dremel multi-max cutting bit: a surprisingly elegant clutch cable lock screw replacement

i use two wire stops, one before the arm and one after, to secure it. along with the screw that is actually in the arm to secure the wire. that seems sorta pointless but its just me i guess. i dont see what the goal your trying to accomplish is. it doesnt seem like it would make it easier to take it off or put it on if your threading it through like that, and it doesnt seem faster or anything. i guess it could make it screwless but it seems like it may slip out. its kinda cool i guess but it seems like a lessening of reliability for no apparent gain.
 
i use two wire stops, one before the arm and one after, to secure it. along with the screw that is actually in the arm to secure the wire. that seems sorta pointless but its just me i guess. i dont see what the goal your trying to accomplish is. it doesnt seem like it would make it easier to take it off or put it on if your threading it through like that, and it doesnt seem faster or anything. i guess it could make it screwless but it seems like it may slip out. its kinda cool i guess but it seems like a lessening of reliability for no apparent gain.

it's firmly in the makeshift (aka 'dammit, the clutch cable screw is the only thing holding me back from having my motored bike running tonight, so s**t, what quick & resourceful hack can I throw together to get over this last hurdle right now & still be mostly pretty safe??') category of mods. you shouldn't go from stock to this except in a pinch, or unless maybe you indulge a really messy & avant garde sense of style or something

that said, for what it is, it works damn well & was easier/faster to install than the stock equipment. it's also had less loosening, but most likely that's largely b/c i bought a better cable at the bike store this time
 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-Wire-Sto...703549?hash=item541e6cdbfd:g:-5QAAOSwrklVR6Lt

using two of these will allow less loosening. thats what i do. though i suppose that does work in a pinch i would be afraid of it getting caught in something longterm. also if you want to save money in the long-haul you can buy cables without a sheath online, and buy the sheath by the foot. on a whole its cheaper if you plan on using it for a while or making multiple bikes. ebay is cheaper but responsible for longer wait times. the bike store i go to price gouges.
 
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-Wire-Sto...703549?hash=item541e6cdbfd:g:-5QAAOSwrklVR6Lt

using two of these will allow less loosening. thats what i do. though i suppose that does work in a pinch i would be afraid of it getting caught in something longterm. also if you want to save money in the long-haul you can buy cables without a sheath online, and buy the sheath by the foot. on a whole its cheaper if you plan on using it for a while or making multiple bikes. ebay is cheaper but responsible for longer wait times. the bike store i go to price gouges.
Those are knarps. So why two? Is it so you can take the cable off and then put it it back on clamped in the same place more easily?
 
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Those are knarps. So why two? Is it so you can take the cable off and then put it it back on clamped in the same place more easily?
Those are nearly identical to the ones I was talking about, only difference is ours are brass cylinder, and a Philips screw.

I'd also like to know why 2, I can see 2 on the outside but not so much one inside, I could see one inside creating extra stress on the cable, maybe. I have the clutch arm with a screw, I use that as well..

I can vouch a thousand times on that style cable stop. I used to use a locking pin back prior to being introduced to this kind, the only problem was the set screw was a little smaller than a screw found in a pair of glasses lol... Good thing my vision is great.
 
Those are nearly identical to the ones I was talking about, only difference is ours are brass cylinder, and a Philips screw.

I'd also like to know why 2, I can see 2 on the outside but not so much one inside, I could see one inside creating extra stress on the cable, maybe. I have the clutch arm with a screw, I use that as well..

I can vouch a thousand times on that style cable stop. I used to use a locking pin back prior to being introduced to this kind, the only problem was the set screw was a little smaller than a screw found in a pair of glasses lol... Good thing my vision is great.
That does sound very small. Perhaps you had the ones made for a throttle cable and it is smaller than the (only ones I've seen) ones for BMX U-brakes.
Apparently they are used commonly for mopeds and stuffzz.
Short:
http://www.treatland.tv/moped-short-knarp-cable-stop-p/moped-short-knarp.htm
Mini: http://www.treatland.tv/moped-mini-knarp-cable-stop-p/moped-mini-knarp.htm
Miniest!
http://www.treatland.tv/moped-miniest-knarp-cable-stop-ever-p/moped-miniest-knarp.htm
And loads more
 
Those are knarps. So why two? Is it so you can take the cable off and then put it it back on clamped in the same place more easily?
exactly, so when its taken off, the place is held more easily, just slip it back on and go, instead of trying to figure out exactly where it was before. i also have one where the clutch cable comes out of the, umm, screw thingy in the crank case. i pull the clutch lever fully, and put it just a little past where the closest place i can get to the screw thingy throttle cable holder thingy is. thats more of a peace of mind thing with that though, its not really that useful. i also like to know how much the lever pulls the cable for reference purposes. (23mm with a stock specialized hardrock handbrake if anyone happened to be curious.)
 
also im still unclear if the "elegant" reference was sarcastic or not. i could maybe see that with only the semicircle part, but with the square part not so much.
Those are nearly identical to the ones I was talking about, only difference is ours are brass cylinder, and a Philips screw.

I'd also like to know why 2, I can see 2 on the outside but not so much one inside, I could see one inside creating extra stress on the cable, maybe. I have the clutch arm with a screw, I use that as well..

I can vouch a thousand times on that style cable stop. I used to use a locking pin back prior to being introduced to this kind, the only problem was the set screw was a little smaller than a screw found in a pair of glasses lol... Good thing my vision is great.
also, if there is more stress on the cable due to the second one im yet to see any symptoms, however if there is i will post them so you know that it could be a bad idea. and ive had this setup for quite some time. also, i just posted those because they were the first ebay result, however the pack of stops i ordered had 4 of each three sizes and were indeed brass with a philips screw. i can send pictures of the setup upon request.
 
exactly, so when its taken off, the place is held more easily, just slip it back on and go, instead of trying to figure out exactly where it was before. i also have one where the clutch cable comes out of the, umm, screw thingy in the crank case. i pull the clutch lever fully, and put it just a little past where the closest place i can get to the screw thingy throttle cable holder thingy is. thats more of a peace of mind thing with that though, its not really that useful. i also like to know how much the lever pulls the cable for reference purposes. (23mm with a stock specialized hardrock handbrake if anyone happened to be curious.)

Makes sense! :)

"screw thingy in the crank case" = barrel adjuster cable stop. Weirdly a knarp can also be called a cable stop but all the "thingys" on the bike frame are cable stops even though they stop the cable outer / sleeve. :)

While we're talking about useful little possibly obscure things. There are clamp on cable stops which might be useful (in a pair) to get rid of some of the clutch cable outer, and reduce the amount of flex and drag. Only if you can find one that fits your down tube. :)
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/gear-spares/black-286-mm-origin8-clampon-double-frame-cable-stop/
 
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