Sportsman Flyer Build

[Deleted member 25783]

Friday afternoon I wanted to start the rear wheel build by installing the OCC sprocket adapter.
Only to discover that the adapter would not close. Turns out hub clamping sprocket adapters only fit on coaster brake hubs. I chose to use a free wheel and the hub flange is too large.
Later that day Lynn (CustomMotoredBicycles.com) called to warn me about the problem. She is giving me full refund, and has a sprocket adapter that bolts to the hub using the 6 threaded holes intended for mounting a disc brake.

 

[bakaneko]

Ah, now you can get disc brakes for the rear wheel? It will provide additional braking power though the drum brake in the front looks sturdy enough.

 

[Deleted member 25783]

Ah, now you can get disc brakes for the rear wheel? It will provide additional braking power though the drum brake in the front looks sturdy enough.

No my friend, that six hole hub pattern is what I need to attach the drive sprocket to. Remember, Lynn had a prototype universal disk which is not in production, at this time. Lynn in on it, so it is a matter of time. Lynn recommended drilling and rethreading 6mm. I thought that was a good idea. I didn't have a lot of confidence in the existing 5mm fastener arrangement Custom builds, are always a challenge.
How you doing?

 

[bakaneko]

Oh, I see. I am doing fine. The noise from my chain guide in the transmission gear box is kinda getting to me. It works great but the noise not so much. I might try something else or get steel ball bearings.

 

[Deleted member 25783]

Sorry I haven't any photos here yet, but then again I am dealing with another learning curve. My only other build is a HuaSheng 49cc powered Huffy-Davidson from a Bikeberry kit.
This last weekend by fits and starts I disassembled an EZ-matic transmission.
1/4" 6061 T6 plate had been purchased, so I layed out a pattern of the stock mounting plate and the power in put and power out put positions.
Band sawed the outline, centered and drilled a 5/8" power in put hole.
Made 4, 5/16-24 transfer screws to transfer the engines hole pattern with the engine vertical and the transmission 90 degrees horizontal. With transfer screws in the block
Slid the mounting plate onto the transfer screws, and verified 90 degrees. Striking the plate to transfer the hole positions.
Back out to the shop re-struck the prick marks to help a drill follow center.
The rest was Duck Soup. Drilled and counter sink’d for flat head screws.
Back in the house, dropped the plate on over the crankshaft. Screws all fell right in.
Next is belt sanding to true the saw cuts and transferring the drivetrain components to be mounted up for final assy.

 

[Deleted member 25783]

Sizing up every thing, sorry there isn't a Right side view also. I'm on it MB buddy's

 

[Frankfort MB's]

Sizing up every thing, sorry there isn't a Right side view also. I'm on it MB buddy's

Sexy lookin thang ain't it???
I always liked the drop loop frames, you can fit some crazy motor setups in them

What kind of tires and handlebars you running?

 

[Deleted member 25783]

Sexy lookin thang ain't it???
I always liked the drop loop frames, you can fit some crazy motor setups in them

What kind of tires and handlebars you running?

The weight of this new build needs to be addressed regarding tires. My wheels are Worksman 26X2.
The choices are, Continental Retro 26X2 Cream Wire Bead or more likely Schwalbe Fat Frank 26X2.35
Cream with wire bead.
The Conti is $22 + shipping of $11.35
Schwalbe on Amazon $31.18 free shipping.
Handlebars will have to be addressed later unless I get some recommendations to consider.

 

[Frankfort MB's]

If your going for the board track racer then look at 60's model female bike handlebars i think they look good for that low and close look

 

[Deleted member 25783]

If your going for the board track racer then look at 60's model female bike handlebars i think they look good for that low and close look

Frankfort MB's
My hopeful design, is an upright sitting stance. To reflect the early style road motorcycles when they were still pedal started. This is a labor of love and a work in progress. I finally made the blank 1/4" steel disk that will use the existing disk brake mounting holes that were M5X.6 and are going to be resized M6 x 1 to increase strength. Transmitting engine power to the rear wheel via 56T sprocket. To satisfy my strength requirements a steel band may have to be heated and allowed to shrink around that part of the hub.
Sorry I have not answered your handlebar question. But for sure I will not have to lean forward except when I want to.