2 stroke bike options?

Like I said, 80's through mid 90's bikes are the "thang", I really like the old Raleigh's with the wrap around brazing, strong strong strong!

I had a Japanese made Raleigh touring bike from 83 that I drunkenly crashed into the back of a parked semi doing about 20mph. The fork was bent badly but the frame held perfectly. The bike was a mess after that but it still made it the three miles home. I later found that the bottom headset bearing had ovaled itself and could not be repaired unfortunately. Still a happier ending then when my StumpJumper went head on with a VW Golf.
 
Might try to find another Dyno bike on Craigslist. Craigslist is how I came across my Dyno, so who knows maybe I'll get lucky there again. The Dyno 4 stroke I ride around on feels very sturdy and hasn't let me down yet and I put at least 75 miles on her and she runs great. Problem is older (late 90's early 2000's) Dyno cruisers are hard to find these days but I know for sure they can fit a 2 stroke and they are built like a tank.
 
The best Mountain bikes are 80's and early 90's steel because they have the smaller diameter, thicker tubing. Better for clamping in-frame motors on. You want the plain Hi-ten steel, these are the cheapest bikes in the LBS catalogs.
(Trek, Giant, Schwinn etc)

Plain Gage Chrome-Moly is next but is harder to weld than Hi-ten steel.

Butted Chrome-Moly is used on lighter more expensive bikes. The tubing is thinner and weaker in the middle. Not the best.
 
The best Mountain bikes are 80's and early 90's steel because they have the smaller diameter, thicker tubing. Better for clamping in-frame motors on. You want the plain Hi-ten steel, these are the cheapest bikes in the LBS catalogs.
(Trek, Giant, Schwinn etc)
I disagree, you are assuming everybody does "in-frame" builds, I abhor the "in-frame", they look horrible to me (mini motorcycle look), and they are inefficent.The bikes from the 80' 90's are better , because they're better all around, the components are better, it's a proven fact that even the cups/cones in new production bikes are thin, and made from crap metal.An old Bridgestone MTB was based on the 10 speed, just beefed up, so when you really get on the pedals, your knees are VERY close together, the further you splay your legs, the less efficent pedaling.I know most here don't pedal much, but I consider them missing the point of MAB's and are doing a moped, while calling it an MAB.
Rack mount MAB's supports are placed where they're supposed to be, on the dropouts braze-on's, not in the middle of the diamond, you can go very light steel and it will be fine on a rack mount.
 
Hi Troyg

All very good and valid points.

The weight saved by going Double butted vs. Straight gauged Chrome-Moly steel is about 1 lb.
Even with a rack mount, all 230 lbs of me would pick the stiffer frame with 20% more Chrome-Moly steel.
 
I disagree, you are assuming everybody does "in-frame" builds, I abhor the "in-frame"
they look horrible to me (mini motorcycle look), and they are inefficent.
Looks are in the eye of the beholder, build what looks good to you.
As for efficiency, you have me at a loss.
Center mounts are as efficient as anything else and considerably more than any 'tire rubber' friction.

... so when you really get on the pedals, your knees are VERY close together, the further you splay your legs, the less efficent pedaling.
I know most here don't pedal much, but I consider them missing the point of MAB's and are doing a moped, while calling it an MAB.
On a 4-stroke with wider crank arms sure, but not a 2-stroke, everything fits inside the pedals and you can knock you knees together all you want.
Or, just tuck in and get low and fly without pedaling at all ;-}

Rack mount MAB's supports are placed where they're supposed to be, on the dropouts braze-on's, not in the middle of the diamond, you can go very light steel and it will be fine on a rack mount.
We can agree to disagree on many things about rack over center mount and leave it that troy as everything has it's own system for 'best use' and a rack can be the only last/best option.
 
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Looks are in the eye of the beholder, build what looks good to you.
As for efficiency, you have me at a loss.
Center mounts are as efficient as anything else and considerably more than any 'tire rubber' friction.


On a 4-stroke with wider crank arms sure, but not a 2-stroke, everything fits inside the pedals and you can knock you knees together all you want.
Or, just tuck in and get low and fly without pedaling at all ;-}


We can agree to disagree on many things about rack over center mount and leave it that troy as everything has it's own system for 'best use' and a rack can be the only last/best option.
I thought it was pretty clear in the reply, that it was my "opinion" on the "looks" thing.Try all you want, but the complexity and weight of a frame mount will never meet a GEBE in efficiency, fuel is spent in the amount of weight, wind, and drive drag & breaking initial inertia.How much does a frame-mount weigh (all up) to a GEBE, my guess is at least a couple pounds difference.I also consider range part of efficiency, I can easily mount a gallon tank in the diamond with my rack mount, which gives me right at 180 miles range no filling.The ability to swap the whole system to another bike in about 30 minutes I also consider superior to frame mounts.The amount of oil mixed in (most) frame mounts compared to a 50:1 quality engine is also a form of inefficiency,...no?As far as the last/best that's opinion also.To each their own, but I've read and read, it's disproportionate, the amount of problems/tinkering, relating frame-mounts compared to rack mounts, that is the definition of inefficiency, time is the most precious resource.Rack mounts are pretty much set and forget.To each their own, cheap ain't ever more affordable, as you end up spending more than a quality rack set up would run by going CG.My take, an informed opinion, nothing else.
 
Here's some more useful facts, as to why a GEBE will always be more efficient than a frame-mount.Considering the GEBE doesn't even have the 85lbs tension, I'm guessing you'd know how much "wattage" these motors/engines run and it's beyond 208 watts as a rule.You have vast knowledge with frame-mount, I have vast knowledge with rack-mount, the main difference with our opinions is,... no salesman angle from me.

http://www.bikeradar.com/us/road/news/article/chain-or-belt-drive-which-is-faster-36074/
http://www.friction-facts.com/
"The unexpected portion of the results becomes apparent when the efficiency of the belt itself is analyzed in an apples-to-apples tension comparison to the chain, without preload," Smith said. 'These results show the belt becomes more efficient above 208 watts."
 
As you get up in displacement, power weight ratio is less of an argument. The 79cc predator weighs 16lbs naked, about the same as a 66cc two stroke and with a few simple changes makes about twice the power. Plus the whole mini motorcycle thing, you do realize the first motorcycles pretty much were mab's? I guess you would really hate my bike, because I'm actually building it to look like a classic motorcycle. Club bars, big gas tank, mini cafe seat (15" long), and a 79cc predator mounted vertically mid-frame. Will kick a gebe's ass unless the gebe has been modified to make more power. All I've done is remove the governor, add a high flow exhaust and a 19mm carburetor. The engine is 3hp stock, should make about 4 now. Now if you hopped that gebe up to say 5 or 6 hp, you might have me. But there are people doing almost 50 with these engines. Can a gebe do 50? I geared my bike much lower, mine will do about 30 because I want better acceleration and climbing. Friction losses account for about a 5% power loss in chain drive systems. So 4hp, I'm losing 0.2hp. Not that big a deal. Any motorized bicycle is going to fight wind drag.
 
As you get up in displacement, power weight ratio is less of an argument. The 79cc predator weighs 16lbs naked, about the same as a 66cc two stroke and with a few simple changes makes about twice the power. Plus the whole mini motorcycle thing, you do realize the first motorcycles pretty much were mab's? I guess you would really hate my bike, because I'm actually building it to look like a classic motorcycle. Club bars, big gas tank, mini cafe seat (15" long), and a 79cc predator mounted vertically mid-frame. Will kick a gebe's ass unless the gebe has been modified to make more power. All I've done is remove the governor, add a high flow exhaust and a 19mm carburetor. The engine is 3hp stock, should make about 4 now. Now if you hopped that gebe up to say 5 or 6 hp, you might have me. But there are people doing almost 50 with these engines. Can a gebe do 50? I geared my bike much lower, mine will do about 30 because I want better acceleration and climbing. Friction losses account for about a 5% power loss in chain drive systems. So 4hp, I'm losing 0.2hp. Not that big a deal. Any motorized bicycle is going to fight wind drag.
I've had this debate with another member, but OK.Yes, I'm 100% fully versed in the history of motorcycles, do YOU understand that the first motors put on a bike were super heavy?Where else COULD they put the engine?Using antiquated utilities for a modern comparison is flawed debating.you're taliking about power, I'm talking about efficient usage of power, there is a HUGE difference.Yes you can make a brick fly, if you use enough horsepower, it's still a flying brick.My biggest engine is a 48cc, yes with the right gearing and pedaling up I could easily do 50.How much does your engine and trans weigh off the bike, mine comes in at 14lbs, all that weight is below my a.s.s. so you can't really tell it's there.Can you lift your bike over your head? If not you're in motorcycle territory, IMO.How often do you pedal, just to get going then "vroom vroom vroom" only? That's moped territory.Just saying, GEBE is more efficient, bottom line.
 
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