my flower nut is anyway. Reading another thread now that's not really normal. Have to check that out... The plate on mine does not sit level and even when clutch is opened. Don't know why. Yours I can see the light hitting the top of the mandrel so the nut is definitely on further than mine.. But then it is a different engine.
 
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hard to tell from pic, but one should always try to get rear mount studs as close to perpendicular to frame as possible since that is where all the force is - I also always use a piece of PVC pipe there to keep frame from being sawn in two
 
Here's my only problem now, I tried to shorten my chain to length so I wouldn't have to use that stupid cheap Chinese chain tensioner that came with it but in doing so I may have shorten it too much ,now when I try to feed the chain through the drive sprocket and the Hub sprocket on the back Wheel it seems a tad bit too short. The picture you see attached is the small piece of chain that I took off and when I add it to the chain it's long enough, but I'm trying to use what I have so I don't have to use the chain tensioner. Any suggestions?
 

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File any burrs from the sprockets that may impede proper seating of the chain on the teeth. Check that the chain rollers are properly contacting the troughs between teeth and that the chain is not being supported by the "shoulder" / bulge of the sprocket instead. Compare the tooth profile (looking from the side of the bike) to those you see on bicycle sprockets. They may appear very square at the top/tip of the teeth. File this square edge. It would wear off anyway. This may help your chain to engage smoothly and feel less tight.
So is your clutch disengaging now? Was it just stuck like it's been sitting on a shelf til the grease dried out? What worked to free it up? Anyone doing a search for the problem will find this thread now it contains those words so it would be good to say what worked for you.
 
File any burrs from the sprockets that may impede proper seating of the chain on the teeth. Check that the chain rollers are properly contacting the troughs between teeth and that the chain is not being supported by the "shoulder" / bulge of the sprocket instead. Compare the tooth profile (looking from the side of the bike) to those you see on bicycle sprockets. They may appear very square at the top/tip of the teeth. File this square edge. It would wear off anyway. This may help your chain to engage smoothly and feel less tight.
So is your clutch disengaging now? Was it just stuck like it's been sitting on a shelf til the grease dried out? What worked to free it up? Anyone doing a search for the problem will find this thread now it contains those words so it would be good to say what worked for you.

Well when I removed the spark plug that's what really got it moving in the first place, I guess the compression really had it stuck but anyway I tapped it with a rubber hammer on the clutch side and that helped a little bit too now it's moving smoother but I'm going to put a little grease on it to make sure it doesn't have any problems there or anything and I'll also try to file some of the sprockets down so I'll keep you informed, I just need to get my chain on so I can test it.
 
you could put a 1/2link in the chain, but I always use the standard tensioner

new chain will stretch about 1/2 inch during first week or so

putting an extra piece of PVC in rear mount will take more slack out of chain
 
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