Engine mounting complete. Questions !

Tauseef

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May 15, 2016
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Hi . thank u all for helping in mounting of engine. Its forum of wise experienced people. I am putting in modifications still
So few minutes back i had my first ride.
It was yummily awesome.
And with first ridr i had many questions.

Here are photos.
Please check fof any design suggestion.or faulty setting.

QUESTIONS :
1. can i use on/off state switch for engine Kill? Which keeps engine in halt?

2.the chain on sproket and engine side sometimes gives creaking sound momentarily , is it normal ?

3. When cycle is moving on road and i press hold clutch ,with engine running , sometimes pedals(which should remain free) get stuck and start whirling terribly and with a click sound are relieved to free state. Why is it so?
I have posted fotos above , of chain from both sides

4. I have posted fotos of brakes. They work terribly ! Is there a way to adjust them ? Or use discs only ?
 
1. I thinkk I read it's a on/ground you need if it's for stopping the engine; but you can still have an on/off anyway. The stock kill switch (off/ground) is non waterproof at least on my kit and most kits. Threads mention that it is a potential cause of non running condition by connecting to the ground when wet.

2. It's probably your spokes flexing?
You might be able to run without the tensioner and just take one link out of the chain or swap out for a half link.

3. Edit: As KCvale correctly points out in his post below, it's the rear right freewheel locking up.

4. BMX or modern road racing bike brakes use the same system but are far better quality. BMX ones will have clearance for your tyres. I like the Odyssey Evolver, but more models are easily available. Kool Stop salmon pads are good but Google search for the best current bmxers choice for chrome rims. Nothing works in the rain like a good disc brake, though. :)

Just my 2c, opinions expressed are solely those of the individual, lol.
 
Last edited:
1. I thinkk I read it's a on/ground you need if it's for stopping the engine; but you can still have an on/off anyway. The stock kill switch (off/ground) is non waterproof at least on my kit and most kits. Threads mention that it is a potential cause of non running condition by connecting to the ground when wet.

2. It's probably your spokes flexing?
You might be able to run without the tensioner and just take one link out of the chain or swap out for a half link.

3. Remove the whole ring gear assembly and pump a _small_ amount of grease into the three holes on the rear of the ring gear bearing using a syringe or pipette or similar. You should really have noticed the dry bearing sound and done that before riding, glad you survived! Reassemble and set the clutch adjustment as per instructions on the many threads here.

4. BMX or modern road racing bike brakes use the same system but are far better quality. BMX ones will have clearance for your tyres. I like the Odyssey Evolver, but more models are easily available. Kool Stop salmon pads are good. Nothing works in the rain like a good disc brake, though. :)

Just my 2c, opinions expressed are solely those of the individual, lol.

Well, Fury , without tensioner this clicking sound comes more often and chain gets stuck too !

Alright, i shall try greasing it and then checking for the pedal stuck !
Thanks
 
QUESTIONS :
1. can i use on/off state switch for engine Kill? Which keeps engine in halt?
Your throttle doesn't have a kill button?
Odd...
All you have to do to kill the engine is short out the the two wires going into the CDI.

3. When cycle is moving on road and i press hold clutch ,with engine running , sometimes pedals(which should remain free) get stuck and start whirling terribly and with a click sound are relieved to free state. Why is it so?
Bad freewheel on the pedal tide.

4. I have posted fotos of brakes. They work terribly ! Is there a way to adjust them ? Or use discs only ?
Put the rear C-Brake on the front side of the frame mount like the front, you have it on the back.

2_TouchBlackLeftDone.jpg
 
Just something that popped out at me is your gas tank position. Any fall (either side and looks like the gas tank takes the full force. Can you mount it long ways on the rack?
Mike
 
Just something that popped out at me is your gas tank position. Any fall (either side and looks like the gas tank takes the full force. Can you mount it long ways on the rack?
Mike
Sure you can mount a rack and put the tank there.

Caddy2_backLeft.jpg


Or put a custom tank in back.

2_Caddy3RightDone.jpg


But I see no need other than not hiding the cool top bar like those 2 Caddy's.
Tanks avoid any hard hits right up there by the handlebars.
 
Just something that popped out at me is your gas tank position. Any fall (either side and looks like the gas tank takes the full force. Can you mount it long ways on the rack?
Mike

Thats an excellent suggestion.
i ll change its position !
 
Sure you can mount a rack and put the tank there.

Caddy2_backLeft.jpg


Or put a custom tank in back.

2_Caddy3RightDone.jpg


But I see no need other than not hiding the cool top bar like those 2 Caddy's.
Tanks avoid any hard hits right up there by the handlebars.

Those are such beautiful bicycles.
Yes , i am planing to have a custom fuel tank and place it higher as fuel is not moving to carburator properly . so i assumed that fuel tank is too low ?
 
Those are such beautiful bicycles.
Yes , i am planing to have a custom fuel tank and place it higher as fuel is not moving to carburator properly . so i assumed that fuel tank is too low ?
It is a 'gravity feed' fuel system so yes, the bottom of the tank including petcock needs to be above of the carbs input.
Preferably with no dips below in the line.

Tank too low? Raise the rack or prop the tank up some before bolting it down on the rack, heck a piece of wood cut and sealed works dandy.

And Tauseef, thanks for the kudos about the Caddies, they were exceptional bikes.
Kent only made them for ~year and I bought the last 5 remaining in the US and had fun with them, especially with that NuVinci rear shifting hub they came with, heck the hubs were selling for more than whole bike when I got mine ;-}

Actually I have a video of one on a ride...



But I digress from the tank topic but that's all you need unless you are thinking a custom tank...
I had that Cadillac one made to my design by http://www.coyotetanks.com/fuel-tanks.html
~$120 delivered but perfect for what I wanted, just be prepared in advance if you want custom...

Hehe... I dinked around for a couple of weeks using household containers to see what I liked and how it would fit , but it infuriated my wife as everything had something in it before I commandeered it ;-}
 
It is a 'gravity feed' fuel system so yes, the bottom of the tank including petcock needs to be above of the carbs input.
Preferably with no dips below in the line.

Tank too low? Raise the rack or prop the tank up some before bolting it down on the rack, heck a piece of wood cut and sealed works dandy.

And Tauseef, thanks for the kudos about the Caddies, they were exceptional bikes.
Kent only made them for ~year and I bought the last 5 remaining in the US and had fun with them, especially with that NuVinci rear shifting hub they came with, heck the hubs were selling for more than whole bike when I got mine ;-}

Actually I have a video of one on a ride...



But I digress from the tank topic but that's all you need unless you are thinking a custom tank...
I had that Cadillac one made to my design by http://www.coyotetanks.com/fuel-tanks.html
~$120 delivered but perfect for what I wanted, just be prepared in advance if you want custom...

Hehe... I dinked around for a couple of weeks using household containers to see what I liked and how it would fit , but it infuriated my wife as everything had something in it before I commandeered it ;-}


Superb!
The engine sound good, i could feel the blowing air in video.
By seeing bikes and videos as this one i have done many improvements to my bike.


Alright, good idea ,i ll place pices of wood beneath the tank to raise it further
 
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