Chain with no tensioner ok?

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Thanks man I fixed I should have got that one junkyarddog showed but have this one instead
Idk.. Personally. I actually think they're both unnecessary if you have the clearance for a straight chain. If they're sprung, then surely you have to have room for a straight chain to use them... In which case, with horizontal dropouts, what are they doing?

I have NEVER tried it, and I'm in process of building a shifter anyway. Just want to be clear about that.

But from general cycle experience and reading this forum, I would prefer the tensioner on the pedal side instead and just use the axle tugs in the dropouts to tension the motor chain.
 
Idk.. Personally. I actually think they're both unnecessary if you have the clearance for a straight chain. If they're sprung, then surely you have to have room for a straight chain to use them... In which case, with horizontal dropouts, what are they doing?

I have NEVER tried it, and I'm in process of building a shifter anyway. Just want to be clear about that.

But from general cycle experience and reading this forum, I would prefer the tensioner on the pedal side instead and just use the axle tugs in the dropouts to tension the motor chain.

What do u mean axle tugs? Explain please because I just had to rig this so called high performance chain temsioner the spring broke off so I used some metal wire to replace the spring the popped off on a main road my chain didn't kink thank god. I was going pretty fast..
 
Oh apparently it's chain tug or axle puller.. Sorry. I have always called it a chain tensioner since that's what my friends all called it lol, but that doesn't make sense on this forum! Goggle "chain tugs". It just pulls your axle back in the dropouts to adjust and set tension your chain and get the wheel straight, and prevent the axle moving forward while you tighten the wheel nuts. It's like the accurate and "proper" alternative to jamming a rolled up newspaper between your tyre and seat tube! The chain tension would always make the axle creep forward on that side of the BMX bike when the nuts were being tightened so that it was difficult to get the wheel straight when you didn't have a newspaper to hand.
Yeah chain tugs.. Surly make the best stainless ones that open beers! (but silly price.) There are many options. I like the ones with two allen head bolts. :)

Glad to hear you are okay. I hope it is possible to move the tensioner to the right hand chain where it won't be stressed.
 
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Oh apparently it's chain tug or axle puller.. Sorry. I have always called it a chain tensioner since that's what my friends all called it lol, but that doesn't make sense on this forum! Goggle "chain tugs". It just pulls your axle back in the dropouts to adjust and set tension your chain and get the wheel straight, and prevent the axle moving forward while you tighten the wheel nuts. It's like the accurate and "proper" alternative to jamming a rolled up newspaper between your tyre and seat tube! The chain tension would always make the axle creep forward on that side of the BMX bike when the nuts were being tightened so that it was difficult to get the wheel straight when you didn't have a newspaper to hand.
Yeah chain tugs.. Surly make the best stainless ones that open beers! (but silly price.) There are many options. I like the ones with two allen head bolts. :)

Glad to hear you are okay. I hope it is possible to move the tensioner to the right hand chain where it won't be stressed.

Ok going for that next but now my screws broke off inside my mag rimz from the engine chain drive sprocket side just bought them to 145$ down the toilet unless I find a guy to re-tap it fat chance just went outside to start it and it just rolled jeeze any suggestions on the strongest screws I can get?? lol
 
Ok going for that next but now my screws broke off inside my mag rimz from the engine chain drive sprocket side just bought them to 145$ down the toilet unless I find a guy to re-tap it fat chance just went outside to start it and it just rolled jeeze any suggestions on the strongest screws I can get?? lol
%&#£! :eek: Who sold you the bolts? Is the thread also ruined or can you extract the bits of bolt? (With a drill, two holes, and hammer a screwdriver in there to unscrew them.. I am sure there's a good few more ways people have come up with on here)
And any M5 (or whatever you have) bolts SHOULD be strong enough IMO.
 
%&#£! :eek: Who sold you the bolts? Is the thread also ruined or can you extract the bits of bolt? (With a drill, two holes, and hammer a screwdriver in there to unscrew them.. I am sure there's a good few more ways people have come up with on here)
And any M5 (or whatever you have) bolts SHOULD be strong enough IMO.

I've looked but hard to find a good one I'll try my best wish me luck ;) lol
 
I've looked but hard to find a good one I'll try my best wish me luck ;) lol
Where are you looking, bicycle shops? M5 and M6 are used in stems and all sorts of high stress situations. But did the bolts come with the wheel or from the original engine kit? If the thread in the wheel is okay you should be fine. I AM wishing you luck! Those wheels are too nice and too expensive to have this ruin them.. :/
 
Where are you looking, bicycle shops? M5 and M6 are used in stems and all sorts of high stress situations. But did the bolts come with the wheel or from the original engine kit? If the thread in the wheel is okay you should be fine. I AM wishing you luck! Those wheels are too nice and too expensive to have this ruin them.. :/

Bought the bolts from a hardware store
 
Bought the bolts from a hardware store

Most hardware store bolts are only the equivalent of Grade 2 or metric 5.8.
Here is a comparison chart:
mebkumrmspoy.gif


For nuts the makings are usually little dimples shown here under their respective bolts:
Bolt_Nut_Markings_SAE_and_Metric.png


A metric 8.8 is typically all you need, especially if it is threaded into aluminum.

Steve
 
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