Final Install of my Leaf Blowe Motor.

I'm using a 1.5" roller, and get a little over 30 mph with a TLE43. You can experiment with different sized rollers, but I think you may find that you chose a good diameter to begin with. How's the coating holding up on the roller?
 
I'm using a 1.5" roller, and get a little over 30 mph with a TLE43. You can experiment with different sized rollers, but I think you may find that you chose a good diameter to begin with. How's the coating holding up on the roller?

Not to bad so far. The bigger chunks of stones came off wich i was expecting that would happen, but the smaller pieces seem to be ok. I maybe have 10miles on it so far. If i Had some regular sand and JB weld, i think that would be the way to go. Also before applying to the roller, i used a file and went around the roller to make a rough surface to really bond to.
 
Pretty nice & inventive. You can buy a small grinding wheel , like the cheap ones you see with a 1/4" shank attached to use in a drill. Wrap grinding wheel in a rag, & beat it with a hammer til it is in granules. Mix this grit with t JB Weld, & apply a thin coat, as level as possible, to your pipe [ drive wheel ]. Last a very long time, not too hard on tires, & will even grip pretty well when tires are wet.
 
I have seen one homemade friction drive that uses a small inflated tire to press against your tire. It was probably on the forum somewhere.
 
You can buy a small grinding wheel , like the cheap ones you see with a 1/4" shank attached to use in a drill. Wrap grinding wheel in a rag, & beat it with a hammer til it is in granules. Mix this grit with t JB Weld, & apply a thin coat, as level as possible, to your pipe [ drive wheel ]. Last a very long time, not too hard on tires, & will even grip pretty well when tires are wet.

That is an interesting idea, but you can buy bags of graded abrasive grit (silicon carbide and other types) from stores that sell lapidary/rock tumbling supplies. This would save the hammerization time, unless the different sized pieces are useful. One of these days I am going to use that JB Weld idea to make some custom grinding bits.

-Sam
 
Hot70 - I see you are using Direct drive. Do you just pedal off to start? I have a folding bike with a direct drive but the engine has too much compression to do that. I am using a 7/8 roller and I think it needs to be larger, I don't need to go fast, but a higher gear will make it easier to start. I like making things on a simple scale. I used the engine off of a water pump, it actually had a shaft about 1/2 in diameter, I just sleeved it. It is a 45cc two smoke. I have three of them, all of them were left with water in the housing and there was nothing left to save in the pump. I used the belt material from a belt sander and then contact cement it to the shaft, overlapping in the direction of rotation to keep it from pealing off, I have only a few miles on it and the coarse belt is hard on the tires, I will have to buff it down. I am making a lever to move the engine off the tire at a stop. Thanks for making me think, I have not worked on this bike for years. Have fun, Dave
 
Hot70 - I see you are using Direct drive. Do you just pedal off to start? I have a folding bike with a direct drive but the engine has too much compression to do that. I am using a 7/8 roller and I think it needs to be larger, I don't need to go fast, but a higher gear will make it easier to start. I like making things on a simple scale. I used the engine off of a water pump, it actually had a shaft about 1/2 in diameter, I just sleeved it. It is a 45cc two smoke. I have three of them, all of them were left with water in the housing and there was nothing left to save in the pump. I used the belt material from a belt sander and then contact cement it to the shaft, overlapping in the direction of rotation to keep it from pealing off, I have only a few miles on it and the coarse belt is hard on the tires, I will have to buff it down. I am making a lever to move the engine off the tire at a stop. Thanks for making me think, I have not worked on this bike for years. Have fun, Dave

Yes, I Pedal to start it and yes it takes leg strength, BUT it only takes 2 or 3 revolutions of the pedals to start it, and off i go. I will not use this bike in town due to all the stop signs. What make it the easiest for me to start is that i also have a pull start on it, i use that to warm up my engine before i take off. I just lift up my bike by the back seat and let it warm up. I'm not that sure but i believe that your roller is to small, I had thought my roller was to small but , i was told that it is actually almost the perfect size 1 3/8.
 
That is an interesting idea, but you can buy bags of graded abrasive grit (silicon carbide and other types) from stores that sell lapidary/rock tumbling supplies. This would save the hammerization time, unless the different sized pieces are useful. One of these days I am going to use that JB Weld idea to make some custom grinding bits.

-Sam

You would be surprised how easy & cheap it is. They cost about a dollar, locally, & can be hammered out in less than a minute. Of course, like you mentioned, if a local place sells the grit, it might be better to buy a bag full, especially if you have many drive rollers to cover.
 
I just spent $80+ to buy a new roller and have it shipped up here. If the JB wears well, I can just recondition the one I have, and perhaps coat the new one in a surface that might work better when wet. I don't have any lapidary stores nearby, but I can get worn cutting wheels for free. Thanks for the idea.
 
different lighter and shorter drive shaft

here is a pic of my drive shaft that I am going to replace , because my other shaft wobbles to much and i took the time to make sure this is as true as it gets,because the other shaft the washer wasn't alligned perfectly making by bike vibrate to much. To give you all a heads up i'm not sure if the JB Weld was mixed properly but. when i went thru a puddle of water i could hear the engine wind but i wasn't going any faster. The weld was starting to come off of the shaft therefore taking all the grit off as well. I will keep you all posted.
 
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