1999 Whizzer rear belt

Discussion in 'Whizzer Motorized Bicycles' started by jroyse, Aug 28, 2012.

  1. jroyse

    jroyse Member

    Don't think mine has the correct rear belt. Can somebody get me a length and part number for one? This slipping belt thing is driving me nuts. Been fighting this all summer. I have moved the engine, played with the cable adjustment, went thru 3 front belts, moved the rear wheel, all to no avail. If I get things tight enough to run the bike, it will stall at idle due to belt drag. If I go looser everything slips then I can't even get up the driveway or pedal start the bike. AAAHHHHHRRRRGGG!!!

    Jim
     

  2. jroyse

    jroyse Member

    More info on the above question. My current front belt is a NAPA 28.5 inch. The engine is as far forward as possible. No more room in the mounting slots. The rear belt is a 62 inch and the rear wheel on't go into the frame slots, so I need a longer belt on the rear- or a shorter belt on the front. Good grief I'm going broke buying belts and still can't ride the thing. Hate to say this but my other bike, a Chins bike runs perfect.
    Jim
     
  3. jbcruisin

    jbcruisin Member

    If you moved your engine back you should be able to move your rear wheel back.
     
  4. jroyse

    jroyse Member


    Sounds right but if I move the engine back that will loosen the front belt. I'm about one or two days away from parting out this bike. Nothing seems to work. The belt set up just doesn't look like its ever going to work. I currently have 7 belts and have tried every combination. I get one tight the other slips, get them both tight the engine stalls. I'm at my wits end.
     
  5. Quenton Guenther

    Quenton Guenther Motored Bikes Sponsor

    Hi jroyse,

    While it can be a challenge, it is possible to make the manual clutch work on the new edition Whizzers.

    The majority of the problem is caused by mis-understandings. The object is to make the "clutch" work correctly by first adjusting the front belt. It will help if I explain the differences between the vintage Whizzer clutch and the new edition version. The vintage system had a special clutch handle and had a longer throw, meaning it pulled the clutch arm a longer distance, secondly the clutch arm attached to the motor with pin not a bolt for a much tighter fit. To add to the problem the clutch arm wasn't the correct length causing the front belt to rub the bottom of the belt guard mounting post, and of course using a FHP belt around small pulleys was another minor issue. The FHP belt runs hot and often trys to enguage the clutch at idle when stopped.

    Sounds like you already obtained the correct front belt [15285] and has notches to work around smaller pulleys.

    I would suggest you remove the rear belt from the sheave, loosen all the motor mount bolts, move the motor as far to the rear as possible and determine what needs to be done to make the front belt tighter. If the spring isn't pulling the arm high enough to pull the belt tight, shorten the spring. Don't forget to loosen the clutch cable adjustment to allow the arm to move as high as possible. Next I would tighten the bottom motor mount bolt, place a wedge [use wood] between the top rear of the motor and force the motor forward untill the belt is "snug", not extra tight. Next check and adjust the clutch cable to make sure the belt loosens enough to release the front belt when stopped, and must be set with the metal belt guide installed [was part of the belt guard on early versions]. When satisfied it is working close to correct, tighten all the motor mount bolts. Install the rear belt on the sheave and make sure it doen't pull the clutch downward in the process.

    The AX numbers on the rear belt doesn't translate to actual length. An AX 62 is 64" long, AX 61 is 63" long, etc. Always use AX or automotive wedge belts because of the small pulleys.

    You are welcome to contact me direct and I can "talk" you through the process.

    Have fun,
     
  6. jroyse

    jroyse Member

    Thanks!! Thats what I needed to hear. Went thru the steps today. Seems like I've done this a hundred times now. Looks like it may work this time but the pedal chain is to short now, but thats an easy fix. I'll let you know how this turns out.

    Many thanks to you and everybody for the help.
    Jim
     
  7. jbcruisin

    jbcruisin Member

    You can get 1/2 links & master links for the pedal chain. Some of my bike's pedal chains have 1/2 links in them
     
  8. jroyse

    jroyse Member

    Went thru the procedure at least 3 more times, step by step. Results are always the same. Belts slip too much to pedal start the bike so I start it on my home stand. Then it stalls when I take off the stand due to belt drag. When I get a helper to man the throttle while I get the bike on the ground it wants to take off again due to belt drag. So I run and jump on and all is fine till I have to stop or it stalls now I'm done cause it won't re-start - belt slips. also slips going up hill.
    I appreciate all the help but nothing is working. I just don't get how it can be so difficult to do this. I just pulled the transmission out of my car with no problem but can't fix a bike. This just isn't right.
    Jim
     
  9. jroyse

    jroyse Member

    After many more tweaks and belt adjustments I'm getting real close, thanks to your well explained process. Good grief, it just takes a lot of trial and error work. I put the front belt bolt on adjuster back on and somehow got things pretty close. From there it a series of tweaks to the rear belt. I now can start and ride the bike with no slippage but still have some problems at idle. I have been loosening the rear very, very slightly and have gotten pretty close. A few more and I hope to cure the idle.
    Can't thank you and everybody enough for all the help. I was just about ready to sell the bike.
    Jim :)
     
  10. jbcruisin

    jbcruisin Member

    My 99 Whizzer has an automatic clutch. It originally came with the manual & I always had to rev it a little when the clutch was disengaged to keep it running.
     
  11. jroyse

    jroyse Member

    whizzer

    Yep, thats where I'm at now. I keep tweaking the rear belt and the idle speed. Finally I have gotten it to the point I can at least ride it. Working on and off this has taken me nearly all summer. I must get smarter or faster somehow.
     
  12. Quenton Guenther

    Quenton Guenther Motored Bikes Sponsor

    If all else fails you can use the belt tensioner kit, or do as many have and convert to the automatic clutch.

    The tension kit makes the system work better but shortens front belt life.

    Have fun,
     
  13. jroyse

    jroyse Member

    I did end up using the tensioner and after some very minute tweaking with it and the rear axle I am very close. As I stated above at least now I can ride the bike. I never would have guessed it would be this hard to get things right. I was ready to list the bike back on craigslist but thanks to this forum I'm riding once again.
    Thanks to you and all for the help.
    Jim
     
  14. Quenton Guenther

    Quenton Guenther Motored Bikes Sponsor

    Fantastic!

    Thrilled you almost have it working 100%. Because of supply & demand, I am considering making a working version of the automatic clutch. I hope to use the hub, shoes, spring, shoe mounting plate from Max Torque and have the pulleys, hubs, and mounting hardware made in the USA. This way it will work and parts would be easily available if ever needed.

    Have fun,
     
  15. jbcruisin

    jbcruisin Member

    I'll help test that one :)
     
  16. jroyse

    jroyse Member

    One year and a few months later and I'm still fighting this @#$%& belt adjustment. I came real close once but it still slipped while under power and barely stayed running when stopped. I'm making one last attempt and if I can't get it its going to get sold. I have went thru Guenther's procedure over and over. Don't see what I'm missing. Now I have the front belt where I think it should be but the rear belt is way loose. Wheel is pulled back as far as it will go. Its a "AX 62" belt. Looks to be to long. Somebody out there must have an answer for this. I also have a 1948 Whizzer - clutch works perfect.
    Thanks now for any help.
    Jim
     
  17. jbcruisin

    jbcruisin Member

    An auto clutch will end your problems but will cost quite a bit. Quenton designed one & is selling it now. Here's the link: http://www.motoredbikes.com/showthread.php?42315-New-Whizzer-Clutches-Coming&p=374384#post374384
     
  18. jroyse

    jroyse Member

    continued belt adjustment

    I know thats a great idea but I don't want to put any more money into this bike. Its kind of a rat bike as it is. I bought it as a bare bones bike on craigslist. Somebody stripped everything but the headlight and speedo off. There's no battery, ignition switch, horn, reflectors, tail light nothing. Plus they cut all the wiring out. so its not a bike to put money into but still would be fun to ride if I can SOLVE THIS CLUTCH PROBLEM!! Sorry could help myself.

    Jim
     
  19. Quenton Guenther

    Quenton Guenther Motored Bikes Sponsor

    The reason your vintage version works so well is because of design. When they copied it for the new edition motors, they didn't maintain the same distance and angle. The vintage motor used an AX26 whereas the new edition motors used a cheap 4L290 FHP belt but is 1" longer than the original and changes over to an AX27. Even replacing the 4L290 with the AX27 often won't work, because the clutch lever doesn't have enough PULL!!!!!. The vintage clutch handle has a lot of PULL and moves the clutch arm enough to engage and dis-engage the primary belt.

    Although I can adjust the clutch to make them work OK, never can I achieve the same level as the vintage version. Remember the vintage Whizzer clutch handle had a lot more PULL, and could loosen and tighten the front belt completely, whereas it is impossible to do the same with the new edition motors.

    The reason the automatic clutch is so popular is mainly because the manual in next to impossible to adjust correctly.


    You could replace the rear belt with a 1" smaller version, and that would cure the loose rear belt, but still won't fix the short range of the front belt tension. If you get the front adjusted to allow you to stop without killing the motor, then it will slip at high speeds. If you make it tight enough to connect at high speeds, you won't be able to stop without killing the motor [not enough clutch lever PULL!!!!].

    If you have the time, and are convinced to make it work, then try using a 15 series belt. The 15 series belt is thinner and will release easier at the stop sign ,and can still pull at high speeds. The smaller 15 series will help compensate for the short clutch handle pull.

    I would suggest trying a 15280 [15/32" X 28"], however belt companies vary greatly and it may need a shorter version #15275 [15/32" X 27.5"]. The thinner belt will need to be shorter than the original because it sits lower in the pulleys. Your best chance of making it work well enough to ride is by trying the thinner series belt or buy an automatic clutch.

    Have fun,
     
  20. jroyse

    jroyse Member

    Thanks for the response. I have re-set all the belts again and finally got both belts tight with clutch released. Could not get enough lever pull to release so I am now making modifications to the lever itself to get a longer stroke from it. I think it can be done and will work. When I get results I'll try to post it.

    Thanks again for all the help
    Jim
     
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