L
likearock111
Guest
So I finally got some time to work on the bike tonight. I spun around the front fork (lol), attached the rear sprocket, and installed the chain. the HT "manual" that came with my kit was pretty sketchy, so I kind of did what made sense to me, but I'd love a bit of clarification.
1) When I was trying to thread the chain around the drive gear, I ran into the problem that it wouldn't fit without rotating the drive gear. I used this tube-like wrench that came with the kit to spin the gear and thread the chain - is this OK to do without any lubrication on the piston? It seemed awfully hard to turn.
2) I was under the impression that the position of the clutch arm would engage/disengage the drive gear from the piston's action, but it seemed that no matter what position the clutch arm was in, it was very very hard (basically impossible) to pedal the bike once the chain was attached to the drive gear. Is this the way it should be?
3) How tight is too tight for the rear sprocket bolts/nuts? I ended up tightening them until the lock washers that came with the kit became flat (like normal washers). I know that this has a lot to do with the probability of breaking spokes - should I go for the side of over- or under-tightening?
4) The included chain tensioner doesn't really rotate as I thought it should. I have the standard cheap-o version that basically has a teflon (I think) wheel bolted to a metal plate. I found that, because the bolt that fixes the height of the teflon wheel has to be tight in order to lock in the wheel height, the teflon wheel is prevented from spinning. Is this normal, or should I be worried? I know, I know... I should prolly just get a better tensioner.
Thanks for all your help so far. Now I've got the tank, carb, and cables left... getting excited to ride this thing!
Peace,
Likearock
1) When I was trying to thread the chain around the drive gear, I ran into the problem that it wouldn't fit without rotating the drive gear. I used this tube-like wrench that came with the kit to spin the gear and thread the chain - is this OK to do without any lubrication on the piston? It seemed awfully hard to turn.
2) I was under the impression that the position of the clutch arm would engage/disengage the drive gear from the piston's action, but it seemed that no matter what position the clutch arm was in, it was very very hard (basically impossible) to pedal the bike once the chain was attached to the drive gear. Is this the way it should be?
3) How tight is too tight for the rear sprocket bolts/nuts? I ended up tightening them until the lock washers that came with the kit became flat (like normal washers). I know that this has a lot to do with the probability of breaking spokes - should I go for the side of over- or under-tightening?
4) The included chain tensioner doesn't really rotate as I thought it should. I have the standard cheap-o version that basically has a teflon (I think) wheel bolted to a metal plate. I found that, because the bolt that fixes the height of the teflon wheel has to be tight in order to lock in the wheel height, the teflon wheel is prevented from spinning. Is this normal, or should I be worried? I know, I know... I should prolly just get a better tensioner.
Thanks for all your help so far. Now I've got the tank, carb, and cables left... getting excited to ride this thing!
Peace,
Likearock