Centrifugal clutch and related experiments.

Frankenstein

Deceased - Frankenstein 1991 - 2018
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We have here a pretty standard centrifugal clutch kit, a few extras as far as grease fittings go. As Fabian knows his China girls and states quite clearly, lubrication is everything.
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1: clutch bell and bevel gear : crankshaft collar is currently installed.
2: crankshaft collar
3:bolt that holds the boot assembly and crankshaft collar on crankshaft.
4: This is a heavy bearing that is part of the one-way bearing which allows pedal starts or even kick starts depending on design. It's really heavy duty, it might even mushroom the collar preventing disassembly,luckily it came with a puller tool which is not pictured.
5: this is the retention spring for the one way bearing. It can be installed in several ways but only one spot is effective to keep proper pressure on the bearing, if not under enough pressure it will not work very effectively, and will slip as a pedal start us attempted, more on this later.
6: Various brass fittings and matching taps, will construct better grease application later.
7: simple junk drawer grease applicator in making.
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Here's a better look into the bell. The yellow circles indicate where a groove is cut into the metal to act as the float zone for a roller in a one-way bearing.
The blue thing is your imagination making it look like a roller in the groove.

You see all those tiny black/red spots that circle where the gear is pressed in from the other side. Those are open holes, grease can pass right through to the bearings and rolling surface while it's hot and steamy down there and all the hot gears grinding along eachother with all the lube flowing between them. Ahem.. Uh moving on.

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Sideways shot where the bearing rests in its grooves.
And here one of it on that shaft. Few more poses for the 3d thinkers.
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The image just above is an idea for some lube sinks, basically a small shallow groove cut into the surface and made smooth. If designed right they pull and push lube where it needs to go, think how tire tread cuts up fluids and pushes it out from under your wheels so you don't slide. An effective way to disperse grease or lubricants in a system and is a widely used idea in car transmissions when pressing fluid into small places.

At low speeds it should work well.

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This is basically self explaining right here, I drill paths for grease in the bolt and tap it for those threads. The grease tube attachment will be used to grease the bearing and collar. When finished a soldered shut jet will behave as a plug.

I know this will be a better way to apply lube to these parts, drilling a hole in the gear to alow you to grease is kinda odd.

Drilling the bolt will alow fresh grease exactly where it should go, and provide a bit more convenient way to get these areas properly greased.

Any questions just ask.
 
Good idea, do you remember seeing the bearings on certain wheels where you could grease a zerk and pack the bearings w/o removing the axle nut etc? Something like that would be ideal.
 
That would be perfect but the smallest zerk I can find that isn't made for nasa (aka not in my price range) is still too large for this bolt. This is why I'm cutting threads into it and making a custom grease fitting, talking of which..
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Here is the bolt locked into the plate, in case anyone cares the thread size on these particular bolts including the thread on the small bevel gear bolt are the same as most skateboard and roller skate axle threads. I recognized the thread right away and used a nut from one of my older skates to secure it to the plate with washers.

The second image is an idea of what's happening, the yellow bolt is drilled about 17mm deep from the top, then a hole in the side. The top portion in the head is drilled slightly larger, then tapped and a purple jet can be threaded in, securing the greaser to the bolt.

Thumbnails of standard drilling practice to a depth of 17mm
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May as well drill my fittings while we're here and have a solid base to work on. This will make the resistance of the grease application lower and easier to do in general. All parts are drilled to max possible size without disrupting the integrity of the fittings.
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Switch to a larger bit and some extra oil and cut my pilot for my threads.
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A small Super magnet and a small metal rod are well adapted to removing metal shavings and chips without flooding your workpiece in oils and you can leave fixed to the work surface. Observe:
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The butchered drill lets me hold the stationary back upright and vertical, which aligns the tap nicely, once threads begin cutting a few deep I swap to a plug from a taper tap. Only the chuck spins so I can steady the tap in the threads and feel my way deep into her nice and easy. Never managed to cross thread anything doing this, and I also use this to thread small 1.2mm holes too like this.

Anyway moving on to next post:
 
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Screw that, this is some very tough hardened steel. The material is a good idea I'll state. The stainless clutch bell will rather quickly work harden. It will form a very nice working surface with the much harder steel.

Behold my failure.
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OK so drilling this is not happening, I did cut grooves as planned on the surface of the crankshaft sleeve. This will act as a better distributor of grease in this appliances. I'd like to have done it better but for now I'll rotate the bell while greasing to get best spread.

Tough and almost looks like the steel was milled so it pulled grease inward..its hard to say other than the manufacturer picked the right materials.
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OK so let's get back to that grease gun like thing.
 
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This is the gun with the tip soldered to a brass fitting Yada Yada and to the bolt which has holes in it.

This is after squeezing the trigger 5 times, pressed about a cc roughly. Easily enough to get grease everywhere it's needed.
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