Kill switch a killer?

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Hope these are of some use. Notice the fuel catching in the rim, which is puzzling, to me, anyway. The pet cock is closed, the bike seems level (???), and yet... I've tried to sneak up on it to catch it, but, like watching a boiling pot...well, you know. Anyway, I see where even a stuck float, one cracked or ruined, or debris or crud in the bowl could possibly explain the same problem.

Strange, looking back I see the filter has always leaked. There's always been drippings on the floor. But since the bike ran, I considered it inconsequential (Duh!).

I'll be removing and cleaning the carb later this morning. Got to say I've anxious, in a good way, about tackling this project, my first.

bakaneko, guess you know by now, the answer to your question is a big fat: no. In fact, the switch in no longer in the equation. But thanks for your interest.

Two things. In the pix the wires leading from the mag are intentionally where they are for purpose of the pix. I'm aware they are supposed to be affixed and no where near the exhaust, etc. The other thing, didn't know how to make the pix smaller. Won't happen again, promise.
 
<SOME SNIPPED>
the only reliable way to kill them is to either prevent the cap from charging (bypass it with a resistor) or prevent it discharging (disconnecting gate on SCR)... the standard way of just shorting or open circuiting the wires fries things.... did i say it in this thread already?

shorting the wires creates a high current low voltage in the magneto that fuses fine wires.

breaking the wires causes a high voltage low current that breaks down thin insulation between wires.

you need somewhere for the voltage and current, POWER, to flow...but you also need to dissipate it safely when not required! or things get hot real quick. we do this by adding resistance somewhere.
<SOME SNIPPED>

So what is the recommendation?
A resistor on the kill switch wire?
 
My kill switch is wired according to the instructions. But when pressed, nothing happens. The engine continues to rev. At first I thought the kill switch was faulty, so I ordered another, but nothing changed. I'm having to turn the engine off by releasing the clutch, but that feels unhealthy Please help!
 
All you need to do to kill the engine is short out the 2 wires going into the CDI, typically black and blue, if you have a white wire just cut the damn usless thing off the engine.

You can short the CDI input wires together with the momentary kill button like most throttles have, a toggle switch, or even a KeyLock switch, or any combination of them.

Personally I cut the crappy wires off the magneto and the CDI and re-solder in a nice piece of double insulated black 16g cable, and top off the CDI with a keylock box.

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If the keylock switch is off the bike will start.
The momentary throttle kill button works.
But if the key is on however, it shorts out the CDI and it will never start without the key ;-}
 
Thanks for your reply. Wow that's a nice bike. Do you have a build thread for it so we can get a better view?
So you use the key as a kill switch? Just like a real vehicle - turn it off to kill the motor?
Where is that key lock CDI available to buy?
And I can't stop oogling your main crank setup as well as the engine mount. Details?
Cheers
 
Thanks for your reply.
Wow that's a nice bike. Do you have a build thread for it so we can get a better view?
So you use the key as a kill switch? Just like a real vehicle - turn it off to kill the motor?
I have some good keylock pics in this topic.
http://kcsbikes.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=661

Yes, you can use the keylock to kill the engine, it just easier to use the kill button, and the keylock for when you want to secure it.

Where is that key lock CDI available to buy?
And I can't stop oogling your main crank setup as well as the engine mount. Details?
Cheers
I used to sell my keylock system when I had time on my hands, I don't anymore but you can e-mail me from my web sites Contact link and I'll see if I can set you up.

All the shift kit parts are at http://SickBikeParts.com
If you want to see other examples of that system I have 21 of them from this link.
http://kcsbikes.com/KCsBuilds.asp?motor=2-stroke&Drive=Yes

Hope that helps ya ;-}
 
Wow, thanks for all the info!

I checked my bike and here's how the wiring is set up. Black and blue from CDI connect to black and blue from engine. Green wire from kill switch connected to ground on engine block, yellow from kill switch to the white wire from engine. I did this when installing the engines several months ago, according to the instructions in the booklet.

The kill switch does nothing. I now realize it's actually shorting out the live aux wire (white) on the engine block.
Perhaps I misunderstood and the green needs to go to the black wire (ground inside CDI)? And the yellow to the blue? So the white is not supposed to connect to anything?

See pic below for my setup.
 

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Wow, thanks for all the info!

The kill switch does nothing. I now realize it's actually shorting out the live aux wire (white) on the engine block.
Perhaps I misunderstood and the green needs to go to the black wire (ground inside CDI)? And the yellow to the blue?
So the white is not supposed to connect to anything?
The kill button wire colors don't matter, it's just a momentary button.
Cut that damn white wire off inside the magneto cover, it's only purpose is to cause you grief.

Do you have an Ohm meter and know how to use it?
It's simple to test a button, either it shorts out (zero ohms) when you press or it don't.
If the button is good just wire it across the black and blue wires ;-}
 
The four months I've been riding my 2-stoke Skyhaw bike has been, as the Craig list's seller said it would be, a complete blast! I have not a bit of worry or moment of regret -- well not exactly, but that's nothing to do with the bike, and for another post. But this is for something that is indeed cause for worry and concern. Two, three months into the almost daily riding, maybe 5 to 10 miles a day at most, the kill switch went dead. Just wouldn't work anymore. I'd press the button, only after coasting to an almost dead stop, but the engine would still be purring pretty as ever. I'd gently release the clutch and she would halt, pretty as you please.

Couple of weeks ago I'd riding along and the engine/motor just stops. Bike keeps going with the momentum, the engine stops as if somebody pulled the plug. And it wouldn't start, after twenty or so attempts. I noticed the coil leading from the CDI seemed a bit frazzled so I ordered a souped-up CDI from bikeberry, along with a new 3-point plug (I know there's a bit of a row about this, but I have other types as well}. Took the bike out today and she still won't turn over. I hear and feel the poppin' compression, but no, just like before she won't turn.

I notice on You Tube some jokers with otherwise good working bikes are often stalled on starting because of the kill switch. Tho it's never made clear just how that keeps an otherwise good bike for turning over. Just how does that happen? Could that be at the root of my problem? If so, how did the bike continue to perform even after the switch was a goner. I'd like to order another one, but I sure would like to know if there something else I should look at which might be at fault before having to spend another week waiting for something which may not be the cause at all, get me? Appreciate any insight from you good folks.
Get rid of the switch. In fact, don't use a switch at all. Just stall the engine using the choke or let the clutch out a little. I've been doing this for four years of hard riding and the clutch pads are hardly worn. As for the engine, she's running like new still.
 
Get rid of the switch. In fact, don't use a switch at all.
Just stall the engine using the choke or let the clutch out a little.
Bad advice.
You should always have a quick way to kill the engine.
It's no fun if you can't...

IF you wreck and can't kill the engine it sucks.
It's just a mindless switch or button that shorts out the ignition (black and blue wires)
 
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