08 NE5 rookie need help!

Discussion in 'Whizzer Motorized Bicycles' started by RusticoRay, Aug 21, 2008.

  1. RusticoRay

    RusticoRay Member

    Hello all, I took my clutch off bike after a few miles 30 to see if I could speed up the breakin. After I got distacted and lost to the sequence of bolt and washers I couldnt figure out how to get to the shoes to take glaze off? I thought Id ask before I try something that didnt seem right prying it off. I called Texas for the bolt sequence (1)Bolt left hand thread (2)1 Large 1 1/2" washer(3) 1 gold color washer? (4) Clutch (5)2 washers for spacers. I did get distracted but Im 99.9% that gold washer was not on new bike(very clean work area). I posted a Album with pics of clutch,bolts and washers. I havent figured out how to post to a thread yet any help would be appreciated.
     

  2. Quenton Guenther

    Quenton Guenther Motored Bikes Sponsor

    Hi RusticoRay,
    Before you try to service the clutch it will help to identify which version you have. There are many versions, but your main concern it to tell if it is the latest edition or not. Almost all of the earlier models could be pulled apart easily, unless the bearing surface is damaged. The last version had larger ball bearings and a one-way bearing that replaced the 3 section needle bearing and seals used on earlier versions. The bearing ramp is approx. 30 MM O.D. and the center of the ball bearing is approx. 30 MM I.D., therefore it is a tight fit, but you must separate the clutch in order to service it. Do not try to pry it apart! It must be pressed or gently tapped apart. I usually use a large socket that fits the edge of the 30 MM bearing race, and tap gently, and the halves slowly separate [do not hit the actual ball bearing anywhere]. If you need pictures, just email me at quincy163@yahoo.com. I have serviced several of the later versions and because they no longer use the grease seals, the grease managed to find its way to the shoes causing them to slip more than normal. I simply wiped the grease from the shoes with a damp rag, removed the glaze from the shoes, put back together, and it worked OK.
    A few comments about the spacers [1] bolt, [2] large washer, [3] 2 washers or brass washer [with a step down], [4] 2 washers or a brass washer [with a step down]. The 2 small washers will interchange with the brass washer depending on where they work best. If you don't have enough space between the clutch and the arm it may rub against the smaller bearing, if there is too little space between the large washer and the clutch the washer will rub against the clutch and damage both the clutch and the washer. The object is to have a little clearance between the large washer and the hub, and install the remaining washer to keep the arm from contacting the outer edge of the small bearing, or rub against the drive hub.
    Hope this helps,
    Quenton
     
    Last edited: Aug 21, 2008
  3. RusticoRay

    RusticoRay Member

    Im beginning to think the 2 washers I put on against the arm came with one washer on each side of clutch no gold washer. I hadnt rode it like that but I was waiting for gold washer from whizzer. Sounds like I should beable to clean grease and glaze put back and ride whoo
     
  4. del

    del Guest

    Howdy, RRay,

    I had a problem with the clutch slipping on my '07.

    I read Quenton's article from a while ago about speeding up the clutch break-in. But I was afraid of going after the clutch pads with a Dremel tool. (I've had to learn the hard way about how those tools can quickly turn innocent parts into scrap...)

    So, first I tried coarse sandpaper. That didn't do the job. Then I tried the fine-toothed side of a wood rasp. Still, not much progress. So I bit the bullet and used a Dremel with an abrasive drum. As you might guess, Quenton was right. That did the trick.

    And, like you, I had problems with the spacer washers. (I must have lost 1 or 2
    when, in the process of taking the clutch off, the neighbor's dog came over, got all excited, and started begging me for a pet.) An order from Texas fixed that.

    But, when I finally got it all back together I found that the belts must have been out of alignment since I first got the Whizzer. I don't know if the '08, with the new clutch, is different. But it's something you might want to check. Nicely aligned belts make a difference, not only in having less friction, but in making your clutch last longer.

    If you haven't already done so, you can read the thread about belt alignment at:

    http://www.motoredbikes.com/showthread.php?t=14390

    --del
     
  5. RusticoRay

    RusticoRay Member

    If I were new and without the help of this site, I would have brought the bike back. Id be *****in about how the auto clutch and Whizzer stink and would have missed the whole experience. That would have been a bummer. Why dont they break them in. I wonder how many folks that balked at a Whizzer. Del the dog ate your homework likely excuse hope your clutch and belts are movin ya forward. I got the clutch apart thanks to the visual aid that Quenton sent me(pictures). I used 36 grit sandpaper to get rid of glaze on shoes. Although the gold washer came today I used what was on there originally, put 200mi. over the weekend and some today. Seems as though everything lines up with one small washer on both sides of clutch. Im gonna put the gold aside for know . Also got a offset set post from Texas and it moved my seat back three inches and up one. On a 24" NE5 its a nicer fit for both my wife and I. How much mileage is to much at breakin? I was lovin it I could have put 500 over the weekend. I change the Oil at 50, 50 and 100 and stopped and let it cool down many times.
     
  6. RusticoRay

    RusticoRay Member

    Chirping clutch

    So now the auto clutch chirps just above idle.If I walk the bike forward or do 2, 3 miles and hour. If I give it some throttle and mph no chirps. I took off and noticed that the large sleeve has came out a 1/4" in other words looking at the face the outer most ring. I took a couple of pics but my card reader has pooped out. Crude photo but arrow is where it moved out the whole circle. If I send it to Texas at least two weeks turn around. Dealer where I puchased to swap out with another bike cause I know he hasnt any parts is an option maybe or suggestions.
     

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  7. Quenton Guenther

    Quenton Guenther Motored Bikes Sponsor

    Hi RusticoRay,
    If the bearing sleeve moved, I would have to say it would be rare, however someone on this site also had the sleeve loosen. I have never seen that problem myself, but should be an easy fix. If in fact the sleeve has moved, call me and I will tell you a very quick and easy fix. If it isn't the sleeve the only other possiblity I can think of is the ball bearing may have seated deeper into the hub, and might require another look at the spacers [washers] needed to affix to the arm. Let us know what you find.

    Have fun,
    Quenton
     
  8. RusticoRay

    RusticoRay Member

    clutch nightmare

    Im emotionally rung out from my running around today over a certain auto clutch newest version. Now that my rant is over, I went to option two and got a new clutch off of another new in the box 3/08 manufacted date whizzer. Green in color by the way could be camoed easy for a cool bike I installed it and ran it around the block toke apart to dremel shoes put back on bike and went for a ride short came back and went to repeat and holly molly same seperation. The first two photos are of the first clutch the one that chirped like crazy. The second two are of the clutch I got today with less than ten miles on it
     

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  9. Egor

    Egor Guest

    I hate to say this but this is a quality issue. That being said I love the Whizzer, but I have a list of complaints, I will not go over. That being said I love the Whizzer. I guess you know what I love, I have to put my wife first though. I have what I am being told is an 06. Its a 24" large header auto clutch green. There is a possibility that you will have to go and get the early clutch, not that it is without any problem but it has a way to keep the bearings from shifting out of the housing. I have noticed that Whizzer has the audacity to try new ideas on there customers, and that there is no standard each run of manufacture is different. I have not seen a clutch like the one in your pic, but I know how it is moving, they forgot to install an inside circlip. There is ether a shoulder in the middle of the bearings and a spacer that keeps the bearings from going on a bind when snugged up, but the whole outfit needs to be precision assembled, and they are not willing to do that. If Whizzer is not careful they are going to run all the customers away, not everyone is willing to go threw a barrage of work to keep one going. You will get there, sorry to hear that it is not going well. Good luck, it is worth it. Have fun, Dave
     
  10. RusticoRay

    RusticoRay Member

    I dont like being the trial ballon but I love this bike, Im willing to put up with this situation if It get cleared up soon. I was told by Texas that they have no 70mm clutchs and it will be 10 days to get more in. Hopefully with Quality control takin care of. I took a nail set the only tool I had with a harded tip and tapped the outer edge of aluminum where the race sleeve is supposed to be pressed and not able to slide out. I took it out and its seems to be staying there so I will ride it like that until the new clutch comes or another suggestion comes along. Thanks for words off incouragement Ill get this thing right with help from here. No long rides just short ones for now.
     
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