Jackshaft heavy duty freewheel breakdown

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Frankenstein

Deceased - Frankenstein 1991 - 2018
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Litteral break down. Friend had his rupture and so I gave him my freewheel for the time being, now I get to open them up. Mind that sickbikeparts sells a freewheel remover tool for use with the products they sell, don't buy it though because it isn't the right size, I had to hammer the knobs in towards the middle to make it catch the spline cuts on the freewheel.

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1: is that freewheel body, these are probably custom made by white industries, who is the company who supplies them the whole freewheel.

2: This is the inner race of the 6808 bearing used to mate the inside and outside freewheel parts together. One if the seals hopped into the bearing and blew it up into tiny bits, maybe 1 or 2 surviving ball bearings left.
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3: inner assembly and blue lockring. This part holes the paws and the spring to catch the inner surface of that outer freewheel.
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4: a rubber o-ring, retains the paws and has a sealing property.

5 the remaining shield, it's got the manufacturer, Enduro, printed with the bearing type.

6: 2 of the 3 paws and a small leaf spring. The paws themselves look like they are in working condition, it was just the bearing that imploded.

They actually machined the freewheel assembly to accept the rubber shield from one side of the bearing, that protect the paws from getting material in them. On this one something got between the crank and the freewheel and busted the seal.

The bike shop gave a base price of 15 bucks on the phone, which is 5 bucks cheaper than anything online. I will get one from them, and press it into place, then go about my other projects once it works. Better than the 70 or 80 charged for a new whole freewheel.
 

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Scary. You're screwed if this happens far from home. :eek:
So it sounds like a double row bearing (as in their ultra heavy duty freewheel) wouldn't have prevented this type of failure. What got in between the crank arm and freewheel to force the seal out of place, was it a trouser leg?
 
I'm guessing a botched attempt at oiling since he wanted to get grease inside, it was a year since it was installed and thought it needed it.

We removed my crank and freewheel from my bike today to serve in its place, mine was never opened or serviced, and felt and looked sound, so it's safe to say that it's better left intact unless you can properly feed it, mine has 2 years now I think on it without problems, I actually busted the pedal out of my threads on my crank but nothing else has problems.

A double wouldnt likely survive a shield in the bearings either, it's one of THOSE things.

Good news is a new bearing can be found for a nice price, also recommending now that anti-sieze is put on those threads, I had to use a bench vice and a one pound hammer and a wrench and 4 hands to break it loose. Even grease would be a good idea, anything to let you take it apart due maintenance time...
 
I made one .its a stock sprocket from a back wheel welded in a pedal sprocket so it's got spin back
 

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I had one of the heavy duty ones freeze up where the pawls wouldn't disengage. I was close to home so I just rode home with my legs sticking straight out. In another thread I mentioned this, and the guy from SBP (Pablo?) said they had a prob. with them as a few were sent out from the factory without the seals installed. Factory defect that has been corrected.
 
I believe most of the time my nuvinci was on the bike I was using that freewheel, it in either case, I have one single chain on my chainring to rear, friend has a derailleur, he kept bending his axle and that broke chains or threw them, they probably caused his freewheel to break under bad or sudden loads. He never kick starts or pedal starts the motor, only uses a pull... His breakdown was purely drivetrain related, however I remember him having one hell of an engine at a time and it was ripping through everything in the drivetrain too.

I'm confident I'll be able make work again.

About the seal problem, I bet it did happen! The manufacturer was supposed to remove the seal from one spot on the bearing and reinstall elsewhere on the assembly. If they forgot to put in the right place then the bearing would probably fail as soon as sand hits the bottom of the bike from the front wheel.
 
I made one .its a stock sprocket from a back wheel welded in a pedal sprocket so it's got spin back
I'm glad you did that, I was almost about to do the same thing just for the challenge with an old rear freewheel that I removed the cogs from.

Congrats for making it work so wheel! Lol, funny enough the drawings I made in my head had similar weld patterns that you picked. Nice! Very cool.

Obviously steel is steel, it has all the same properties as any other steel object really.
Break out the welder and build it!
 
I believe in build over buy to a fairly strong extent. Steve knows how it can get sometimes and being living in the middle of a very scarcely populated area. When you can't get something because it's just not available then you need to learn to work with what you have and know. Knowing a lot and having the right tools will make all things pretty easy when you can't buy something, or at least save your ass for some time.

That's why I love these forums too, definitely a nice catalog of endeavors related to our bikes. Pictures make it even better as it gives people an idea or dream to chase.

But in all seriousness, do it right, do it once, and be safe, I saw a guy earlier today with a motorized bike, I almost wanted to take his bike and drag it away because it had busted front shocks, rear brakes disconnected, and he wasn't wearing a helmet and his clutch cable was loose and non operational.....

More like a death machine at that point.

Gave him my clutch cable nut so he'd be less likely to die and exchanged phone numbers. Hopefully he'll be alive when I check up on him next.
 
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Got this bearing for 10 bucks at the local bike shop, it's not the right size but it will do fine as I only have to trim half a mm off the outer race. According to manufacturer specs this bearing should have 1.25mm of metal between the bearing and the outside of the race. There will be .75 mm left when I'm done.

This is a stainless steel bearing so the metalwork will be really easy. Since the outer race is resting against (thick) machined steel, so the load capability shouldn't be affected at all.

It's going to become a backup anyway. The ultra heavy duty is going to replace it as it has 2 bearings, which by the longevity the regular heavy duty shows the ultra will probably last the life of the bike, when cared for properly.
 
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