Shocks or springer forks

iRide Customs said:
skyl4rk,

Can you post a pic of your mtn. bike? Sounds like a sweet machine.

I think you mean Lowell's mountain bike. Here's mine, an electrified Giant Sedona.

2035_sedona_3.jpg


I have another bike on order, more of a cruiser style, that I need to get a front suspension for.
 
Sweet machine! Looks like a cushy ride with the forks and padded seat. Why no Hookworm on the back? You might get a little more top speed.

Dan
 
iRide Customs said:
Sweet machine! Looks like a cushy ride with the forks and padded seat. Why no Hookworm on the back? You might get a little more top speed.

Dan

The rear tire was what I had kicking around in a 24" on short notice. If I stick with this rear motor, I'd buy another 24" Hookworm to match the front. I still might go to a 20" rear rim, and some sort of 20x3 tire that's around 22" tall for a little more thrust. (the 24" Maxxis Holy Roller is 23.9" tall)

If I go that route, more voltage will be needed to give the minimum 50mph top speed I want.
 
Lowell said:
iRide Customs said:
Lowell said:
I currently run a Rock Shox Boxxer, but I've never tried a springer or any other design of front end. I have no doubt that a modern dual crown mountain bike fork offers the best performance possible though.
http://www.mtbr.com/reviews/2007_forks/product_128205.shtml

If I had to buy another fork, I'd probably look for something with larger tubes like a Fox 40. The thin walled lowers shouldn't be an issue for on road and light trail use.
http://www.mtbr.com/reviews/2007_forks/product_128191.shtml

Additionally, I highly recommend 20mm through axles on front wheels.

You run a Boxxer on your motorized bike?

When you say the thin walled lowers handling road and light trail use, are you referring to the Fox 40?

Dan

That fork is BIG $. Even used on ebay. you can find similar thru-axle forks on ebay but they still arent cheap. Mor than a lot of guys pay for their bikes total.

bicycles in general start really misbehaving above the mid-40 MPH range. I would never take an inexpensive bike even into the high 30 MPH range for fear of some component failing....


just my 2 cents.
 
In my opinion, good components are worth the money. I hate riding flexy flyer forks, unsafe brakes, cheap nasty tires, etc...

Before I installed the Hope 6 piston front brake set, I had some ****py Avid Juicy 7's. On a long downhill descent they faded badly, and I had to drag my feet to help stop the bike at the bottom.
 
... I am about to order some size converters from choppersus so I can fit the 1" size and I will be installing one of those front hub brakes.

I am not sure at this stage what I have to attach to the bottom of the fork to make the hub brake stop? Anyone have any ideas?
Normally with cruiser style drums, there's two ways it can be done.
The cheapo way is that there's an arm that sticks off the drum brake body with a hole in it, and you use a screw-on strap to fasten it to the left fork leg (rather like how most coaster-brake arms attach).

The expensive way is that most drum brakes have some sort of slot cut into the anchoring arm. You can weld a tab on the left fork blade that sticks inside (towards the wheel) and when you bolt the front wheel on, the slot in the drum brake fits over that tab to keep the drum brake from rotating.
~
 
Normally with cruiser style drums, there's two ways it can be done.
The cheapo way is that there's an arm that sticks off the drum brake body with a hole in it, and you use a screw-on strap to fasten it to the left fork leg (rather like how most coaster-brake arms attach).

The expensive way is that most drum brakes have some sort of slot cut into the anchoring arm. You can weld a tab on the left fork blade that sticks inside (towards the wheel) and when you bolt the front wheel on, the slot in the drum brake fits over that tab to keep the drum brake from rotating.
~

Thanks for the info DougC.

In the pictures I'd seen I thought I could see a clamp that attached to the fork for the drum brake but was not sure. I guess the cheapo method avoids messing up the chrome with welding so I'm thinking this is a better option if you don't have paint.

I also looked at disk brakes but the thing that put me off was welding the bracket to the forks. Choppersus have a great bracket for disk brakes that does not require any welding but when I was about to order they suggested that the fork would flex too much so I did not do it. (was very happy with them).

I think the drum gives that classic look with the springer.:cool:
 
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