Scooterguy Mount With Tanaka 47R Engine

5-7,

You probably have a stronger build with using the 8mm chain for the engine to drive on. I run 1/2 x 1/8 BMX chain on mine. The disadvantage is I don't think(but not sure) it is as strong as 8mm chain, however the advantages is that it is easy to come by and I don't have to wait for it to come in the mail and it is readily available if I break down at any bike shop. I can also use a standard rear derailleur wheel to make/fashion a chain tensioner wheel.


If you do not have one of these, I highly recommend trying to make one that will mesh with your 8mm chain. It is best to run it on the right/front side, not the load side, and you will find your drive chain falling off the chainring problems subside significantly.

Hope this helps,
 
The standard derailleur pulley won't work as a tensioner. I tried.:sick:

Maybe a skateboard wheel will work.:unsure:
 
5-7,

Couldn't tell you about the skateboard wheel, Haven't tried one. If you can get with Hawaii Ed and see if he has an extra tensioner wheel from one of his china 68.5/80cc kits I think this will work for you, or you could probably get one off of ebay. It has a channel groove lip on outer edges to keep the chain from falling off the tensioner wheel and I think it will roll the 8mm chain nicely for you. I would loose the mounting hardware though that comes with the wheel. It is shoddy and a bulky/weighty mass one does not need attached to our nice bikes. Take the wheel off an mount it on something lighter/better. I used a rear rack stay support brace for mine. It works good.
 
I tried a skateboard wheel on my Staton chaindrive. It seemed to have worked pretty well. Will keep working on it.

I should contact Jerry, the Scooterguy.:unsure:
 
I have all kinds of happy time pieces lol! I am sure we'll work it out...takes some tweaking on these chain drives :)
 
I totally forgot to post pics lol!
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Hot Muffler!

That shiny pipe gave me THREE second-degree burns that day!:sick:

Should've taken pics of the burns. lol

I replaced that ADA S1 pipe with a stock Mitsubishi "can", the hose and a $6 SBP muffler. The engine was VERY loud because of leaky exhaust flange. Now it's legal-quiet, STILL has awesome power.

After McD's, the guys and I were headed to Home Depot to look for a leather "welder's sleeve". I figure that an extra-large sleeve could be tailored to fit my leg.

That way, I can re-install the shiny pipe back onto the Tanaka engine. LOL

You are gazing at probably the three fastest bikes in Honolulu.:geek:

Besides Hawaii Ed's 57mph bike, the other one is Rick's Specialized with Honda GX35 engine, Staton chaindrive ANNND NuVinci hub!:bowdown:

To keep up with Ed and me, Rick is swapping in my GP460 engine that I'm loaning him.

Now Ed and I will be trying to keep up with HIM! LOL:bowdown:

BTW, the front mount is made of BMP aluminum support struts.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
5-7,
Regarding chain guides/tensioners, I had a similar problem with the chain jumping off the sprocket and decided that the skate wheel would be the thing. However, I didn't use it to TENSION the chain, but only to GUIDE it onto the sprocket on the slack side. I actually had to add links to do this. Tension is maintained on the power side of the chain with a Tractor Supply (Baja MotorSports) spring roller. However, the spring is VERY lightweight (not the original) and just keeps the chain from developing a harmonic oscillation. The way the skate wheel guide is setup, it can't let the chain come off the sprocket. There is just no room for it to jump. Yet the chain passes through both without any drag.
So far I've got a couple of hundred miles on this setup and ZERO chain problems.
Smooth and quiet.
 

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