Happy-Time Magneto Installation Video

hey scottm,

I don't care about proud much, I want easy.
Although I do get off on creating
something really unique.

It turns a 15 minute back ache ride to the surf, into a 5 min cruise.
thats got my vote, and why I really started down this path.

fetor, I have been offered a replacment barrell,
when I am ready to do it.

I repaired the barrell, and think its ok,
but I would love to do a compression check on it,
just to make sure.

Will have to visit a real mechanic for that,
as sticking your thumb over the plug hole is a bit
on the coarse side for a quality test.

CYA

WWWill Start

(thats me stuttering, not that US president, we all love to be amazed he's actually president)
 
Just would like to feedback on those bolt holes by the carby intake, I have them to and discovered this only an a hour ago.
I prodded the holes with a plastic and I don't think it's serious, but it is concerning.
My motor is brand new and not started yet, I have a temporary motored bike I'm using with the 70cc engine to get me around and it has no holes, where the 50cc seems to have holes.

I think it's a casting error, I don't like it either, might be a idea to try blocking those holes with
Selly's plastic metal mix, so no corrosion and dirt sets in ??
 
Just would like to feedback on those bolt holes by the carby intake, I have them to and discovered this only an a hour ago.
I prodded the holes with a plastic and I don't think it's serious, but it is concerning.
My motor is brand new and not started yet, I have a temporary motored bike I'm using with the 70cc engine to get me around and it has no holes, where the 50cc seems to have holes.

I think it's a casting error, I don't like it either, might be a idea to try blocking those holes with
Selly's plastic metal mix, so no corrosion and dirt sets in ??
Show us some pics,but off-hand NO happy time engine should have casting error holes anywhere on the barrel....to me it's just an area of weakness,hence metal fatigue then failure.
I have the 50cc and it's fine,but by all means do a Search and if nothing has been posted start a thread.
Other MBc members have the right to know.................Chinese,sheesh. :rolleyes:
 
I've seen people seal the join between the carb and the inlet pipe,
by using a aluminium can.

I will have probably done this by someday this week, but...
from above.

3. Seal the carb with the glass sealant shown in this Vid.
Is that a bad idea ?


anyone tried this ?

If its sucking air into the carbie, then a sealant is whats needed.
I know I'm getting fuel in that gap.

The downside would be having to do it each time you
unsealed the carbie.

Upside, if you had this glue with you on the road, you could
easily repair your bike with a small tube.

am realising everyone has access to different glues...
whatever works for you.

Will.
 
It's directly inline where the carby stud threads end, as if the thread tap tool went too far and poked out some alloy.

It is not in a space where stress or strain would occurr because it's sort of between the air fins, BUT very close to the outer casting of the cylinded stud round had the thread tap kept going.
Blocking it would be fine I think and just know it's there for future reference if replacing the carby studs. Know the max length.
I would like to see the Chinese manufacturers or their design and engineering staff to read all these error and quality bashes that are being posted, surely thay must know by now ?
 
Glad to hear I inspired you. Did you have your multi tester on 2 horse shoe setting thing or the 200 horse shoe setting thing?
 
2 horse shoes ? no wonder newbies get confused.
check the vid, it was the 2000 ohm setting.

am looking forward to working on me bike this week.
I've a list of ideas to try....

WS.
 
Hello,

My bikes update.

After the magneto install, and the associated vid,
my bike ran for one night only.

(sounds like other areas of my life, but lets not go there!)

The next two nights I moved the e-clip to postion two and four, added some fuel
and after a total of 10 block laps, got no ignition, but did get very sweaty twice.

I completely ignored my own advice, and forgot to change the idle screw.
But I don't think thats the issue.

Its probably that the carbie is leaking air in from the carbie to motor connector.
I'll have to try the aluminium can trick.

I went to a hardware store and they had a can of Start ya B****ard.($17)
Literally, thats what it was called, but no Aero-Start. I check a service
station and they had it for $18. I've seen it at SuperCheap Auto for $8 a small can.
OK, so I'm tight. spent too much for too little gain so far...

I'm thinking of strapping/taping a can to the bike, so I can give it a squirt whenever
I need to start it.

I think that'll be the next vid. One with me riding and squirting the B. can.
I have a vid thats almost complete, sort of a travel montage, plus bikes.
Will post that to vids when done.

CYA
Will.
 
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I am going to wire in kill switch across blue to black,
as heard that its better to short than over-load the magneto.

Stay Positive, It Helps.

CYA

Will Start



Will it's better I think to simply cut off the magneto than to short or overload it. That's how cars and motorcycles do it.
Read this:
http://www.motoredbikes.com/showthread.php?t=8579

I mean have you heard of anything else that uses a short the magneto approach to cutting off an engine?
Maybe it's out there but it just doesn't make any sense to me.
 
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