Thanks for confirming what I suspected.U should use the 10inch shaft then cut it down after u get the right length the standard 5 inch shaft will be too short to run in the left side bearing
I advise not cutting the shaft, if it's too long it don't matter unless it's soo long you get past the keyway, cut it however and getting the sprocket and washers on will just add to the frustration.
Actually yes, the SBP keyway goes the whole length, I was thinking about my 10G shafts.Oh, so the keyway doesn't run the full length of the shaft?
The SBP chainguard is ridged plastic in 2 parts.Also, related question: is the chainguard (small sprocket cover thingy on RHS) made of a flexible or hard material?
I need to be able to remove the RHS chain without tools, by just pulling it off the RHS tensioner and peeling it away from the chainring then lifting it off.
My 10G 4-stroke long shaft transfer cases shaft comes drilled and tapped.I've read it, it's quite eye wateringly gruesome.
Thanks for the info re the type of plastic. I'll hopefully be able to get a disc, then. I thought I would have to.
Wish the shafts came drilled right through and tapped at one end..
Hehehe, I must have 1/2 a dozen pairs of safety glasses all around my shop, everywhere there is equipment, even hand tools.Yes indeed, safety first!
I won't be able to use a chainguard on the outer chainring because of the planned method to make it pedal powered/ legal on public roads. But
I will make sure to wear goggles to drill the hole for the guard disc.