Changing the roller on a Staton kit

[mifletz]

How easy is it to change the roller on a Staton kit?

Can the average person do it?

What exactly is the procedure?

[5-7HEAVEN]

For an average DIYer it is not easy and is expensive.

After the engine is taken out, remove the Staton engine housing. Take it to the machinist. He will press out the friction roller. If the bearings and roller are still good, set the unit aside for possible future use.

If the roller is 1.25" or smaller in diameter, you can try to remove the roller yourself. Remove the outboard bearing circlip, then try pressing or pounding out the unit towards the engine side.

On Staton kits, bearings are pressfit onto the friction roller and the aluminum housing. That makes it difficult to remove and reinstall bearings and rollers.

I have Staton friction rollers and bearings on a BMP friction drive. After modifying the rollers for slipfit onto the bearings, removal is in less than 60 seconds.

If the machinist can take you in, maybe you can do the roller change in a few hours.

[moondog]

I think they are press fit for a reason. One to keep everything tight and balanced. You don't want the steel bearing wobbling in the aluminum at all.

The aluminum channel is also tight on the bearings when they get warm or hot and helps carry the heat away, like a heatsink.

Vern says that heating the channel in an oven should make the bearings easy to pop out.

Heat the channel and put the bearings in the freezer to install ?

I have not tried.

[5-7HEAVEN]

Personally, I cannot deal with pressfit drive units. This is because I change engines often. To accomodate the engines' different rpm range, I need to change roller sizes. I do not have a press, so removing and reinstalling noisy bearings and different rollers got to be too expensive.

BMP uses a slip fit on the bearings' inner and outer diameters. I figured that if it was good enough for this vendor, it's good enough for me.

This is not to say that my slip-fitting the Staton friction rollers onto a BMP friction drive unit is the right way to do it. It works well for me because the bearings and roller are removed and reinstalled in the time that a good swimmer can hold his breath. There are no labor costs involved so that's a plus.

I can still remember the times that I tried to R&R the roller and bearings out of my Staton friction drives. It was an expensive and a labor-intensive chore each time I did so.

[eastwoodo4]

just a tip.them bearings are common.they get used on a lot of snapper mower parts.their just a caged bearing.you should be able to find them at a good hardware store like pickets.i found them around my town for 2.50 each.

this is the same bearing i believe.you can find them even cheaper than this.
i would get a set for each roller and avoid having to press them off and on.

http://www.mymowerparts.com/partdetail/1064/14027.php

[moondog]

Originally Posted by 5-7HEAVEN

Personally, I cannot deal with pressfit drive units. This is because I change engines often. To accomodate the engines' different rpm range, I need to change roller sizes. I do not have a press, so removing and reinstalling noisy bearings and different rollers got to be too expensive.

BMP uses a slip fit on the bearings' inner and outer diameters. I figured that if it was good enough for this vendor, it's good enough for me.

This is not to say that my slip-fitting the Staton friction rollers onto a BMP friction drive unit is the right way to do it. It works well for me because the bearings and roller are removed and reinstalled in the time that a good swimmer can hold his breath. There are no labor costs involved so that's a plus.

I can still remember the times that I tried to R&R the roller and bearings out of my Staton friction drives. It was an expensive and a labor-intensive chore each time I did so.

Right ? BMP went from aluminum to steel for a reason.

A 4" x 8" x 12" long piece of 1/4" thick aluminum rectangular tubing costs $23 where I live. That will make 2 friction drive channels so I don't think it is the cost of materials.

I am thinking that hole Staton put in the side of that channel is very precision made with a tool that cost a lot of money.

[eastwoodo4]

talk about a deal!10 of those bearings for 14.00 dollars.http://cgi.ebay.com/10-499502H-NR-Se...item5ad47b5f79

[5-7HEAVEN]

Yes, I buy my bearings on ebay for a great deal.

BTW, if the Staton roller is 1.375" or larger, it will not pass thru the housing's 1.375" bearing holes. This makes it VERY difficult to remove the bearings or roller. I had the machinist remove it for me for $85.

FWIW, my Staton 1.375" roller measurers 1.42".

[cpuaid]

ouch!!! sounds like i need to move over to a BMP kit. I love my Staton kit but not if its going to cost me $35.95 for a replacement 1.5" roller, $5.95 per bearing, and $85 install. Love the easy roller removal for the BMP but wished they had a 1.5" knurled roller.

[5-7HEAVEN]

Yeah, easy R & R and cost are the reasons I chose BMP kits. A good assortment of agressive sturdy rollers is why I chose Staton spindles.

The best of both worlds.