Play in Piston / Connecting Rod. Some ticking

D

Deleted member 12676

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• Sep 6, 2015

• #11

if there is free play at the upper rod bearing then you need to change that bearing out immediately.
you can use solder on top of the piston, turn the engine over slowly, then see if the solder was squashed. measure what its minimum squashed thickness is. It should not be less than .3mm, and if so then you need more gaskets.

 

W

willie634

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• Sep 8, 2015

• #12

This problem has arised with two new engines.
(The engines not not modified, except for me trueing the head section. I putt a thicker bottom gasket to accommodate the thicker head gasket it came with.)

Connecting rod labelled "Z-L"

This video shows the different models of engines by connecting rod!!:-/

 

Last edited by a moderator: Dec 15, 2015

D

Deleted member 12676

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• Sep 8, 2015

• #13

you should be able to see at the top of the piston if it is hitting the head or a gasket that extend inward

 

W

willie634

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• Sep 8, 2015

• #14

I put an extra thick bottom gasket on last new engine to be sure it didn't touch.

Ohh... and changing to a new wrist pin bearing did nothing. Even tried new wrist pin on last engine and that didnt help either.

The only way it could have touched the gasket was by ash buildup on piston head. Checked piston a few times and no signs of contact.

The ethanol free seems to avoid ash buildup. So next engine will be ethanol free from the beginning.

 

D

Deleted member 12676

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• Sep 8, 2015

• #15

but you said there was free play at that wrist pin bearing (which can only be fixed by replacing the bearing unless the rod or wrist pin is worn down which is unlikely)

 

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willie634

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• Sep 8, 2015

• #16

There was free play in first engine after using. Then I got new engine. New engine had no play, but developed play again, even with extra thick bottom gasket



The wrist pin bearings that came with these engines were different than normal ones I have seen. All the pins were tight and not free floating like other bearings

 

crassius

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• Sep 8, 2015

• #17

I'd be curious what would happen if the motors were to be run right out of the box with no mods to heads or gaskets.

 

W

willie634

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• Nov 24, 2015

• #18

I went back to original head bolt setup. Hand tight and back a quarter turn, and no double bolt needed. After more testing i did notice that they dont move around.

Have been running motor for months with no problems. Ticking noise is still there but doesn;t seem to be big issue.

What i have learned now is that on a new engine i would not mod head unless there is a head leak. Just leave it alone! Its nice to sand the head and make a new seal, but just taking it apart and messing with it can make things not run as smooth.