Clutch stuck open, too much force

vuvffufg

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Jul 27, 2016
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So I thought I needed the bearing inside of the clutch because when I first took it out a small beat-up not resembling a bearing, at all, thing pop'd out, and ever since my clutch arm would come up and out of place.

So I bought one with a few more parts, needless to say, I probably didnt need it. I put the clutch back together and it was abnormally hard. Once I got it together the clutch wouldn't budge. So I take everything apart again, take out the bearing and try without.
All seemed good, chain was sticking a bit cuz i got a new one and had to shrink it but other than that, fine?
So I get on peddle a bit, determine its good to fire the engine, release the clutch, then...
Nothing, I'm stuck peddling.
Whatever, maybe the cord is too tight?
Remove the cord from the clutch arm and the bike rolls fine still. uhh oh..

I tried going to the back of the clutch case and removing the part with the gears, unfortunately I had a shop work on this bike and they rounded some screws so its damn well impossible to get it off.

I have a dremel and am tempted to try cutting the bolts so I can get them out, but I would have to cut the case a little because of the size of the dremel disk.
Imma try a rubber band tomorrow and see if that works.

If nothing does should I buy a screw removal tool instead of saving the $5 and cutting a bit of the clutch case? Is there another way to fix it without removing the clutch cover?

Help?
 
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get a hand impact driver to get them out - they're cheap and a good tool to have
 
I suppose you could maybe wear down the disk a bit to make it smaller. As Crassius says it is good to have a hand impact driver anyway.. Got one on my birthday list. :)
I am trying to guess what might be keeping the clutch opened up though. I think it is worth seeing inside there. Maybe the same shop who made a mess of the cover screws also forgot to put the flower nut retaining screw back in.. I think if the clutch opened way (wayyy) too far it might come off the ends of the three prongs, idk.. Does the clutch arm return to it's starting position when the clutch lever is released (or when you disconnected the cable)? If not, the cam there could have gone too far..
 
Yeah strangely enough it still feels like the clutch is giving tension to the wire.
I figured it is seized clutch plates because of how far open I caused it to go with the extra bearing.

Getting paid tomorrow, so probably get an impact driver soon.

Edit: to make things worse its 110 degrees in my garage, at night...
 
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Ahh, that makes sense.
I'm "sure" it will be an easy fix once that cover is off. :)
I know what you mean, I touch my bikes and instantly sweat is pouring in my eyes. >_<
 
when flower nut is too loose, the bucking bar will stick out father on other side - this is why cable gets adjusted both before and after flower nut
 
Got it open, and I have no clue anymore.
I've tightened the flower nut as much as possible and it still doesnt engage. Plus the clutch lever now needs to be pushed a ton to get it to raise the plate.

My new theory is I shrunk the clutch pads by compressing them?
I can see it engaging but just a drag, like it wants to but doesnt have enough resistance to turn the plate.
Is that a possibility, compressed clutch pads?
what else could it be?
need pictures?
 
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I can imagine.. And I can think of a few things I would want to check for..
Engine seized somehow so no amount of friction will turn it. Or..
Grease/oil on/in the pads. Or..
The light spring under the clutch plate out of place so it is getting trapped somehow..

I have heard of scoring the clutch plate to make it more abrasive. The knurled surface of mine is not really abrasive at all. The knurling is just like a golf ball, reducing contact area without actually making it a grippy surface.
 
I can turn the engine sprocket, which then turns the bevel gear but not the drive sprocket, so doubt its that.
Could be oil/grease, but how would I remove it safely?
Just rechecked the spring, was promising at first cuz it felt like i could get it to grab by pushing on the plate. (obviously cant fire the motor like that) Tightened down the flower nut, first a little, then a lot. Still no $.

Seriously thinking its the clutch pads, a few of them look worn, the lines on them are completely worn, even shiny on a few, and material has been clearly moved to the sides of the tops.
Scoring the clutch plate seems like an alright idea, but thinking about it, it might wear the pads faster.

Have to get a new clutch cover cuz i ended up having to cut it, priced at $60 online which is a bit rough on me, going to check the shop and ebay and see if they have the parts for cheaper.
 
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I can turn the engine sprocket, which then turns the bevel gear but not the drive sprocket, so doubt its that.
Could be oil/grease, but how would I remove it safely?
Just rechecked the spring, was promising at first cuz it felt like i could get it to grab by pushing on the plate. (obviously cant fire the motor like that) Tightened down the flower nut, first a little, then a lot. Still no $.

Seriously thinking its the clutch pads, a few of them look torn, the lines on them are completely warn, even shiny on a few, and material has been clearly moved to the sides of the tops.
Scoring the clutch plate seems like an alright idea, but thinking about it, it might wear the pads faster.

Have to get a new clutch cover cuz i ended up having to cut it, priced at $60 online which is a bit rough on me, going to check the shop and ebay and see if they have the parts for cheaper.

$60 ??!!! You could get a billet S.B.P. one for less than that. :eek:

I am not really sure what you mean when you say you "can turn the engine sprocket....." but I am/was assuming it is just the clutch plate not gripping the clutch pads.
I don't think mine have any kind of (wear?) lines but if wear lines have worn off then that surely means time to change the pads. Mine are still new as the engine isn't on the bike yet but they had a torn look to them with excess material hanging on the edges, that's just how they came from the factory.
I don't imagine that scoring the plate a bit would accelerate pad wear much as long as the clutch stops slipping.. That is not based on experience though of course. I just saw/read about it being done and having felt how smooth the surface is on my clutch plate it seems a good idea to put some roughness on there.
 
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