gary55
Well-Known Member
Fire it up then drop that double stand an see how she acts. If all is good take her for a hell ride. Keep an eye on that roller to wheel thing. Glad you goter dun and still have all yer hair
Can I attach a chain tensioner upside down?
- Thread starter bigkev81
- Start date
I'd love to jump on her right now and fire her up, but I'm gonna wait till tomorrow.
Somebody recommended me a 2 stroke oil to use and said stay away from synthetic and semi synthetic as they stuff your engine.
Lookingonline it seems most (that i've read anyways) disagree with him and synthetic is better, lol
So I'm gonna exchange the Oil I got for something synthetic.
Somebody recommended me a 2 stroke oil to use and said stay away from synthetic and semi synthetic as they stuff your engine.
Lookingonline it seems most (that i've read anyways) disagree with him and synthetic is better, lol
So I'm gonna exchange the Oil I got for something synthetic.
oh, how rude of me! I forgot to thank everyone, lol
So thank you everyone for your input!
Im just having a grilled cheese for lunch, then I will put my chain guard on and take her for a spin on pedal power to see how the chain and tensioner hold up.
I have already checked for spark by pulling the spark plug out the head, holding it next to the engine bolts and pedalling, and am glad to say we have spark!
The fuel will be the last item to check off
I am planning to get myself a better tensioning system. Since I live in Australia I will need to wait 3 weeks (and sometimes pay outrageous fees) for shipping.
Do you guys recommend the spring-loaded tensioners, or the arch tensioners?
Can you recommend a good vendor? And please not Bikeberry. They want to charge $50 shipping for their tensioner kit, lol
So thank you everyone for your input!
Im just having a grilled cheese for lunch, then I will put my chain guard on and take her for a spin on pedal power to see how the chain and tensioner hold up.
I have already checked for spark by pulling the spark plug out the head, holding it next to the engine bolts and pedalling, and am glad to say we have spark!
The fuel will be the last item to check off
I am planning to get myself a better tensioning system. Since I live in Australia I will need to wait 3 weeks (and sometimes pay outrageous fees) for shipping.
Do you guys recommend the spring-loaded tensioners, or the arch tensioners?
Can you recommend a good vendor? And please not Bikeberry. They want to charge $50 shipping for their tensioner kit, lol
NO JOY!!!
After getting some good quality synthetic oil (Castrol TTS at $30 a litre) I was super excited to get my bike going again.
So I mixed my fuelil ratio at 20:1 putting 200mls into a jerry can with 4Litres.
So I switched both fuel taps on and noticed fuel leaking from the top hose. So I changed it out with a hose with a tighter inner diameter.
I then tried pedalling and releasing the clutch but apart from being harder to pedal, nothing else much happened.
I thought I had no spark for a while but after fiddling with the boot on the cable I did get spark going again.
Anyone know what the problem could be? Could it be I maybe didn't set my clutch plate up properly after opening it to put my new chain in?
I don't remember how much resistance the wheel had in gear before, but if I push my push with the clutch disengaged the back wheel spins without much resistance. I think I remember not being able to push the bike unless clutch was pulled in. But it was a couple years ago, so I don't really remember much.
Sorry for the long as post lol, and thanks again to all the helpers, I really do appreciate your advice!
After getting some good quality synthetic oil (Castrol TTS at $30 a litre) I was super excited to get my bike going again.
So I mixed my fuel
il ratio at 20:1 putting 200mls into a jerry can with 4Litres.So I switched both fuel taps on and noticed fuel leaking from the top hose. So I changed it out with a hose with a tighter inner diameter.
I then tried pedalling and releasing the clutch but apart from being harder to pedal, nothing else much happened.
I thought I had no spark for a while but after fiddling with the boot on the cable I did get spark going again.
Anyone know what the problem could be? Could it be I maybe didn't set my clutch plate up properly after opening it to put my new chain in?
I don't remember how much resistance the wheel had in gear before, but if I push my push with the clutch disengaged the back wheel spins without much resistance. I think I remember not being able to push the bike unless clutch was pulled in. But it was a couple years ago, so I don't really remember much.
Sorry for the long as post lol, and thanks again to all the helpers, I really do appreciate your advice!
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gary55
Well-Known Member
There should be noticeable change in resistance with the clutch out. Check out you tube for motorized bike clutch adjustment. If she's been setting for two years chances are that the carby may need cleaning out as well.The gas in the bowl will probably have turned into a jet clogging goopy mess.
Hi Gary,
I've done a little research on adjusting the clutch and it says the clutch plate should only move 1/8th of an inch. Is that correct? That is 31.75mm which is tiny. I'm pretty sure my clutch plate moves alot more than that. I will adjust it to see how I go. I thought the fact that the drive sprocket would spin when engaging the clutch, and stop when releasing it meant it was okay.
As for cleaning out the carb, I'll need to do a little reseach before I attempt that. Hopefully I'll find the info on here as I couldn't find anything on youtube.
Oh, one more thing that may help diagnose my problem. When disengaging the clutch and pedalling, I am not hearing any noise at all from the engine. Silent.
Cheers
I've done a little research on adjusting the clutch and it says the clutch plate should only move 1/8th of an inch. Is that correct? That is 31.75mm which is tiny. I'm pretty sure my clutch plate moves alot more than that. I will adjust it to see how I go. I thought the fact that the drive sprocket would spin when engaging the clutch, and stop when releasing it meant it was okay.
As for cleaning out the carb, I'll need to do a little reseach before I attempt that. Hopefully I'll find the info on here as I couldn't find anything on youtube.
Oh, one more thing that may help diagnose my problem. When disengaging the clutch and pedalling, I am not hearing any noise at all from the engine. Silent.
Cheers
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gary55
Well-Known Member
transmission drive train section covers clutch probs. So plate movement would be relevant here. The carby issue wouldn't. That should be 2 stroke engines, but that's my fault. I tossed that in cause I recalled him saying the bike was setting for 2 years and could be another issue. Now I'm going to try to see how he figures 1/8 in. is equal to 31.75 mm. or1 1/4 in in.
gary55
Well-Known Member
First off 31.75 mm is about 1 1/4 ins. 1/8 is roughly 3.2 mm.. It does sound like you have clutch adjustment probs. Playing with this how you will catch on to setting your clutch. With the cover off move the star nut in and out till you find the spot where the lever with the hold open pin engauged will just allow the the wheel to spin without turning the engine over. There should be barely noticeable plate movement.The clutch should start to engage in the last 1/4 +- of the levers throw. Mess with this for a bit and you will get it. Don't forget the set screw once you got it where you want it. It's easier than chain work.Hi Gary,
I've done a little research on adjusting the clutch and it says the clutch plate should only move 1/8th of an inch. Is that correct? That is 31.75mm which is tiny. I'm pretty sure my clutch plate moves alot more than that. I will adjust it to see how I go. I thought the fact that the drive sprocket would spin when engaging the clutch, and stop when releasing it meant it was okay.
As for cleaning out the carb, I'll need to do a little reseach before I attempt that. Hopefully I'll find the info on here as I couldn't find anything on youtube.
Oh, one more thing that may help diagnose my problem. When disengaging the clutch and pedalling, I am not hearing any noise at all from the engine. Silent.
Cheers
crassius
Well-Known Member
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pressure plate movement isn't relevant to cable/clutch adjust
with lever unlocked, set just a bit of free play in cable at clutch arm (arm should be pointing close to straight back)
with lever locked, adjust flower nut until clutch spins freely when bike is rolled
with lever locked, tighten flower nut until it just starts to drag when bike is rolled, then loosen one notch and put in locking screw
with lever unlocked, recheck free play in clutch arm
with lever unlocked, set just a bit of free play in cable at clutch arm (arm should be pointing close to straight back)
with lever locked, adjust flower nut until clutch spins freely when bike is rolled
with lever locked, tighten flower nut until it just starts to drag when bike is rolled, then loosen one notch and put in locking screw
with lever unlocked, recheck free play in clutch arm
