Cylinder head chamber shape

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people don't heed my warning about having high compression and then wonder why the chrome plating is flaking off their cylinder,
or wonder why their wrist pin bearing went south so quick.
 
people don't heed my warning about having high compression and then wonder why the chrome plating is flaking off their cylinder,
or wonder why their wrist pin bearing went south so quick.

This is why I will be running a bushing and not a wrist pin bearing. I am all so going to see if I can find a better wrist pin bearing as I know someone has to make good one. The 6cc head is not going to give that much higher compression. I have been told by many the 6cc head is the best and not too much. If need be I will send it off and have it nickle sealed. I all so am starting out with a genuine Gurbeen and not the clone. Only time will tell as I will find out just what works and what does not.
 
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This is why I will be running a bushing and not a wrist pin bearing. I am all so going to see if I can find a better wrist pin bearing as I know someone has to make good one. The 6cc head is not going to give that much higher compression. I have been told by many the 6cc head is the best and not too much. If need be I will send it off and have it nickle sealed. I all so am starting out with a genuine Gurbeen and not the clone. Only time will tell as I will find out just what works and what does not.

There is no issue with the standard wrist pin bearing. In fact it is a much more durable method of operation from my experience doing heavy haul, where the engine experiences high temperatures, and high mechanical load.
This theory has been put to the test, because i reused a wrist pin bearing consecutively in 4 engines, just to see how long it would last. That wrist pin bearing is in the engine currently installed in my bike, and it's operated perfectly well for over 20,000 kilometers or 12,400 miles, and is still giving dependable reliability.
By account, the engines that i have had with a bushed bearing system did not last anywhere near that distance. In fact the bushed bearing was the greatest source of wear in the engine.

What does destroy the big end connecting rod bearing and wrist pin bearing is over revving the engine.
The 2-stroke Chinese bicycle engine should not be revved more than 4,200 rpm between gear shifts, and should not be revved any more than a maximum speed of 4,800 rpm. Once you rev the engine over 4,800 rpm for any length of time, you are significantly reducing the life of the big end connecting rod bearing. If you go to 5,500 rpm, start counting the days before the big end connecting rod bearing fails.

My experience has consistently shown that normal gear change points should be made no higher than 3,800 rpm for reliable engine operation and a life span of 6,000 kilometers or 3,700 miles, though i have had one bottom end give 10,000 kilometers, or 6,000 miles or operation, but cylinders generally last 4,000 kilometers or 2,500 miles using air cooled specification 2-stroke engine oil at 25:1, together with the jetting optimised for best combustion.
 
Good post Fabian. I am guessing that a lot of the wrist pin issues are poor materials, heat and detonation. Typical Japanese motocross engine run 12,000 rpm and 5 times the hp output on pin roller wrist pins with 50:1 oil. Industry moved away from bronze bushings 70 years ago because they wouldn't handle speeds greater than 5000 rpm without pressure lube.

More rpm means more load, as you note, especially if clearances and balance are sloppy. To withstand the load you need better quality control on dimensions and material quality. Detonation, heat and cheap oil will cook a wrist pin bearing in short order. Keep all these in order and you can do the rpm.

My KTM 125 ran 7 years of highspeed miles on the same piston and wristpin with good jetting and Ipone 50:1 oil.
It was finally damaged by an unfortunate complete submersion incident.
I am betting on it with my MB Grubee GT5A, running WOT near 8000 rpm as I pass 500 kms now, on Motul synthetic 32:1 and detonation resistant head.

Steve
 
There is no issue with the standard wrist pin bearing. In fact it is a much more durable method of operation from my experience doing heavy haul, where the engine experiences high temperatures, and high mechanical load.
This theory has been put to the test, because i reused a wrist pin bearing consecutively in 4 engines, just to see how long it would last. That wrist pin bearing is in the engine currently installed in my bike, and it's operated perfectly well for over 20,000 kilometers or 12,400 miles, and is still giving dependable reliability.
By account, the engines that i have had with a bushed bearing system did not last anywhere near that distance. In fact the bushed bearing was the greatest source of wear in the engine.

What does destroy the big end connecting rod bearing and wrist pin bearing is over revving the engine.
The 2-stroke Chinese bicycle engine should not be revved more than 4,200 rpm between gear shifts, and should not be revved any more than a maximum speed of 4,800 rpm. Once you rev the engine over 4,800 rpm for any length of time, you are significantly reducing the life of the big end connecting rod bearing. If you go to 5,500 rpm, start counting the days before the big end connecting rod bearing fails.

My experience has consistently shown that normal gear change points should be made no higher than 3,800 rpm for reliable engine operation and a life span of 6,000 kilometers or 3,700 miles, though i have had one bottom end give 10,000 kilometers, or 6,000 miles or operation, but cylinders generally last 4,000 kilometers or 2,500 miles using air cooled specification 2-stroke engine oil at 25:1, together with the jetting optimised for best combustion.

I do not use or want gears at this point since in some states gears are not legal. Hell if I am only to rev 4 grand might as well get a 4 cycle as they rev 6,800 or better. If there where more hop ups for the 4 cycle I would be running one of them and will be for my 3rd build. Have not read near as much about the big end bearing as I have the wrist pin bearing and being my second build is a hot rod why would I limit it to 38K? It is not a problem for me to install a rod kit if need be done a many a motorcycle. I will all so be balancing mine as this has a lot to do with life expectancy.

I have read many here claim they are turning 7 to 11k RPM not saying it last long but seen many turning 7K with out a problem and that is about what I am looking at many be just a little more. I do not expect a HOT ROD motor to last as long as stock as I have my stock motor bike as well. Once again I will be looking for better wrist pin bearings but till I find them I will be running a bushing.
 
45u, 175psi is typical with these aftermarket heads which is way too much.
All anyone needs is to take off 1mm of the standard head mating surface by using sandpaper on glass.
That will bring it close to 135psi, the ideal.
 
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There is no issue with the standard wrist pin bearing. In fact it is a much more durable method of operation from my experience doing heavy haul, where the engine experiences high temperatures, and high mechanical load.
This theory has been put to the test, because i reused a wrist pin bearing consecutively in 4 engines, just to see how long it would last. That wrist pin bearing is in the engine currently installed in my bike, and it's operated perfectly well for over 20,000 kilometers or 12,400 miles, and is still giving dependable reliability.
By account, the engines that i have had with a bushed bearing system did not last anywhere near that distance. In fact the bushed bearing was the greatest source of wear in the engine.

What does destroy the big end connecting rod bearing and wrist pin bearing is over revving the engine.
The 2-stroke Chinese bicycle engine should not be revved more than 4,200 rpm between gear shifts, and should not be revved any more than a maximum speed of 4,800 rpm. Once you rev the engine over 4,800 rpm for any length of time, you are significantly reducing the life of the big end connecting rod bearing. If you go to 5,500 rpm, start counting the days before the big end connecting rod bearing fails.

My experience has consistently shown that normal gear change points should be made no higher than 3,800 rpm for reliable engine operation and a life span of 6,000 kilometers or 3,700 miles, though i have had one bottom end give 10,000 kilometers, or 6,000 miles or operation, but cylinders generally last 4,000 kilometers or 2,500 miles using air cooled specification 2-stroke engine oil at 25:1, together with the jetting optimised for best combustion.
you've got to remember, you have a very weird usage scenario. heavy load, low speed all the time is not what the rest of us do.

I choose bushings not because they last longer, but because their failure mode isn't totally catastrophic. and I've never seen or heard of a big end failure from anyone other than you.

I haven't even hit my power band yet at 4800 RPM
 
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